Caves at Postojna

Our first stop was the caves at Postojna, easily one of the most impressive I’ve visited anywhere.

It turns out that Slovenia has an extensive belt of karst – the limestone stratum that produces the spectacular caves, and the Postojna system is the largest in Slovenia.

A visit to the cave lasts an hour and a half. The first part of the tour actually begins with a tiny train ride – more like the kind found in an amusement park. In fact, that’s what it felt like as we were whisked through the dark tunnel, with flashes of stalagmites and stalactites and other-worldly formations. It was both fun, and easily accessible.

This was only the beginning. After the 10 minute trip, the real tour starts. We all disembarked and guides took us on a well-paved trail explaining the history of the caves, and their formations. Mostly what I did was gawk as one huge impressive formation followed another. Caves, halls, passages, huge stalagmites created other-worldly visions. It was impressive both for the sheer size as well as the great beauty. The lighting was superbly done, creating compelling tableaux.

Although we didn’t see any, the karst underworld was once home to uniquely adapted life – 84 species of specialized subterranean life forms (36 land-dwelling species and 48 aquatic species). For their protection they don’t live in the parts of the cave system open to tourists, but the Proteus Vivarium, located by the entrance is open for visitors with informative exhibits.

For those who want more excitement and adventure, there are also special tours for small groups. These must be booked in advance, but the tours take visitors to those parts of the caves not open to the general public. Special equipment is required.

Cavers take note – although Postojna is the largest, there are almost 7,500 known and explored Karst caves, and more than 20 caves open or partially opened to tourists.

Dress warmly, the caves are cold all year round, however, should you arrive in summer without packing a warm jacket, capes are available for rent.

Otocec Castle Hotel

Our next stop was to the totally gorgeous five-star Otocec Castle Hotel. Although sadly we were unable to stay, we did tour the luxe property, eat chestnuts, and drink wine. The building we saw was actually a reconstruction of the original castle built in the 1200s and the stone courtyard is available for receptions and special events.

It’s the only river castle in Slovenia but it was not actually built on an island. The original construction was on the shore. At some point, a rive r canal was dug on the other side of the castle, creating an island, with the castle in the middle. With the reconstruction, guests can sleep in an ancient castle amidst luxury with an unmistakable air of romance.

Stanjel

Sitting atop a mountain with 360 degree views of the distant valley and fields, the medieval town of Stanjel is a photographer’s dream. Stroll through the ancient stone streets, buy some honey, stop into a gallery, or just wander up and down the narrow lanes, and see a town rebuilding itself. In a few years there will likely be a small inn or B&B and Stanjel will have completed the journey from medieval city, to a delightful town. It’s also located in one of Slovenia’s wine regions. And visitors can enjoy winery tastings.

Bled

Often prefaced with the words "fairy-tale" Bled easily offers one of the most charming vistas in Slovenia. It does look like something from a fantasy – a clear blue lake reflecting the town, the woods, and the castle on the mountain. Set into one end of the lake (the only glacial lake in Slovenia) is a tiny island complete with a tiny chapel, a steeple, and ringing bell. The whole tableau is surrounded by mountains.

The island, with its chapel and long history, is a popular tourist spot. Unfortunately the boats that take visitors to the island had shut down for the winter and I missed my opportunity to visit. The closest I got was finding this page GalenfrySinger.com

I was able to climb up to the castle on the hill with its own unique history and gorgeous views. Perfectly located to watch over the lake, this is one of the oldest medieval fortresses in Slovenia and dates back to at least 1011 AD if not earlier. The castle has a museum with signs in English describing its history and evolution.

As with most historic structures, the castle is a bit of a pastiche with a Roman nucleus Renaissance defense walls. The castle is reach via a steep paved path (with handrails). We crossed a wooden drawbridge and went through several fortified walls to reach the lower courtyard then up another ancient path to the upper courtyard.

There’s a tiny print shop located one floor down in a former prison, jammed with printing apparatus, and drawings, posters, and cards. We were greeted by the apprentice printer who was happy to answer (many) questions, but he also showed me the photo of the owner -- complete with full beard, voted best beard in Slovenia. Slovenia is a wonderful country for many reasons – including the fact that it has a “best beard” contest.

There’s also a lovely restored chapel and a wine shop in which you can bottle your own red or white wine. Touristy but fun.

The day was clear and the sun warmed the autumn day when I visited. Sitting in the courtyard of Bled castle I could feel the medieval atmosphere surrounding me as I watched sword-play and medieval dancing. I’m not sure if the performances were standard, or staged for travel writers, but even without it, visitors can get a cup of coffee or a soda at the tiny shop on the plaza near the print shop and sit and enjoy the grogeous view. There’s a restaurant as well.

Lake Bled is surrounded by parkland and hiking trails going into the mountains. Depending on season and weather, swim in the lake from any of the swimming docks, take a ride around the lake and to tiny island in an open wooden boat (called a pletna), or sit in a waterside café enjoying an ice cream or coffee and one of their delicious signature cream cakes. This is a resort town and popular and crowded in summer. In the off season, it’s still beautiful. No motor boats allowed on the lake, just swimmers and row boats. Being a glacial lake, a dip in the water will refresh on hot days.

The lake is small enough that visitors and residents often take a stroll around the entire lake. Although much had shut down for the winter, the nearby town of Milno has Pension Milno with a small café and is a perfect spot to take a break from walking.

What else is there to do in Slovenia? Visit I Love Slovenia -- slovenia.info and find out.

Slovenia has got to be one of those “best kept secret” destinations. Shhh! Don’t tell anyone I told you.