The whole city is a joy, but the most remarkable part of the metamorphosis was the daylighting of the Providence River. Paved over, abused with sewage, and ignored, it had just about disappeared from the city. Restoration, a process known among planners and architects as daylighting, involved the removal of 1,150 feet of roadway, asphalt, and concrete that had covered the river and its tributaries. An amazing feat of engineering legerdemain, it created one of the most lovely urban riverscapes in the country, complete with gondolas and docking platforms, and (more importantly) it provided a reason for people to return to downtown Providence.

City planners didn't stop there. As long as they were recreating the city, they decided to relocate the railroad tracks, which had added little to the urban vistas, and redesign the transportation system. Visitors can explore Providence using special buses disguised as trolley cars with wheels. The routes have been designed to loop through the major tourist areas with the hub at the center of the city. It makes a walkable city even more welcoming.

Friday - Day One
Start by getting a feel of the history of Providence by exploring both its colonial past and its college-town present. Rhode Island was truly founded on religious freedom for everyone, the colony that King Charles II referred to in the Royal Charter of 1663 as a "lively experiment," a civil state "with a full liberty in religious concernments."

Benefit Street The very heart of historic Providence is the "Mile of History" along Benefit Street. Here you'll find a living community of 18th- and 19th-century homes. Start your tour with a visit to the Providence Preservation Society and pick up information and tour guides.

Some of the highlights include the house of Sarah Helen Whitman at 88 Benefit Street. Courted by Edgar Allen Poe, the romance ran aground on the rocks of Poe's continued drinking (or so the story goes). Visit the Old State House at 150 Benefit Street, now a National Historic Landmark. Two months before the Founding Fathers declared independence in Philadelphia, Rhode Islanders declared their independence on May 4th, 1776. Another stop should be the Providence Athenaeum, at 251 Benefit Street, (at the corner of College Street). Previously, only the very wealthy could afford books, so they were the holders of the knowledge contained within. But democracies depend on an educated population to make informed choices and decisions. Libraries became a hallmark of enlightenment for towns, and a very practical way to disseminate knowledge. If you're a fan of Poe, ask to see the issue of the American Review in which Poe signed his name to his anonymously published poem Ulalume.

Not strictly historical, Benefit Street is also home to several galleries which display the work of the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD - pronounced RIZ DEE) students and faculty. Benson Hall at 235 Benefit Street displays the work of RISD printmaking faculty, students, and visiting artists. RISD Museum of Art is just down the street at 224 Benefit Street with over 100,000 works of art and a full schedule of special exhibitions, lectures, tours, concerts, and other programs.

Walk along Wickenden Street for the cafes, antiques and art then back along South Main Street for more works by RISD students and faculty. Finish up in the area of Brown University on Angell Street, and visit Thayer Street, the funky student area. Note the art work atop telephone poles, using the prosaic as a base for art.

Friday Evening
Providence Performing Arts Center Enjoy a show at the beautifully restored Providence Performing Arts Center. The building itself is golden-ornate gorgeous. It may be odd to think that this opulent theatre started out as a Loew's Movie Palace in 1928 but early Loew's buildings were true works of architectural art. Beautifully restored, the PPAC also contains a 1927 Wurlitzer organ purchased to replace the original Morton organ destroyed when the building was seriously damaged by Hurricane Carole in 1954. The Wonders of the Wurlitzer has become a regular concert series for lovers of these historic music-makers. The Trinity Repertory Company is another excellent choice for classical and contemporary theatre.

Saturday - Day Two
Start the day with a visit Culinary Archives & Museum at Johnson & Wales University. This is the premier museum devoted to the preservation of the history of the culinary and hospitality industries. Tours are available to explain the significance of the over half-a-million items in their collection, representing five hundred years of cooking history. It's been called "The Smithsonian Institution of the Food Service Industry," and with good reason. Some of the highlights include the interior of an old-style luncheonette, a collection of cookbooks dating back to the 1500s (some are the only known copies) and more than 4,000 menus. You won't believe what people used to cook and eat. Antique stoves and kitchens, the oldest utensil -- and how it was used. Some items need explaining, while others will make you think...Hey, my mom/dad used to use something like that! Their newest endeavor is the restoration of the Eveready Diner which will become one of the centerpieces of this unusual museum.

Finish up at the Arcade at 65 Weybosset Street. This Greek-Revival style building is considered to be the oldest shopping mall in America, dating back to 1828. It's tiny but charming and contains a pastry shop, Johansson's Bakery Café, run entirely by the students of Johnson & Wales University. Luscious rich cakes, tiny pastries, moist and chewy biscotti. While you're there pick up a dessert for later on. Also at The Arcade is the gallery space of the Rhode Island Black Heritage Society, and several art and jewelry shops.

Saturday Evening
There's no better way to enjoy a lovely Summer evening than WaterFire®. You may even want to arrange your visit to include a night when this unique conceptual art, music, experience is scheduled.

The inspiration of Barnaby Evans, WaterFire® begins with boats gliding through the water holding torches aloft to light the 100 bonfires along 2/3 mile of the river in specially constructed braziers. When the fires have been lit the water is aglow with flame, both real and reflected. The effect is magical, and brings the community to the river to stroll, dine, listen to music, and enjoy.

Sunday - Day Three
Providence has its own little Italy on Federal Hill (Atwells Avenue). Stroll along the streets and consider eating your way through this most delicious section of town. A joy for shoppers and eaters is Venda Ravioli. In addition to mouth-watering prepared foods in the showcases there's fresh-made specialty pasta like basil eggplant ravioli, cheeses, olive oils, kitchen utensils, and things you didn't know you needed until you saw them sitting in one of the displays. There's tables inside and outside if you want to make this your lunch place. If you're visiting in time for dinner, there's mouth-watering delicious restaurants all through the area.

If you have the time and stamina, Providence Place brings new meaning to the word megamall. But if you just want to relax, try Waterplace Park, located on the riverfront. It also shelters an amphitheater for public concerts.

Encouraged and heartened by the success of the ventures thus far, the government is planning to continue to relocate, redesign, recreate their vision of the city. There's more riverfront renewal planned. They've diked the waterfront to prevent further incidents of disastrous flooding and are now planning to take the old Narragansett Electric South Street Power Plant on the Providence River and recycle it into the Heritage Harbor Museum. After moving a river, moving a highway should be easy.

The river started out as Providence's most valuable resource, the waterway to trade. Today it is once again becoming the focus of the city, the waterway to gracious city living.