A small lotus pond, surround by fragrant flowers and sculpted trees, reflects the images of three elegantly dressed Chinese women chatting idly in an
ornate pavilion. The midday sun shines down on the women, as they wait for their family to join them for a serene Sunday walk around Suzhou's magnificent
Master-Of-Nets Garden.
Suzhou
Suzhou, China, located in the Jiangsu Province, lies 46 miles to the east of Shanghai. Suzhou is known as the "Venice of the East" with ancient canals
laced throughout the city and neighboring towns. The city is also famous for its beautiful traditional Chinese gardens and silk production as well.
It is here that the Chinese refer to "Paradise on Earth," and visitors who explore this splendid city agree.
Classical Chinese gardens are serene by design; they incorporate a delicate balance of four main elements of rocks, water, plants, and architecture.
These elements create not only a beautiful garden but also a harmonious environment to experience. In Suzhou, one of the most lovely and interesting
gardens that express this philosophy is the Master-Of-Nets Garden. The garden was originally created in 1140 during the Song dynasty to reflect the
life of a solitary fisherman and evolved, reaching its current formation in the Qing dynasty. The garden is well preserved and maintained and is of
such significance that UNESCO listed it in 1997 on the World Heritage List.
Upon entering the garden, visitors are fascinated to see living quarters in concert with the gardens. These living spaces heralded such names as The Hall
of 10,000 Volumes (once a supreme library) and The Cloudy Mountain. These exquisite rooms are filled with mahogany furniture and art from the Qing
dynasty, as well as art expressing symbolism in the form of emblems, such as bats and cranes. In addition, a few of the buildings were receiving
rooms due to social status; one each for men and women. The women's receiving room is replete with intricate silk panels to block the wind and
opium beds where the women reclined on divans and rested while they awaited a summons for their presence.
Interspersed with the living quarters, the gardens take various forms with amazing limestone rocks created by nature and man; a 920-year-old tree that
ultimately leads the visitor through enchanting roofed walkways and pavilions. Located in the center garden, a small pond resides with lotus
leaves and a colorful structure that used to be an opera house that reflects in the mirrored water.
Today, people from around the globe visit the Master-Of-Nets Garden and artists come to paint the picturesque setting as well. These artists produce
incredible work (often captured on delicate silk) and are the best in Suzhou. Several artists display and sell their work in a small building located at
the end of the garden walk.
Suzhou is the silk capitol of China and a visit to the Silk Spinning Mill is a must to see how silk worms produce the fine thread that is spun into
gorgeous silk material. Guests are able to visit the factory and are provided with a marvelous tour that starts with a fascinating explanation of what
silk worms eat (Mulberry leaves) and how silk cocoons are harvested, sorted, washed and spun. These small worms are rather like a caterpillar and are
extremely soft to touch. The tour garners admiration for how difficult a process silk material requires to create and the artistry involved in dying
and weaving the fabric into complex patterns, scenes and designs.
At the conclusion of the tour, visitors are allowed to peruse the mill and purchase lovely silk sheets and comforters that are warmer than down feathers
and without allergens (much less expensive than U.S. prices!). The mill also proffers table and house linens, as well as the most gorgeous silk clothing
and scarves of pure sensuous fabric and classical design.
Tongli
After a visit to the silk mill, a tour of the small water town of Tongli will further your knowledge and appreciation of the region's water canals.
This small town is a mix of canals (49 bridges), shops, museums, gardens and restaurants that line the canals with outdoor seating. This charming town
is truly a small version of a Chinese Venice and the best way to experience it is to take a gondola ride through the canals. The peaceful ride will
carry visitors past cultural scenery, stone bridges, cobbled lanes and Ming-style homes.
After your ride, take a stroll down by the antique market stalls that sell everything from traditional Chinese musical instruments to stone Buddha
carvings, jewelry and numerous souvenirs.
While in Tongli, visit the tiny Marriage Museum. Kiosks and plaques provide a history of how Chinese families once arranged marriages. Display cases are
filled with wedding garments and personal items for a bride and groom and the tiny shoes that were worn when foot binding was prevalent in China.
Located a few blocks from the Marriage Museum is a lavish courtyard mansion that is now a museum, the former residence of Chen Qubing. The museum
displays the history and lifestyle of the family with ornate rooms and open wall spaces that looked over sculpted garden courtyards.
The Tuisi Garden, or the Retreat and Reflection Garden (Retreat Garden), is a small pond filled with koi fish is a beautiful place to stroll and relax.
These scenic gardens are painted often and are the embodiment of westerner's visions of beautiful Chinese landscaped ponds and gardens.
If You Go
Lodging: Garden Hotel in Suzhou. The Garden Hotel is incredibly beautiful
with numerous guest buildings surround by lush, sculpted gardens and colorful lights at night that highlight the gardens. The hotel prepares sumptuous
and large multi-cultural buffet breakfasts that are delicious.
A great way to visit Suzhou and Tongli is to go with a tour company that knows the city intimately and provides local guides who live and work in the
communities. Our top recommendation for the best tour and value is
China Spree.
China Spree not only provides excellent tours of Suzhou and Tongli, four-and five-star accommodations, knowledgeable guides, and excellent meals, but also
offers four price levels of tour packages, all excellent.
Patrice Raplee is an experienced travel photojournalist and editor of Travel Excursion and Seattle Spotlight for Positively Entertainment magazine. In addition, she writes a monthly travel column for the award-wining site Offbeat Travel and is a regular guest on Travel radio talk shows. She is a member of North American Travel Journalists Association (NATJA), International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association (IFWTWA) and the Recording Academy.
Her photographs and articles have appeared in numerous international publications, as well as NW newspapers such as the Seattle Times, the Stranger and Seattle Weekly. Patrice travels the globe to cover destinations that feature fascinating culture, art, culinary, history and soft adventure.
© 2011