Founded by William Penn, an English Quaker who started the colony based on religious freedom and tolerance, Pennsylvania manages to combine the consumer-goods shunning Amish with factory tours of major consumer-goods companies. It was the site of one of the most radical political acts in history and yet contains the remnants of a society built on religious conservatism.

Philadelphia

Americans have lived with the history for so long we've lost sight of our truly revolutionary past, and stable societies rarely want to remind its citizens that its existence is owed to the actions of rabble rousing ancestors (who would certainly would have been hung had they been caught). But this country started with an act of clear rebellion, and it took place in the city of Philadelphia.

Independence National Historical Park
This is basically where it all happened. There's several buildings in the area that speak of the history of the United States of America. At one time it was possible to simply wander around the area, but now there's security and gates and people in uniforms. Among the buildings, complete with long line of visitors, is the Liberty Bell rung for the first time at the public reading of the Declaration of Independence on July 8, 1776. Wander through Independence Hall where the Declaration of Independence and the United States Constitution were signed. History happened here. Standing on the grass, now a public park, seeing the old buildings (while actively ignoring the 20th and 21st century and about 100 people walking about) it is almost possible to imagine what it must have been like hearing the revolutionary idea of freedom from tyranny.

Benjamin Franklin
He wasn't a native son (actually he was born in Boston, Massachusetts) but much of Philadelphia is a tribute to Benjamin Franklin. His face appears on walls across the city, and there is no shortage of statues atop and among buildings. The most concentrated Franklin paraphernalia is in Franklin Court, the site of the Market Street Houses, in an underground museum and reconstructed 18th century print shop and Franklin's house.

Actually, Franklin's three-story house itself isn't there anymore. His practical and unsentimental sons sold it. It was later razed, in 1812. Now a skeleton of artful beams mark the area, Ghost Structure by architect Robert Venturi.

Franklin was certainly a peripatetic man, both in the physical sense and certainly in the intellectual sense. Among his inventions was a wonderful musical instrument called the glass armonica. Made of glass bowls mounted sideways on a long rotating rod, the instrument is played by rubbing the moistened rims. Its eerie sound is similar to the one produced by rubbing the rims of glasses today, but the armonica achieves a larger range. Park service interpreters play the armonica at regular intervals. We heard a halting but charming rendition of Puff the Magic Dragon. It's a difficult instrument and not many people are skilled enough to even attempt an actual tune.

There's also the tiny B. Free Franklin post office where folks line up to get their cards and letters hand-stamped with Franklin's signature, and a printing shop. Although the actual building Franklin used is several blocks away and not open to the public, the recreation in the Franklin complex is historically accurate. Park Service interpreters give regular demonstrations of the printing techniques of the time. You can also purchase a copy of the Declaration of Independence printed on the press. Buy one, read it, and be amazed and delighted at the audacity of the founders of this country.

Elfreth's Alley
While you're wandering around the city, stroll over to Elfreth's Alley credited with being the oldest existing street in the United States. Many of the Alley's 33 houses were built over 300 years ago, in the 1700s. The Alley is a National Historic Landmark.

South Street
For a total change of pace, go down to South Street. We believe in visiting a city through its cuisine so you should definitely plan to try the signature steak sandwich, There's plenty of Philly cheese steak places. But there's also some of the best street art we've seen. Building walls are a riot of colored glass and mirror mosaic art. Funky shops line the street as well as shops selling more salacious products.

Christ Church Burial Ground
Although it was not yet open to the public when we visited, the Christ Church Burial Ground is due to open in the Spring of 2003. It's the burial place not only of Benjamin Franklin, his wife Deborah, and other family members, but other signatories of the Declaration of Independence. Deterioration and fears of damage have kept it closed for the past 25 years.

OffbeatTravel has a weakness for historic hotels so we found Philadelphia a true delight. We stayed in the Park Hyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue, a conveniently located lovingly restored historic hotel with great views of the city from the public areas on the 19th floor. As with any major city, there are accommodation to meet any need.

There's much to see and enjoy in Philadelphia, so pick up a map, pack comfortable shoes and stroll, eat and shop your way though a delightful city.

Jim Thorpe - the City

We were intrigued by the story of Jim Thorpe and charmed by the city.

History
Once upon a time it was known as Mauch Chunk or Bear Mountain, because it was said to resemble a crouching bear. For many years the town prospered with coal mines and railroads, but eventually the mines closed and the town began a slow economic decline.

Once upon a different time and place, Jim Thorpe became the hero of the 1912 Olympics. He was a Native American member of the Sac and Fox tribe and one of the world's best all-around athletes. But glory can be short-lived and it was discovered that Thorpe had once played a season of professional baseball. It was enough to disqualify him as an amateur athlete even though there was no Olympic medal for baseball. He was stripped of all his awards. Eventually the man once called "the greatest athlete in the world" died. His wife approached his home state of Oklahoma but they didn't want to erect a suitable monument. However, the town of Mauch Chunk was interested. And on the east side of town, Jim Thorpe was laid to rest and the name of the town changed Jim Thorpe.

Many years too late, in October, 1982 Thorpe's amateur status was reinstated, and replicas of his two gold medals were presented to his family.

Even as Mauch Chunk the town had quite a colorful past. In particular, the Molly Maguires, a group of coal miners caught between the powerful owners of the coal mines and the struggle for safer conditions and better pay. Accused of murder, several members were eventually hung.

Sights and pleasures
Of course, there's the Jim Thorpe memorial located along Route 903, on the east side of town. But there's also the historic center of town, compact and easily walked. The Old Jail Museum is the original 1871 jail and the tour includes an actual gallows, as well as the story of the men who came to be known as the Molly Maguires.

Don't miss the Old Mauch Chunk H.O. Scale model trains (next to the railroad station, second floor). It's 47 feet by 22 feet of highly detailed displays with houses, churches, stores and skyscrapers. Several are replicas of building in near-by Allentown. And no, we have no idea why there'd be replicas of Allentown in Jim Thorpe. The displays depict life during the day and the evening, when the room is darkened and the tiny buildings light up. We also went on the 8-mile train ride. Feel free to skip it if you're pressed for time. But don't skip the Stone Row houses on Race Street, hidden behind Broadway. These lovely stone houses have a distinctive Colonial America feel and are said to be copied from Elfreth's Alley in Philadelphia.

Probably the most exquisite, and expensive, place to stay in town is the Harry Packer Mansion. Located atop Packer Hill it's a gorgeous Victorian delicacy constructed in 1974 of brick and stone. It's not the only place, however, there are also some charming B&Bs. There's also plenty of places to eat, including the Molly Maguires pub. Just because they were hung as murderers, that doesn't mean the town can't have a pub named after them, does it? The Sunrise Diner is a stainless steel 1950s vintage diner with our favorite...breakfast served all day (as well as other food).

Amish country

We've been visiting the Amish country for years. Although they are sometimes referred to as the Pennsylvania Dutch, that's a misnomer. They aren't Dutch at all. They were originally from Germany, and they would be the Pennsylvania Deutsch.

Its tranquility is a balm for the spirit. Over the years however, the area has changed. Lancaster used to be the place to stay with some hotels, but still a laid-back feel. The towns with the quaint names such as Bird in Hand, and Intercourse (a name which has caused much reaction and questioning over the years) were too small for more than a traffic light.

On our recent trip we didn't venture near Lancaster. The crowds, the crush of motels and amusement parks, the strip shopping centers have changed the feel and it hasn't been an improvement. However, those tiny towns on Route 340 have now grown to just the right size. There's a couple of motels, the same wonderful family restaurants serving hearty Amish style meals, and shops selling Amish-made goods. And, of course, the Amish people are still there, riding in the horse-drawn carriages with the big irridescent safety triangle to alert drivers to the slow moving vehicles ahead. The young boys now get around using in-line rollerblades while on the farms clothing hangs on lines to dry. The Amish are still there reminding us that technology isn't everything. That life can be lived more simply, and at a slower pace.

Some of the more famous places to eat are still there and still fun. Plain & Fancy Farm Restaurant and Good 'N Plenty, and Stoltzfus Farm Restaurant are probably the major places to eat. The wait for a table at all of these places can be long, but there's nothing that we've ever had that's even remotely like the food. Huge platters of meat loaf, fried chicken, ham, pot pies and more. Bowls of mashed potatoes, dumplings, vegetables, and farm relish, and then the desserts! Some of the restaurants will seat each family at its own table, but our preference is to sit with multiple groups at long tables. It's just more fun. Miller's Smorgasbord is another popular dining place. It combines the more traditional fare with shrimp, seafood bisque, and other more mainstream dishes. If you plan to visit these restaurants on a Sunday, check ahead. This is Amish country and Sunday is the day of rest.

The People's Place in Intercourse is the best place to learn about the Amish through their theater presentation Who Are the Amish, and their museum and bookstore. Along the same stretch of road are stores selling Amish-made goods. Skip the mass-produced stuff, but don't miss the quilts. The Village Quilts in Kitchen Kettle Village (yes, it's cutsey but the quilts are worth it) has a range of prices for these exquisite hand-made beauties. We walked out with an one-square mini which now hangs on the wall. There's also the Village Pottery featuring ceramics by Mennonite potters.

Wandering through the town brought simple pleasures. Like a store selling salads, sandwichs, and a good cup of coffee. For those times when you don't want a hearty meal. Next to a dealer selling huge pieces of farm equipment (think tires the size of people), we found a tiny unassuming place called The Broom Shop. There wasn't anything for sale, but you could go up the rickety steps to the top floor and watch a very charming and patient man make all different size and kinds of brooms.

Fallingwater & Kentuck Knob

FallingWater
We had, for once, made reservations in advance to visit Fallingwater, perhaps the most famous residential building designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. It was a very good thing we did. As the cars queued up in front of the gatehouse, the sign in front announced that all tours for the day had been sold out. This is a phenomenally popular attraction, and run like a military operation. The Western Pennsylvania Conservancy doesn't mess around. You come in, are assigned to one of many tour groups that run throughout the day. And at the end of the tour they show you a video about the Conservancy and ask you to become a member.

Designed in 1935 as a second home for the Kaufman family, owners of the Pittsburgh department store, Fallingwater is one of Wright's most famous homes. Without a doubt, he was a visionary, and no where is it more clear than in his ingenious designs. The decks are actually cantilevered over the waterfalls without pillars or posts. The stone flooring by the fireplace actually is the rocks on which the house is built. His use of glass, wood and local stone, of huge open vistas, of the outdoors brought inside leaves one murmuring...genius.

After the tour, stroll through the grounds, which are wild and lovely, and provide an excellent view of the architecture of this design and engineering marvel.

Kentuck Knob
This is a lovely building, but it suffers in comparison. If you decide to see both, see Kentuck Knob first. It also seems to be Wright as a more petulant autocrat. Currently owned by British Lord and Lady Palumo the house was originally built for the Hagan family. There are the wonderful stone floors and walls, the generous use of wood, the flow of interior and exterior space that mark Fallingwater, but there is also Wright insisting that there shouldn't be a row of closets in the bedroom, or being philosophically opposed to adding an attic crawl space, or a basement. The Wright technique of contrasting small and large spaces by squeezing people through a narrow passage before releasing them in a large open area is evident in both houses, but somehow in the Hagan home we feel the pain of these folks trying to get from one room to another walking side-ways. The kitchen is described as "the architectural core of the home. Its walls of stone not only anchor the two wings of the house but also rise to penetrate the horizontal line of the copper roof." In reality, there are no windows and the room is the size of a large closet. We have no idea how Mrs. Hagan managed to cook without getting a case of claustrophobia.

New Hope

A tale, in a way, of two cities. New Hope, larger, busier and more touristy is in PA, while Lambertville is its cousin across the Delaware river in NJ, about a five minute stroll across the bridge (complete with walkers lane).

New Hope is a charming town, quaint and quirky. Given the influx of tourists, it's also surprisingly friendly. We were there to see the midnight production of the Rocky Horror Picture Show at Bucks County Playhouse but knowing it's a popular destination on its own, we were prepared to spend the weekend and enjoy ourselves. And we did -- in spite of the drippy weather.

This wasn't our first trip to New Hope/Lambertville. We had visited years before when it was a bit sleepier and less crowded. With increasing prosperity came tourists and higher prices, but more stores. Magnificent galleries line the street. Not cheap, but some of the art glass pieces were breathtaking. Anyway, you gotta a love a place with a large cow sculpture in the middle of town. Love Saves the Day is a tiny shop crammed with the bizarre and the outrageous. Pre-worn leather fringed suede jackets, old prom dresses, clothes culled from attics and junk piles, feather boas and fake poops (yes, fake poops).

There are certainly plenty of dining choices in New Hope, and part of the fun is walking from one restaurant to the other reading the menus and deciding which to try. Most seemed to be open late for both tourists and natives. Some offered live music. In fact it seemed that the entire town was composed of restaurants, galleries, and inns, not necessarily a bad thing at all. Bucks Country Playhouse, a professional theater dating back to 1939 is funky and fun. In a town with a parking problem, it offers its own lot for those attending a performance.

You can also take a tour of the Parry Mansion, a lovely old stone building dating back to 1784.

When you do cross into Lambertville, there's the D & R Canal Scenic Tow Path that runs along the water which is worth a stroll, as well as additional stores and restaurants.

Lodging
We stayed at the Best Western, located a five to ten-minute drive away from town center, which came complete with amenities and a heated pool. But there are plenty of charmers in town. During our wanderings we came across Porches on the Towpath. The owner was energetically working in the garden and happily told us about his plans to expand the tiny B&B. There was also the magnificent historic The Mansion Inn. However, be warned, lodging is not cheap in New Hope. We recommend investigating rooms in Lambertville, NJ as well. The Lambertville House looked cozy.