From the moment I arrived, I realized I’d fallen in love. I discovered it was easy to love Steveston.

Technically, it’s part of the Island of Richmond, but don’t tell the folks that live there. It has a population of 26,000 but still has a small town attitude. Super friendly locals make you feel right at home in this historic fishing village.

History

At the beginning of the 1900s, Steveston was the busiest fishing port in the world, with 15 salmon canneries, six hotels and numerous saloons and gambling dens. That’s when 14 windjammers simultaneously loaded canned salmon for world markets. Up to 10,000 promenaded the boardwalks on a Saturday night when fishermen were in town. Drinking, gambling and prostitution was rife.

Steveston has evolved into a picturesque working village, home to Canada’s largest commercial fishing fleet and home base to more than 600 types of working boats that line the docks two, sometimes three, abreast.

On the day I visited, fishing boats were lined up at the dock drying their nets and unloading catches for sale. I was able to purchase shrimp that only hours earlier were swimming in the Pacific Ocean.

As I rambled Fisherman’s Wharf I breathed in the Maritime charm and the smell of the sea. The scenery was spectacular and when I closed my eyes, I thought I could hear the sounds of old-timers hauling in their catch. This was a place to chill out. I realized this is why I visited the West Coast of Canada.

Must See Sights

Let go of the urge to see everything because there’s plenty of things to do, but make time to visit the Gulf of Georgia Cannery National Historic Site. It’s within walking distance of the wharf. It was built in 1894 and operated until 1925 as one of the largest salmon canneries in British Columbia. Purchased in 1979 by the Federal Department of Fisheries it now operates, with the help of many volunteers, as a museum.

I felt the past was present here. I could visualize workers, most of them women with Japanese and Chinese heritage, toiling long days over the cutting and canning tables. Our guide told us it was not unusual for women to bring on their backs small children to work. No daycare then.

Murals of fish and trawlers cover the walls. Various shiny salmon cans, net floats and model boats help recreate the past. The distinctive smell of salmon still permeates the walls.

Next I headed to the heart of downtown and Steveston Museum. Surrounded by boardwalks, the former bank building reflects the community’s heritage as a busy commercial centre.

I took a self-guided tour of another National Heritage Site, The Britannia Heritage Shipyard. Restoration of the site is in the development stage. This was where in the late 1800's a 12-member Japanese family built gillnetters during the winters.

If you’re starting to get hungry, check out the nearby Diplomat Bakery. Chef Patissier, Gerald Stenson, originally from Ireland, had this to say I’ve worked all over the world but when me and my wife found Steveston I knew I had found home. Try the Irish Wheaton bread and be sure to buy a loaf while it’s there. Don’t hope to come back later in the day - when it’s gone, it’s gone.

Time stood still as I venture through the doors of the 1890's London Heritage Farm on the outskirts of Steveston. This restored historic home is situated on 5 acres overlooking the south arm of the Fraser River. When I arrived and looked out a second floor window the sun was just setting. I knew my night would be rich with sweet dreams.

---