Captivating Sydney, Australia
“We wouldn’t have Sydney without Americans,” our guide, Brian, told my daughter Kristi and me, in the welcoming manner we quickly found characteristic of Aussies. America had been a convenient place for England to ship its undesirables as indentured servants – until the Revolution. With Captain Cook’s 1770 discovery of this port, another territory would be colonized, and shiploads of convicts sent to populate a remote area, a practice continuing until the mid-1800s.
Australia was on our must-see short list, so when a promotional fare was announced we snapped it up before it was gone. We’d have only nine days in Australia, including travel
– far too short to see a continent larger than the United States. We would focus on the greater Sydney area. We were not disappointed.
Seeing Sydney The Sydney Aquarium is one of the largest in the world. Its shark and manta ray tunnel, Great Barrier Reef exhibit, fairy penguins, seal sanctuary with underwater tunnels, and over 1100 animals should not be missed. It is open from 9am-10pm. We avoided daytime crowds by visiting in the evening, when most other attractions were closed. The adjacent Maritime Museum, with free entry, creatively depicts explorations and naval history. Families enjoy the playground in Tumbalong Park along with paddle boaters and bungee jumpers. We tourists opted for a free live didjeridoo show and the Aborigine shop at The Outback Experience. The public ferry runs from Darling Harbor to Circular Quay and the Rocks, passing Sydney Harbor Bridge and the Opera House. Captivating by day, it’s a visual delight by night when these structures are illuminated and the rainbow of lights from the skyscrapers reflects on the water. Some preferred the Harbourjet, with 270º spins, speeds up to 50mph, power brake stops, and more, all set to music…
The Harbor Bridge is more than a traffic conveyance. Some climb 200 steps for an exhibition and panoramic view of the harbor. The more adventurous can take the 3 ½ hour Bridgeclimb to the top of the bridge…Across the harbor, you can’t miss the huge brightly painted face at the entrance to newly restored Luna Park, adding color by day and sparkle by night. The original convict population settled in the historic Rocks area, named for the sandstone outcrop that defines the west coast of Sydney Cove. Now it is the site of historic tours, a variety of dining and shopping opportunities, and a weekend arts and crafts market. The Visitor Information Center there can recommend several walking tours, and we booked three. Brian, our daytime guide, brought to life the history of vice, crime, and depravation in this once wretched area of Sydney. The tour of historic pubs was an evening spent sampling various brews while reflecting on the area’s iniquitous past. The shackles in the basement of the Hero Pub are a reminder of the sailors who were lured in, given a Mickey Finn to drink, and shanghaied, awakening far out at sea. On the Rocks Ghost Tour, a nighttime visit may reveal more than a spectacular view of the city…
Outside the City
Sydney is a seaside city, with beaches in either direction. There’s a ferry ride to Manly Beach, with glimpses of the magnificent homes along the shore. We took bus #380 to Bondi Beach on a Sunday when the craft market was open. A highlight is walking the cliff walk from Bondi to Bronte Beach to see the dramatic rock formations and cliffs. We opted to walk the entire length from Bondi to Coogi. A delightful day can be had touring the wineries of the Hunter Valley, two hours from Sydney. Spend the afternoon sipping Semillon and Shiraz. Shopping opportunities abound, with woolen sweaters, Aboriginal art, opals, and sheepskin clothing topping the list. From the stalls at Paddy’s Market to the upscale shops at the exquisite arcade of the Queen Victoria Building, ambience is part of the experience. New foods are also part of the fun, and the Aussie food specialties that should be sampled are the Balmain Bug, a crayfish found in Sydney Harbour, flake, a shark meat, and barramundi, an aboriginal name for freshwater fish. Meat pies are popular, and kangaroo is considered as a low fat alternative. A popular dessert is lamingtons, sponge cakes covered in chocolate frosting and coconut. Sydney is one of the largest cities in the world, but by staying as we did in Darling Harbour, or opting for the Rocks area, nearly all the major attractions were within walking distance or a quick ride. We bought a week-long transportation pass and rode outside the city or hopped on public buses, trains, and ferries whenever we pleased, making the most of the time we had for our adventure. The rest of this vast and varied continent beckons--from lush tropical rainforests and the spectacular Great Barrier Reef, to the breathtaking rock and land formations on the horizon of the Outback, home of the indigenous Aboriginal people and the Dreamtime spirits. New adventures lay in wait -- sheep farms, eucalyptus forests, and amazing animals and plants that exist nowhere else in the world, but the time for this one had eroded. For now, we are scouting the next alluring deal to draw us back to this enchanting land down-under.
 For more information visit www.SydneyAustralia.com, and www.Sydney.com.au. An avid traveler with an interest in international relations, Linda Fasteson views travel as the best way to better understand the people and places around us. Linda is a member of NATJA and a contributor to Travelworld International Magazine, Offbeat Travel, So Go Now, Real Travel Adventures International, to CNHI newspapers, and is the Contributing Feature Writer on travel for the wire served Explore Magazine, a monthly magazine for active adults. © 2005
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The globally recognized showpiece of Sydney is the Opera House, begun in the 1950s. The design by Jørn Utzon reflects Sydney’s maritime history with Swedish tiles in the shape of billowing sails. Inside are five halls for performing arts, one for opera. Catch a performance in one of its theaters, or take the hour-long tour of this unique performing arts center. The Opera House grounds overlook the Royal Botanical Gardens; Sydney’s finest, with many specialty gardens, greenhouses, and lovely open areas.
We couldn’t leave Australia without seeing more Australian wildlife, and what better place to be assured a sighting than Taronga Zoo? Kangaroos and wallabys, koalas and kookaburras, penguins and a platypus, Tasmanian devils, wombats, dingos and bongos, shows and scheduled photo ops rounded out an afternoon.
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