There are no gates as you drive into Historic Deerfield. No guards, no signs, no boundaries. There's nothing to tell you that you have stepped back over 300 years except the houses and the quiet. And, halfway through the district, a sign announcing the Information Center. That's part of the charm of Historic Deerfield, it feels as if you happened upon it, as if by chance.

The illusion isn't perfect. There are signs of modern life. Deerfield Academy is part of the town's history and is still an active school with students and new academic buildings. There are cars driving by -- Deerfield is an actual village with working farms and growing families who coexist with the 14 houses dating from 1720 to 1872. Between the houses and museums, there are more than 18,000 objects made or used in America from 1650 to 1900.

Deerfield was settled by English farmers in 1669 and today the whole district of 1000 acres is a National Historic Landmark of farmlands and housing in the valley between the Deerfield and Connecticut Rivers. We sometimes romanticize life in "simpler times." But there was little romance in the lives of the English colonists. Life was hard, and only gradually became easier. In addition, there were raids by the French and Indians. One such raid, in 1704, resulted in the death of 48 settlers with over 100 residents marched off to captivity in Canada.

Seeing Historic Deerfield
Pick up a map and information at the Hall Tavern Information Center and you're ready to go. During the off-season when tourists are scarce it's easier to feel the history, but not all the houses are open. Summer, of course, brings a full schedule, but more visitors. Even with the reduced off-season schedule, there is enough to see to satisfy almost any historian. If their walking tour is available, make that a must-see. But if not, use a copy of Walking Tour of Deerfield to create your own.

The key places to see are the Hinsdale and Anna Williams House and the Wells-Thorn House. Make time also to see the Frary House and Barnard Tavern as well as take a walk through the fields towards the Albany Post Burial Ground.

Wells-Thorn House
The Wells-Thorn House itself was built between 1720 and 1751 in two phases. The first part was an unpainted L, later a front was added to face the street and it was painted a surprising sky blue. The choice of color was not whimsy, it was one the earlier ways of demonstrating high status. Few folks could afford that kind and color paint.

The story behind the house (and its color) is fascinating, but the house is made special by the treatment of the rooms, capturing and encapsulating the changes in the way residents lived from the early 1700s to the 1850s. Each room in the house actually depicts a different time frame, giving visitors a literal walk-through of life over a span of 150 years. Visitors start in the dark bottom room in which the only light and heat came from the cooking fire, and beds consisted of sacks thrown atop planks (which also doubled as a table). Standing in that stripped down room, you can't help feel the hardness of life. As the tour progresses, the rooms become brighter, walls are papered, floors have rugs, and slowly life becomes easier.

Frary House
The Frary House, constructed in the mid-1700s, is filled with New England antiques, arts and crafts needlework and more. The story behind its rescue from oblivion is the highlight of the tour. Attached to the house is Barnard Tavern, which was one of the centers of the village (which actually had at least two taverns frequented by people of like political minds). This was the beginnings of the Revolutionary Period and the residents of Deerfield were not unanimous in their political leanings. It's easy to see why people enjoyed frequenting these establishments. Taverns were warm and welcoming places which served alcoholic beverages as well as conversation and companionship. The tavern also has an upper story for large gatherings that would be perfect even today.

Hinsdale and Anna Williams
Hinsdale and Anna Williams House shows the way the rich and influential lived. Originally built in the mid-18th century, this large and beautifully furnished Federal-style house was remodeled around 1817. Williams was a landowner and farmer and his house features the some original and reproduced wallpapers, a cook stove and even a washing machine.

Albany Road Burying Ground
Part of living is the burial of the dead, and Deerfield, too, had its cemetery. The stones date back from the 1690s to the early 1800s although the site may have been a Native American burial grounds at an earlier time.

Museums and Collections
Although many items are found within the houses, there are several special collections housed in separate buildings. The Henry N. Flynt Silver & Metalware Collection and the Helen G. Flynt Textile Museum contain items of silver and pewter as well as antique needlework, and clothing. There's also the Flynt Center of Early New England Life opened in 1998 with changing exhibits.

The Renaissance of Historic Deerfield
The renaissance of Deerfield started with Henry and Helen Flynt of Greenwich, Connecticut. In 1936 they enrolled their son in the Deerfield Academy. The Flynts were captivated by the people, and the long street of old houses. Henry, who became chairman of the Academy's trustees, decided to buy the buildings for Academy housing. The Flynts also found themselves collecting the fragments of colonial culture and especially documented artifacts that recorded the history of the rural valley. They also maintained a house in the town, the Allen House, which can be toured and offers a glimpse into another part of the Deerfield history and the Flynts' collection of American decorative arts. The project grew and grew and the priceless of heritage of the community has been preserved for everyone to enjoy.

Historic Deerfield
413-774-5581
www.historic-deerfield.org

Places to Stay and to Eat
Deerfield Inn is a lovely restored historic inn which originally opened in 1884 on the grounds of Historic Deerfield. It has 23 individually decorated rooms in the main inn and a newer wing. It's charming, and not cheap. There's also a restaurant serving American cuisine and the Inn Tavern with a supper menu.

As an alternative, the Whately Inn (413-665-3044/800 WHATELY) is down the road in the town of Whately. Frankly, calling it a town is an exaggeration. But there is definitely an excellent restaurant and rooms above which are available for overnight guests. We opted for both dinner and the accommodations. The food was excellent and the reasonable priced entrees came with appetizer or soup, a salad, potato, vegetable, dessert and coffee. The room, with a private bath, was quite satisfactory. Plus, there was no checkout time to force us out of bed early in the morning.

Lovers of old diners will also want to visit Fillin' Station Diner between routes 5 & 10 in Whately (413-665-3696).

© 2002

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