Middle England’s Murder Triangle: Oxfordshire, Midsomer Murders, and More

Outlying villages are shaken form their slumber when the film crews arrive from nearby Pinewood studios. There names are changed, shops are closed and a surreal life is lived for that day. Most of the villagers have volunteered to be extras and even the whole choir of St Mary Church in Wallingford have been seen in an episode.

Begin in Wallingford

Where better than to start than with Wallingford, the home for many years of Agatha Christie the doyenne of murder. Poirot has been filmed here too. The first location shots for Midsomer Murders were in the Corn Exchange Theatre in Wallingford, fictional name - Causton.

Within this 1856 theatre loving restored by the Sinodun players and their volunteers. It is interesting to note that their second president was none other than Agatha Christie. Dennis Woods is present incumbent. Former gaiety girl, Francis Curtis, founded the Sinodun Players in January 1948. However, it was in 1976 that they purchased their present home. The self-funded self-done renovations took years but they opened the curtains in 1979 and have never looked back. My guide, John Warburton, a retired metallurgist from Harwell is now dedicating his life to this still active theatre and cinema.

With John Warburton as an efficient local reference point, the calls continued to come from Pinewood.
‘John find me a village fete full of locals ‘
‘John find me a church choir’
‘John find me a local pub where Barnaby can pop in for a regular pint between murders’.

In one episode, I believe there were seven murders alone. This is serious killing country. John Nettles has been the star Barnaby until now. Neil Dudgeon is taking over as Det Chief Inspector John Barnaby with sidekick Jason Hughes as Det Sgt Ben Jones. I hear a whisper there is a third partner in the shape of a dog too.

I met the custodians of Wallingford Museum at Flint House. Stu Darby is an active volunteer that have amassed a display a wonderful artefact of Wallingford life. An ideal place to learn the history but also to start you Murder Trail. This year they have a special exhibition of Agatha Christie originals never seen before. Taken from desk draws and found in local homes letters from her and to her give a fascinating insight into her happy quiet life at her nearby home in Winterbrook.

I stayed at the 16th century coaching inn, now the George Hotel, a part of the Peel Hotel group that was once the stopover of Dick Turpin the highwayman, when resting before his next ‘job’ at the ford on Thames River. It is an ideal base for driving the countryside on the hunt for murder. This first crossing point north of London was so important that the largest caste in the UK was here. Now much of the stones and lead went down river to build Windsor Castle. One of the locals asked a visiting member of the Royal Family whether they could have them back. Cheeky as it may seem, it went down well with the Royals but the answer was still NO.

The murder triangle with Causton as it centre stretches to Oxford and fictional places called Badgers Drift, Midsomer Wallow and Aspen Tallow.

To drive through these villages trying to spot the house, shop or church that is masquerading as an extra is so much fun. The thatched cottages, church graveyards and cricket greens are still there – a part of rural life so English – still strong.

Explore the Oxfordshire countryside for more murderous towns

On my tour, I visited Thame, a still vibrant market town. I ate a great rib eye steak at the Thatch Restaurant, a thatched black and white English 1550 pub. Even this place has starred in a reality TV show - The Restaurant with chef Raymond Blanc (owner of Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons near Thame). Just opposite is the Thame Museum where Jenny Dodds showed me interesting things from the town’s past and fascinating finds. Here the Cornmarket, Town Hall, Bookshop Spread Eagle pub have all starred in Midsomer Murders.

I then travelled to Warborough and took a swift half at the Six Bells Pub, as Inspectors do. Matt the current landlord had a rude induction on the next Friday when the crew were descending upon him to film all day. The cricket pavilion and village green have all seen blood spilled.

In quiet Dorchester, the Norman Abbey dominates the village. Joyce Barnaby visited the abbey museum in episode ‘the house in the woods’. The George pub opposite is the oldest in England 1495 and incognito it is the Feathers and the George Inn in the 'maid of splendour 'episode.

Nettlebed was next on my hit list, a prickly place for sure. The Joyce Grove House majestic on a misty morning is now a respite centre but I quietly walk in the grounds. The once home of the famous family Fleming of Bond fame is stunning and was fictional home of the Fitzroys - Bledlow Hall in ‘Blood weddings’ episode. With the Fleming family still living locally it is a place of both murder and spies. Ewelme, Chinnor and Crocker End villages have also been featured. These real names are all so ancient. Midsomer Murders, Poirot, Inspector Morse and Rosemary and Thyme have all been filmed in this lovely place called Oxfordshire. Be careful, you may never come out alive. The first episode of the new series is Death in the Slow Lane and this is the most beautiful place to DIE. Get the guidebook for Midsomer Murder country as I did and have fun driving through the beautiful countryside of Oxfordshire. Take a detour from London on your way to Oxford or Stratford upon Avon and you will be richly rewarded and come to love quintessential rural England.