The legendary Route 66 long ago captured the minds and hearts of traveling America. It wasn’t the only roadway system that crossed state borders but it was the one that came to represent the romance of the road. No mere pavement, it was adventure, and sometimes it was salvation. It soon became known as the Main Street of America, and dubbed The Mother Road courtesy of John Steinbeck in Grapes of Wrath. When it was finally completed, Route 66 was the first all-weather highway and it linked Chicago to Los Angeles. Americans took to the road with gusto.

Eventually, the USA moved on, quite literally, to the national highway system -- moving people and goods across the country faster and with much less "distraction." Towns faded, the historic road became obsolete. In 1985 whatever was left of Route 66 was decommissioned. It no longer had any official status.

But the road that captured the hearts of travelers never really died. Today, driving down Route 66 is still magic.

Adrian

Traveling West to East before you get to Amarillo, your first stop should be Adrian (exit 22 off I-40). Not only is it the true mid-point of Route 66, halfway between Chicago and Los Angeles, but the Mid Point Café has wonderful pies in a charming vintage luncheonette atmosphere. The railroad and Route 66 made Adrian a boon town until I-40 was built. Then, like many other towns across the USA, it slowly faded away. Route 66 tourists still love to visit this geo-mathematical midpoint of the Mother Road with the motto When you’re here, you’re halfway there. In addition to the café there was a barbeque/antique place when we last visited.

Vega

Moving east, stop by Vega to see one of the original gas stations along Route 66. The tiny 1920s Magnolia Station was restored through National Park Service Route 66 Corridor Preservation Program funding. The Magnolia actually operated as a gas station until 1953, but its restoration returned it to the way it looked years back. Another nonlandmark station wasn’t so fortunate – Robinson’s Route 66 Café and Club is falling into genteel ruin – we ate our picnic lunch under its sheltering canopy.

The southwest is slowly becoming known for its wind farms. While in Vega, admire the wind turbines looking like graceful dancers. You can find them by taking Main Street to Country Road E and 37.

Amarillo

Often called the Capital of the Panhandle, Amarillo survived the death of Route 66. Today it straddles the upstart highway I-40. It’s also an example of one of the difficulties faced by drivers seeking to follow historic Route 66 – multiple alignments. Since the path of Route 66 often involved using already existing roads, town planners sometimes “moved” the route by moving the signs, effectively rechanneling traffic. Each time the road “moved” it became an alignment.

Amarillo has two different roads both with the legitimate claim to be Route 66. Amarillo Boulevard (also known as Business Route 40, and even Route 60) is one of the alignments. Actually the second incarnation of Route 66, it takes you a bit north of the rest of Amarillo which now spreads out south.

As you follow Amarillo Boulevard east, there are more and more ghost remnants, bits and pieces of the now legendary Mother Road. Defunct business with vintage cars parked out front, occasional arrows pointing to a shell of a store. But don’t give up on the road, there are oldies but goodies still open for business. Triangle Motel (circa late 1940s) was named after the odd-shaped lot where Highways 60 and 66 met. / The motel has received a Route 66 National Park Service Preservation grant to help restore the historic building.

Drivers who keep going east find English Field -- a piece of history on a piece of history. The story goes back to 1920 when Panhandle Aerial Service was started doing charters, stunts at fairs, and barnstorming. The original organizers were eventually joined by Harold English who renamed the operation English Airport. In 1952 it became Amarillo Air Terminal, a city operation, and then a historical site, the English Field Air and Space Museum. Unfortunately, this last incarnation has closed (although the hopeful signs are still there). Today all you can do is to walk the slowly decaying ruins and see one of the historic planes parked on the airfield.

The first and original Route 66 has become Sixth Avenue, which for some unknown reason most residents call Sixth Street. Never mind that the maps and all government documents, including street signs, call it Sixth Avenue. For the purposes of this article, we’ll use the officially sanctioned Sixth Avenue, but don’t be surprised if you hear otherwise.

The section between Georgia and Forest Streets is listed on the National Register of Historic Districts and is a vital and fascinating area called San Jacinto known for its eclectic collection of shops, and architectural styles. One of the highlights is the Nat – the affectionate diminutive for the Natatorium. The building started out in 1922 as an enclosed swimming pool. Then it became a “dine and dance palace,” an antique mall, and in its most recent incarnation, a special event venue. The Bookstore is now the front part of the building and exudes history. At the western end, stop and pick up a delicious Biti-Pie just off 6th Avenue.

Food and Lodging Amarillo has the largest selection of eateries and hotels in the Panhandle. The chain hotels and motels line up along I-40. We stayed at The Ambassador Hotel with down home hospitality, a welcoming open atrium with small fountains and ponds, and a small swimming pool/hot tub. Their pamphlet Art Walk: A love affair with Texas helps you understand the unique identity that is Texas, and their love affair with cowboys. The watercolors by Chris Owen are homages to the men that roamed the plains herding cows to market. Gary Crouch provides a look at the history of Texas.

The Big Texan Steak Rancy is legendary for its offer that if you can eat their 72oz. steak dinner within an hour, the steak is free. More than 40,000 people have attempted this feat since 1960, and about 7,000 have succeeded. Dyers is known for its BBQ, but there’s also an excellent place in Westgate mall (I-40 and Soncy Road at the west end of the city)– The Cattle Call. The ribs and brisket are perfectly smoked and the onion rings are a joy. Henks is a local favorite – stripped down to no decor. Texas Roadhouse is another place frequented by local residents.

McLean and Alanreed

Next along the nostalgia trail is McLean, sitting about two hours from the midpoint of Route 66. The main streets are quiet, even during the day during the week. Route 66 tourists and oddities collectors are often aware of the Devil’s Rope Museum. There are certainly very few places dedicated to the study of barbed wire but even if you aren’t an afficionado of thorny metal twine, you’ll still be amazed at the variety of barbed wire and its fascinating history. For good reason, it was called “the wire that won the west.”

Less well-known, the McLean/Alanreed Area Museum is housed in two of the original town buildings built 1904 and 1910. The volunteer docent is knowledgeable and eager to share the history of their town. The history of the town also includes a World War II Prisoner of War camp. A little known fact is that this country “hosted” about 425,000 captured Axis troops in more than 500 camps. The McLean camp held German POWs from 1943 until it closed in 1945. The museum exhibit contains camp artifacts, photographs, and two huge books of all the information known about the McLean camp. Little remains of the McLean Permanent Alien Internment Camp but there’s a historical marker on the SW corner of the old camp. (To reach the site, take I-40 to exit 146, then go north one mile)

One of the clear highlights of a visit is the restored Phillips 66 gas station. Built in the 1920s, it was one of the tiny, cottage-style stations with no garage, just two ancient gas pumps outside painted a lively orange. Next to it is a vintage gasoline tanker truck painted the same lively orange. Renovated back to its original look, it has the vintage Phillips 66 logos. The site is owned and maintained by the Texas Old Route 66 Association. A cute gas station may seem to be an oxymoron, but these stations are truly charming, speaking to a different age and style.

Nearby Alanreed has just about disappeared. Devotees of the Mother Road make the trip to see the restored service station of Bradley Kiser on one of the incarnations of Route 66. This 66 Super Service Station dates back to the 1930s. A plaque reads “Built by Bradley Kiser 1930" then in downtown Allanreed.” Moving the station didn’t help. The town and the alignments all ended up living in the mists of Route 66 history.

Shamrock

Although it is certainly unexpected to find a town with an Irish name in the middle of Texas, the name reflects the origin of the town – established by an Irish sheep rancher. And it’s Irish enough to hold an annual St. Patrick’s Day celebration. For those not ready to make the trip to Ireland to kiss the Blarney Stone, you don’t have to go any further than Shamrock. In 1959 a piece of world famous Stone from Cork County, Ireland was brought to Shamrock by the Chamber of Commerce. It’s mounted in Elmore Park.

The town also has celebrity status for the historic and eye-catching U-Drop Inn & Conoco Station. Built in 1936 it has served travelers for many years. In 2003-2004 it was taken over and restored to its former glory by the city of Shamrock with a grant from the Texas Department of Transportation. Although no longer a functioning restaurant visitors can see its original art-deco beauty as they visit the Shamrock Chamber of Commerce and visitors bureau. The old gasoline pumps are still outside with the Conoco sign.

Texas Highway Rest Stop at Milepost 129

And finally, the Texas highway homage to Route 66 takes place at milepost 129 in the form of a rest stop. This special commemorative rest area is only going east and is about one hour east of Amarillo. With art-deco architecture, interactive video exhibits, and walkways reminiscent of the Route 66 complete with painted asphalt black with white lines down the center. Plaques by benches along the path tell the story of the road and the region.

If You Go Our best advice -- stop in at the Travel Information Center at 9700 I-40 East. The staff are friendly, and extremely knowledgeable about Texas sights/attractions. We believe the best place to get information on the road is to walk into one of these travel centers and chat with the staff. Not all are as helpful and knowledgeable, but the one in Amarillo is a true treasure.

We also found Route 66 Adventure Handbook by Drew Knowles to be the best of the guide books and although sometimes dated, it was very helpful. There's also a fun and free newspaper and website Route 66 Pulse.

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