OffbeatTravel

Bewitching Salem

Notorious for the witch trials and hangings that took place in 1692, Salem has not only made the most of its dark history, but it has moved into the present with a world class museum.


In October, witches, high priests and priestesses swoop down to the colonial town of Salem, Massachusetts. They come from all over the world to attend the annual Halloween Witches Ball dressed in elaborate costumes. These wizards and mystics pay $150 to attend this gala, which is by invitation only. Approximately 150 attend and practice good witchcraft including channeling, taro readings and spells. The High Priest of the Salem Witches, Shawn Poirier, produces the annual ball where they conjure spirits of dead relatives among other things. Celebrities such as Cybil Shepard and Stevie Nicks include themselves as practicing witches.

According to the High Priest, "It is a combination religious ceremony, rock concert and New Year's eve party". Poirier, who has been practicing wicca (good witch craft) for twenty years, also holds the only authentic séance in Salem known as "Messages from the Spirit World". Founder of the Salem Tradition Witchcraft, Poirier wants people to understand that "we're a magical people that do not believe in the devil".

The town of Salem is notorious for the Salem Witch Trials of 1692 that pointed accusations at 150 townspeople and took 19 lives by hanging on Gallows Hill. An Oscar-winning performance by Wynona Ryder in Arthur Miller's The Crucible dramatically portrays the witchcraft hysteria started by two little girls.

Spooky Salem
You don't have to go to the Ball to experience the spookiness of Salem. It stirs your imagination, and your imaginings become real when costumed witches walk the streets of Salem as a common, everyday sight. Re-live the witch- hunt of the 17th century at the Salem Witch Museum where a multi-media presentation with thirteen stage-sets present historically accurate narrations.

Photo provided by Salem Witch Museum For a deeper insight into the trials and tribulations of 1692 Salem, visit the Witch Dungeon Museum. After watching a dramatic re-enactment of a trial where you feel like part of the jury, enter the dungeon in the basement (the actual location). The visitor has a better understanding of the dynamics that fueled the insanity: you were either the hunter or the hunted; there was no neutrality. The dungeon depicts inhumane conditions that are truly frightening.

Once you are saturated with witch- hunt stories, visit the many shops for souvenirs, potions and crystal balls. Since there are more people who practice wicca in Salem than anywhere else in the United States, you can easily find a witch who can give you a psychic reading or have your palm read.

Colonial Salem
Photo courtesy of House of Seven Gables - SalemThere is much more to Salem than its dark history of the late 1600's. The distinguished author Nathaniel Hawthorne was raised in the house in Salem, which inspired him to write The House of Seven Gables and The Scarlet Letter. Built in 1668, The House of Seven Gables has been completely restored and can be toured along with Hawthorne's birthplace (c 1750).

Another attraction is the famous Peabody Essex Museum. Eerie Events is an annual event featuring ghost stories from the thoughts of Poe, Hawthorne and Lovecraft that come alive with fright and thrills as professional actors in period costumes perform them. Open daily 10am-5pm and Sunday noon-5 pm, the museum was started in 1799 by entrepreneurs who had collected treasures from their sea voyages around the world. Now, it is the showcase for its comprehensive maritime collection and the world's largest collection of Asian decorative arts produced for American and European connoisseurs.

For architecture buffs, stroll down the most architecturally beautiful street in America: Chestnut Street. In fact, this historical street is registered as a National Landmark.

Don't miss the shops and things to do on Pickering Wharf. The Museum of Myths and Monsters isn't historical, but the kids will enjoy it. Enjoy a relaxing sail on the 39- foot schooner, The Rose, or search for whales on a whale watch.

There is so much to see and do that visitors to Salem should plan at least three days plus more if you take a side trip into Boston or the seaside artsy town of Rockport for a day.

If You Go

Attractions
House of Seven Gables
54 Turner Street
(978)744-0991
Open daily Monday - Saturday, 10 a.m.- 5 p.m. and January - April, Sunday, noon - 5 p.m. July through October 31, until 7 p.m. Tour the mansion made famous by Hawthorne's novel. Year round guided tours. Seaside gardens, Museum store, Cafe

Peabody Essex Museum
East India Square
(800)745-4054 (978)745-9500
Open: 7 days a week Memorial Day-Halloween, Mon. - Sat. 10am - 5pm, Sun. Noon - 5pm- 5pm. Closed Christmas Day, New Year's Day and Mondays Nov. 1 - Memorial Da

Witch Dungeon Museum
(978)741-3570
Acclaimed presentation of a witch trial adapted from the 1692 historical manuscripts by professional actors - a chilling performance. Dungeon tour recreates the atmosphere and conditions of the original site. April through November 10 am to 5 pm. Some nights during Haunted Happenings.

Salem Witch Museum
(978)744-1692
Open daily year round, 10 to 5; July and Aug. 10 to 7. Photo Courtesy of Destination Salem

The Salem Trolley
8 Central Street
(978)744-5469
Purchase tickets onboard the trolley or at The Trolley Depot Store Relax and enjoy narrated trolley rides filled with fun and interesting facts by expert guides. Tickets good for the day. Makes stops at all the popular sights. Daily April 1 to November 3; Weekends only in March & November.

Salem's Museum of Myths & Monsters
Pickering Wharf
(978)745-7283
Salem's Journey into Fear and beyond. Chamber of Ghosts. Open Daily, May to Dec. Admission charge.

Hotels
Salem Inn The centrally located Salem Inn is comprised of three historic houses: The Peabody House, The Captain West House, which houses the breakfast buffet for all guests, and the Curwen House. All of them have been renovated and redecorated. Between the three structures, they represent Federal, Colonial and Italianate Revival architecture. Be sure and tell your furry friend that she's welcome too. Hosts: Diane and Richard Pabich
7 Summer Street
Salem, Massachusetts 01970
reservations@SalemInnMa.com
(978) 741-0680
1-800-446-2995 (Outside MA)



Karen Hamlin is an award-winning travel writer and native New Englander with a few years in Hawaii, California, New York and Ohio along the way. She is the travel editor for City & Suburban Magazine, published quarterly with a circulation of 400,000 nationally. Among Karen’s professional interests are mature travel, cruises, beaches and cultural/historical destinations. Karen is a member of the North American Travel Journalists Association, who have recently awarded her First Prize in their Destination Travel - Internation division for her article Mystical Morocco. She is also a member of the International Food and Travel Writers Association, and a regular contributor to OffbeatTravel.com. Email her at:TravelingKH@yahoo.com