Then our paddles crash into each other and we're once again focused on how a bunch of inept rowers can navigate sharp turns. The answer is Teamwork (and at least one person who knows what they're doing).

Quebec City is one of my favorite cities -- the food, history, architecture, and ambiance is perfect. It's my idea of a destination city. And one of its advantages is that the pleasure extends quite literally, outside the walls of the city and into the countryside.

Le Manoir du Lac Delage (Inn of Lake Delage)

Le Manoir du Lac Delage is located about 30 minutes from Quebec, in a residential area where houses are terraced up the sides of the hills. Each different from its neighbor. The pace at the manoir is languorous. People stroll. Even the bikers don't seem in a hurry, and the dogs walk rather than run. This is not a place for the frantically busy, although there's certainly enough activities. Swim in their indoor pool, play miniature golf, tennis, and canoe or kayak on the clear placid lake. Swing back and forth on the double porch-style swings. Sit and stare off at the leaves turning red across the lake. Or, sit on your own deck and watch the lady bugs. The outdoor dining terrace and indoor dining room both offer beautiful views of the lake as well as delicious food.

The rooms are well-appointed and comfortable in tones of russet, forest green and ochre with a separate heater in the bathrooms for cold Canada winters. The bathrooms also have large bath sheets and there's a big fluffy robe in the closet. And everywhere is the tranquil view of the Lac Delage, and the mountains beyond.

Exploring
About 10 minute walk down the road is Marais du Nord (North Marsh) catering to hikers, birders, and boaters. The nature area is cris-crossed with different trails providing 7 kilometers (a little over 4 miles) for walking and hiking, as well as a boat launch for those who bring their canoes and kayaks. For those arriving without a boat, guided excursions can be arranged May through October. No motorboats are permitted on the lake or its waterways and there is little noise to interfere with the peace and the wildlife. There are Blue Jays, European Robins, Chickadees, even Great Blue Herons make Marais du Nord their home, as do otters and beavers. It is a perfect place to go boating.

This is prime agricultural area and visitors can discover rural joys such as apple cider tasting. The Ciderie La Pomme du Saint-Laurent at 503, chemin Bellevue West (Phone:418-246-5957) has a tasting at the bar in its rustic and charming shop. You'll also find beautifully laid out displays of fruit, honey, and apple products. We started with a refreshing apple cider with cranberry, then move to a hard cider (all cider in Quebec has alcoholic content only apple juice is not fermented) which has a hint of sweetness and a bit of a bite and then to their delicious ice cider.

Manoir des Erables (Inn of the Maple Trees)

This 1814 manor house has a totally different style. Manoir des Erables is named after the beautiful old maple trees which shade the house and property. Visitors check in at the reception desk in what had been the stone-walled front porch. The main level holds a lovely dining room with a fireplace and chandeliers, a formal but yet friendly and inviting space. Across is the lounge decorated with the heads of trophy animals. And the swirling polished wood staircase leading to the upper floors with the bedrooms.

Each of the rooms is different. Many rooms have fireplaces, and some with high ceilings, others with cozy nooks, but each is distinctive. There are also rooms in two other buildings besides the original manoir. The feeling is that of visiting a wealthy French-speaking friend, and one who has a chef known for his cuisine.

There is an outdoor swimming pool (open only in the summer) but this is a place to come back to at the end of a day exploring the countryside, or a place to sit under one of the trees and relax. Perhaps have one of their excellent spa treatments after which you are invited to sit and have a tissane (herbal tea). And a place to enjoy a beautiful meal of regional cuisine.

The facials and exfoliations use the latest trend in spa ingredients which has moved from herbs and flowers towards food-related ingredients. The manoir, named after the maple naturally features maple- based products, as well as chocolate, and grape. The cuisine is one of the specialties of this manoir, particularly regional foods, using local seasonal ingredients. In autumn game meats predominate with quail, duck, rabbit and pigeon. Fish is often salmon and trout.

In winter the snow-covered trails are the lure for those who want to snow mobile. But you can also try dog-sledding or snowshoeing. Even take a sleigh-ride. Spring, summer, and fall are perfect seasons to explore the countryside.

Exploring
The manoir is located in the small town of Montmagny. Almost totally French, even the architecture seems more European than North American. Strolling through the narrow streets I often forgot I was in Canada, and felt that I had somehow been transported to a small village in France.

At Cap St-Ignace, if your timing is right in spring and autumn, you can observe the snow geese migration as they head either north for the summer or south for the winter.

Parc de la chute- Montmorency (Montmorency Falls Park)

The focus of this popular destination is the 272 foot waterfall, higher than Niagara by about 100 feet, but much narrower. In winter the spray off the water freezes and the Pain du Sucre (Sugar Loaf) becomes a giant slide. The little streams on either side of the falls freezes and become a great place for ice climbing. In summer it's the site of an international fireworks competition which combines the magnificent fireworks display with music -- Grands Feux Loto-Quebec. At any time of year, there's the charming Manoir Montmorency for lunch, dinner, or Sunday brunch. The lovely outdoor terrace overlooks the falls, and offers a beautiful view of the river.

Ile D'Orleans

When the Quebecois want to escape from it all, they head to the lovely bucolic island of Ile D'Orleans. Although a bridge has connected the island to the mainland by Montmorency Falls since 1935, the bucolic feel remains strong.

The tiny villages and charming cottages dot the single road that circles the 20 mile long island. Acres and acres of farm land, orchards filled with fruit, and farms of potatoes and corn and more fill the center. In autumn not only are the leaves red and golden beautiful, but the maple syrup runs and it's time take a tour, or pick up some maple syrup, or snow-hardened maple syrup taffy.

Any time of year you can enjoy the chocoholic heaven of Chocolaterie de L'Ile d'Orleans. They make their fine quality chocolate down the road from the charming shop (which also serves as the village post office). There is, of course, chocolate candy in all styles, and the chocolate sauce with strawberries is fantastic (deliciously decadent over ice cream). But if you're serious about chocolate covered ice cream, head upstairs for their soft ice cream dipped in melted chocolate multiple times until it forms a thick dense layer. As the chocolate slowly hardens on contact with the frozen ice cream a kind of chocolate brittle is formed. Carefully bite into it and wedges of thick chocolate break off with the creamy ice cream underneath.

Quebec also showcases their Economusee, a heritage program in which visitors can watch traditional artisans at work. Ile d'Orleans is home to the blacksmithing and metal workshop economusee owned by Guy Bel and Sylvie Lavoie. On our visit Leonard Arseneau, a 56 year old blacksmith, taught us about metal-working and demonstrated how he made nails and iron leaves for decoration. He apprenticed with one of the few women blacksmiths where he learned about making old keys and locks from 17th and 18th centuries. Handy when old houses are restored, and the door hinges, keys, need to be recreated to match those used originally. There's also a lovely gift shop.

Farms growing corn, apples, potatoes, and strawberries. A chocolate maker. Ironwork artisan. Beekeepers for honey, cheese makers, and wine growers offering tastings and tours. More? Painters, and potters, sculptors, and weavers who open their galleries generally May through October. Clearly too much to see in one day, you can also stay on the island and explore from one of the approximately 30 B&Bs dotting the island.

Quebec offers a taste of La Belle France without the hassle of a transatlantic flight (and you can and should take the kids). The Quebecois not only celebrate their French heritage, they live it.