Magnificent vistas begin along the vast shoreline of Howe Sound. Taking in picturesque Porteau Cove, famed stone monolith Stawamish Chief in Squamish and spectacular seventy-meter Brandy Wine Falls, our rhapsody intensifies as we ‘hang’ from the heritage open-air viewing car to ogle awesome Cheakamus Canyon.

From Alta Lake station, some fellow travelers will spend their day exploring Whistler’s alpine-style village, strolling to Lost Lake or taking a gondola up into mountain meadows before returning to North Vancouver.

Squamish Lil'wat Cultural Center

Settled at the Pinnacle, one of Whistler’s chateau-style hotels, we walk to the new Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Center. Within the huge glassy Squamish Longhouse and under the grassy dome of a Lil’wat Istken pit house, these two bands showcase their living cultures.

Our guide tells us that they have long shared their immense territories, which encompass Whistler. Even marriages, including her own, occur between members of these two proud bands. Looking at large photos appearing on banners, she tells us how medical herbs are gathered and mountain sheep hair collected for woven clothing.

Exhibits feature intricately carved canoes, dramatic ceremonial masks and fashionable clothing incorporating aboriginal motifs. A multi-media presentation illustrates a native lifestyle rich in dance, music, sports and traditional crafts. The cedar bark harvest is especially fascinating. Peeling off 6 to 7 meter strips from towering trees, brittle outer bark is separated from pliable inner bark, it’s rolled and hung to dry, then stored for a year before using it in basketry. The onsite cafe offers an intriguing menu of native foods.

Whistler Eco-Tours

Returning to the village through one of many creek-side parks, we enter its winding pedestrian mall. Trees, flamboyant flowers and artwork border arrays of freshly painted al fresco restaurants, boutiques and shops -- some selling souvenirs, others excursions including river rafting, zip-lining, nature hikes, rock climbing, kayaking and horseback riding. This first day sets our daily pattern for tasty meals, lingering at tables overlooking the busy main square, followed by leisurely strolls over to ‘Cows’ for moo-vel-ous ice cream.

Early next morning, we join Whistler Eco-Tour guide Robbie for a pedal-paddle expedition. Waivers signed, he provides bikes befitting our stature...and bottles of cold water. Initially, we roll along a meandering 2-½ kilometer paved forest trail to Alta Lake. Leaving bikes locked under some evergreens, we pick up paddles, life jackets and a canoe at dockside for a hearty paddle across the lake.

On the way Robbie points out what’s popularly known as the million-dollar view of snow-capped mountains, including Mt. Rupert, Easy Chair and Wedge. Pausing, we watch an osprey hovering above us, her nest is atop a nearby snag. On the far shore a great blue heron stands ready to spear a meal...and a reddish brown merganser mama and her brood preen on a cottage dock.

Beaching our canoe at Rainbow Park, we stretch our legs. The nearby bridge is created from curved lacquered branches. Robbie observes, “Steam trains brought honeymooners to this idyllic destination...and this, Bridge of Sighs!” Nearby stand the original small cabins of Whistler’s first resort. Old photos on their windows depict newlyweds happily experiencing outdoor adventures, just as we do today.

These romantic couples fished, hiked and canoed the same River of Golden Dreams that we enter at the reedy end of Alta Lake. Moving slowly through patches of yellow pond lilies under mellow sunny skies, this placid waterway conjures ‘golden dreams.’ Lofty cedars, firs and hemlocks soon line the shore, like green sentinels along the serpentine channel. Coming to a man-made log dam, we make a short portage and reboard. Often shifting our weight, we manage to rock ourselves over the shallowest of the shallows, carefully paddling through this trickle toward the main river.

Following tips on how to avoid capsizing while merging into the white water, we furiously apply a variety of strokes. The torrent pushes us sideways and under tree limbs; ducking, we avoid bumps and scratches, soon emerging back into bright sunlight. Our course now winds between rocky banks topped with briars of orange salmon berries, purple fireweed and wild pink roses. Traveling five kilometers of pristine serenity, we arrive near Green Lake’s shore.

Our shuttled bikes stand nearby, ready for action. Remounting, we proceed along this huge lake tinted like icy turquoise by glacier-ground rock flour. Skirting an adjacent golf course, we spin along a compact-gravel trail paralleling glacial Ferguson Creek. Stopping at a co-op green house, we learn that many of Whistlers’ leggy pedallers also have green thumbs. Continuing onto a paved road, we pass through the village suburbs, return to a trail, pass alongside a skateboard park, a bustling terra-formed bike park and return into town, where more pleasures awaited us. Ah, Whistler.

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