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Tourism PEI / John Sylvester

Prince Edward Island, Canada: Big Pleasures in a Small Package

Charlottetown, the capital of Prince Edward Island, is a welcoming harbor town on the island that is Canada's smallest province. It also presents the perfect introduction to the community, the island, and its place in Canada's history.

Soon after arriving by car across a 9-mile bridge, by plane or by ferry, settle in to your exquisite room at The Great George inn before heading over to Founder's Hall to learn all about the history of Prince Edward Island (or PEI as it is sometimes called). Don the requisite headsets and make your way through the whimsically designed and very informative and funny presentation. Laughter truly does help history come alive and be remembered.

Then take a walking tour through town with one of the Ladies and Fathers of the Confederation guides who will be all decked out in turn-of-the-century garb. You'll learn that PEI, once a very reluctant joiner of the confederation that is Canada, is now proud to proclaim its place as the Birthplace of Canada.

Charlottetown is also quite rightly proud of its oysters and other shellfish. Each year for a weekend in September thousands flock to the PEI International Shellfish Festival to gorge on clams, oysters, lobster, and seafood chowder. Cooking demonstrations, competitions, and local music by renowned artists such as Richard Wood all take place under a big tent. Cheer for your favorite at the big oyster shuck-off! See what's new at Paderno the cookware manufacturer, and sponsor of the event,considered by many chefs to be the best in the world.

The shellfish festival is the 10-year-old brainchild of Liam Dolan whose nearby Olde Dublin Pub, with live music every night in summer, has a warm, welcoming environment and a large selection of draught beers. The pub attracts a large melting pot of fun-loving pub-goers. Right downstairs from the Olde Dublin pub is Liam Dolan's sedate and elegant restaurant, the Claddagh Room, which features delicious foods such as Colville Bay Oysters prepared three ways (natural, Rockefeller, and fruit salsa) and succulent lamb.

Tourism PEI / John Sylvester If you love shellfish but not the frenzy of a festival, another great spot for seafood in Charlottetown is Lobster on the Wharf. Particularly commendable are the soft shell clam steamers, some of the world's finest Malpeque oysters and, of course, the freshest sweet lobster north of Maine.

Food lovers who are in town on Wednesdays and Saturdays should make their way up the road to the farmer's market, which brings together people of all ages in a community of happy consumption. If you have breakfast at Steve and Deb's kiosk in the market, you'll be talking about it for weeks. You'll want to savor whatever you order--omelets prepared with fresh veggies and brown eggs and served with potato pancakes and traditional beans, or homemade breads with local marmalades and jams. One kiosk at the very end of the aisle specializes in coffee, and it's super.

The most romantic dinner for two can be had at the Off Broadway Restaurant specializing in steak, seafood, crepes, and homemade desserts and the 42nd Street Lounge right upstairs from the restaurant. Cozy little booths for two, low lighting, delicious foods, and an extensive wine menu, all create the mood for an engagement or romantic occasion.

For a short excursion away from Charlottetown, a half hour scenic trip along Blue Heron Drive will bring you to Victoria by the Sea, a small working port with a few small streets of lovely craft and antique shops, as well as the world's smallest candle shop.

Other pleasures of Prince Edward Island include a visit to Prince Edward Island National Park with a visit first to the Greenwich Interpretation Centre which provides an excellent opportunity to learn about one of Canada's unique ecosystems. Discover the rare sand dune formations and other fascinating features protected by Parks Canada at Greenwich by exploring over 20 interactive exhibits.

Back in Charlottetown you can take in live traditional fiddle music and step dancing at the Friday Night Ceilidh at the Benevolent Irish Society Hall. When you're sated and tired and have seen the beautiful harbor and the rest of the island, you'll be happy that your room is right there at the best location -- in the center of downtown Charlottetown at The Great George, which is actually a collection of inns, all renovated and many featuring fireplaces and jacuzzis, claw foot tubs and comfortable beds.


Sheree Bykofsky is a literary agent and freelance travel writer with expertise in luxury vacations, golf, spas and romantic places. A member of ASJA, NATJA, and Authors' Guild, Ms. Bykofsky is the author, co-author and editor of more than twenty books including The Best Places to Kiss in and Around New York City; The 52 Most Romantic Dates in and Around New York City; The Complete Idiot's Guide to Getting Published; The Downtown Girl's Guide to Wine and Put Your House On a Diet. She is an adjunct professor of publishing at NYU, has appeared on many TV and radio programs and is a widely acclaimed speaker.

Photos courtesy of Tourism PEI / John Sylvester

© 2005