Syros, Greece: From stop over to revelation

We all have seen the many pictures of Greek islands, dominated by the ever present whitewashed stone houses and orthodox chapels with their brilliant blue roofs and white trims. By contrast, Ermoupolis looks majestic. Three and four story buildings climb up the hillside, topped with a rather cathedral-like church on each side.

A New Greek Island

Getting off the ferry and taking a closer look, you see what it's all about. To understand why Syros and the capital Ermoupolis is so very different you need to know a bit about the historical background.

Whereas the emphasis on many Greek islands is on the distant past, Syros' particularity lies in recent history. Ermoupolis is often describes as a Greek miracle because the city was only founded in 1821, named in 1826 and developed into a wealthy, thriving center of commerce and culture within the short time span of approx. 75 years.

This came about because Syros became a safe haven for the many refugees who found a new home and shelter on the island following the wars and upheavals of the 19th and early 20th century.

These refugees who came from other islands as well as Asia Minor, were by no means poor, they were professionals, artists, traders, merchants, craftsmen and above all, ship builders. They brought with them their skills and wealth and made Ermoupolis into a center of trade and culture and the island into the capital of the Greek district of the Northern Cylades.

Their sophistication is the reason why you can admire so many excellent neo classical buildings when you start your walk along the water from, turning right after getting off the ferry dock.

Exploring

The town houses, many of which are today hotels like the wonderful Diogenis Hotel, have often been commissioned by European architects.

After a few hundred meters along the promenade, you can turn left, walk up Eleftheriou Venezelou and reach Miaouli Square to admire the town hall, build by Austrian architect Ernst Ziller and one of the most imposing buildings of the island.

Another one is the Apollon Theatre although it's in need of restoration. The opening of the theatre was the pride and joy of the island, a unique institution which attracted famous performers not only from Greece but also from abroad.

Syros and its citizens can also lay claim to have been among the first in the whole of Greece to have established the following industries and institutions: steam ship company, chamber of commerce, ship building, high schools and colleges and the famous social club 'Hellas' to name but a few. An industrial museum as advertised on one of the boats moored in port, bears witness to this past.

In fact the people of Syros love dance, music, opera, performances and fashion. In the early 20th century the ladies of Ermopulis were considered the most elegant in Greece.

I had the good fortune to have arrived on a Saturday afternoon and could experience first hand that this jolly lifestyle is alive and thriving to this day.

Doing the Promenade

After a wonderful meal in one of the many restaurants along the promenade I resumed my walk. As darkness fell, the coast road was closed to traffic and life music was set up in front of some cafes. People, all beautifully turned out and made up for a night on the tiles, streamed in and promenaded up and down, stopping to great their friends and neighbours, enjoying an ouzo and listening to the music.

Due to the fact that this island is not one of your typical Greek island tour destinations, few tourists were around and a stop in Syros gives you the chance to observe and participate in purely Greek entertainment at its best.

Other places to visit during daylight are the Ajios Nikolaos church with its beautiful blue cupola and the bell tower and of course, if you are up to it, climb the 900 steps (!!) to Ano Syros which was once built to escape the never ending pirate attacks which plagued the island.

Syros specialities are loukoumia and thyme honey which are offered in many quaint shops along the waterfront and also on the Piatsa of Ano Syros which are open till late.

Of course, there is more to the island than just the capital. Inland in sheltered valleys farms and green houses are to be found which produce the best vegetables which are exported to the rest of Greece and beyond.

Getting There
You can book several island tours which are round trips, i.e.: south of Ermoupoli to Vari, Achladia and Megas, or south west to Pagos and Galissas or north to Chalandriani. Each tour provides new aspects of this island and information and booking can easily be arranged in one of the many agencies which are to be found near the ferry dock.

I went on the south trip the next day, but you can also hire a car and drive around yourself.

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