Click for OffbeatTravel home
Photos by Brett Hamlin
Dawn in Morocco
Silence. Total silence.
It was still dark in Agadir as the camel I was riding loped through the sand drifts, rocking me like a cradle. The sky began to brighten, giving me a preview of the vast Sahara Desert that stretched like an ocean into infinity. We were here to watch the sunrise.

Stopping at the camel park, we dismounted our camels to walk up the steep sand dune. Dismounting can be a bit unnerving. My camel driver, Abdul, told my camel (also named Abdul) to sit. As the camel folded his long bony legs beneath him, I descended six stories and pitched forward with a yelp. Grabbing his mane, I lurched backward as he settled down and I tumbled about 4 feet. Quickly brushing off the sand, I followed my guide to the crest of the dune that loomed before us. Abdul was the quintessential Lawrence of Arabia: dark and handsome with his royal blue caftan billowing around him.

We sat down on a ridge of sand perched on the edge of the world. I dug my toes into the soft, orange sand and waited for the sun to rise. It didn't. Fog rolled over the desert blocking the sunrise and the view of Algeria. The effect was surreal. Abdul and I watched the mist rise and talked of family, our different lifestyles and backgrounds. We didn't talk politics; we just talked people. As we rose to walk back to where the camels were parked, Abdul asked if I wanted to go for a ride. “Sure”, I said as he grabbed my ankles sending me sliding down a steep sand dune. The speed was slower than snow, but nearly as much fun. As we parted, he invited me to stay with his family in a nearby oasis and we exchanged e-mail addresses.

Mysterious Mystical Morocco
Our group was here to visit the seven Imperial Cities: Casablanca, Marrakesh, Meknes, Agadir, Rabat and Fez. A progressive thinker, 39-year-old King Mohammed VI has encouraged tourism and promotes cultural expansion.

Its location at the northern tip of the continent has made Morocco the "welcome mat" for all of North Africa. Kissed by the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, it is the perfect vacation destination between Europe and Africa. The traveler encounters a multicultural legacy rich with history, architecture, cuisine and fashion that is modern Morocco.

Most tourists in search of the real thing, a preserved, authentic culture, find it in Morocco. For thousands of years, the Berbers intermingled with Phoenicians, Arabs, Byzantines and Portuguese creating an enticing cultural potpourri. With this diversity came skilled craftsmen producing pottery, carpets, mosaics, woodcrafts, and leather goods that are unique to Morocco. The multicultural influence is also seen in Moorish architecture and in the delicious Moroccan cuisine.

Marrakesh
Beginning in Marrakesh, the call to prayer is heard across the city over loud-speakers. As the sun sets, the square in front of the souk comes alive like a circus with musicians, belly dancers, snake charmers, fortune tellers, storytellers, healers and snake oil vendors among a variety of entertainers flaunting their talents. The bustle and commotion in the narrow passages entice you into the constricted alleys of the souk. The aromas of spices, orange flower and rose extract, fill your nose while the hammering of metal and the whir of the pottery wheels mingle with shouts and music. You could get jostled by a whinnying donkey or a loud passing motorcycle.

The lure of the souk can be overwhelming. Leather goods are available in a myriad of products from jeweled slippers to a fine attaché case. You'll find luxurious handmade Berber carpets, sparkling silver, and charming girls who will happily paint orange henna designs on your hands. Exquisite caftans, richly embroidered with gold thread, are billowy and extremely comfortable in hot climates. Intricately designed pottery, gleaming brassware, antique jewelry, stalls display jewel-encrusted daggers. Your sensory circuit is supercharged as you move on, not wanting to miss a moment. The souk is such a puzzling, entangled labyrinth that you may never find your way out. A great way to move about is to hire an official guide that is certified by the tourism bureau.

Fantasia
As you travel out of the city, passing small Berber villages beneath the Atlas Mountains, life gets quieter and slower. Little boys lead donkeys laden with goods to sell. Not far away is the fabulous Fantasia, a cultural celebration of ancient Morocco. Resembling a Moroccan Epcot, white robed singers dance as visitors walk past them, sometimes joining in the fun. Dining in an open-air Moorish arena, you are served in traditional Moroccan style; the food is hearty and substantial including delicious lamb stew with prunes and couscous. The heart-stopping finale of Fantasia is the charge, when waves of costumed warriors on horseback ride at a high-speed gallop waving their sabers high above their heads.

Fez
The spiritual and cultural capital of Morroco, Fez showcases splendid mosques and palaces with court-yards made of marble and onyx. The talented Andalousian Arabs crafted woodwork into their buildings as well as engraved bronze, sculpted plaster and carvings. Imposing doors and Moorish archways greet the visitors who can peek through open doorways to glimpse the grandeur inside.

Traveling out of the city there are more sights to see such as the Dar el-Makhzen and the Palais Jamai. Elaborately costumed sentries guard the golden doors to Dar el-Makhzen, the royal palace, but the guards are quite friendly and will pose for photos. You can even stay at a real palace at the Palais Jamai. Built in 1879, the palace is now a Sofitel Hotel, surrounded by a glorious Andalousian garden giving the palace a very serene and peaceful feeling.

The Fez souk is even more spread out than the souk in Marrakesh, but not quite as frenetic. If you missed an item that you wanted to buy in Marrakesh, most likely, you can find it in Fez. Try and find your way to the dyers, where you will see brightly colored hanks of yarn dangling from hooks. Grab a few snacks along the way, such as sweet honeycakes or a lamb kabab.

There are also factories to visit in Fez such as the mosaic factory where you can design your own hand-made mosaic pattern on wrought iron tables; although shipping does cost a slight fortune. At the pottery factory, it is fascinating to observe the potter's wheel spin a hunk of clay, watching the piece take shape so easily in the hands of an expert.

Rabat
Rabat has been the capital since the 12th century. It is also the royal city, home to His Majesty Mohammed VI and his wife. Rabat is a more modern city with the largest university in the country. Theatres, bookstores and an abundance of small shops fill the city with culture.

Passing several kasbahs, meaning walled city, the traveler will see beautiful wild roses, almond trees and olive groves. Beginning in Ourzazate, follow the trail of the kasbahs which will lead you through the Wadis (valleys) of Dra, Dades and Ziz.

For an unforgettable experience, travel by camel into the silence of the Sahara Desert, wading through a sea of infinite orange sand.

All of Morocco's Imperial Cities are vibrantly filled with history and color. Each city harbors its own mysteries and secrets to discover including many fine restaurants with opulent décor serving an abundance of fresh fish and meats. In addition to the thrill of the souks, there are many boutique shops to explore as well. Wherever you travel throughout Morocco, you will enjoy gracious hospitality, so don't be surprised if a stranger invites you to his home to meet the family and serves you warm mint tea; it's just their way of saying "Welcome".

For further information
Moroccan Board of Tourism: 212-557-2520
www.Tourism-in-Morocco.com
www.Travel-In-Morocco.com
www.TourismeMarocain.com for information in French



Karen Hamlin, an award-winning journalist, is a native New Englander with a few years in Hawaii, California, New York and Ohio along the way. She is the travel editor for City & Suburban Magazine, published quarterly with a circulation of 400,000 nationally. Among Karen’s professional interests are mature travel, cruises, beaches and cultural/historical destinations. Karen is a member of the North American Travel Journalists Association, who have recently awarded her first prize in their Destination Travel - International division for this article. She is also a member of the International Food and Travel Writers Association. Email her at:TravelingKH@yahoo.com

Photos by Brett Hamlin