Cruising into the Arctic Circle

I was in Bergen, Norway, and the air was fresh and sweet on a sunny day. The flight (on SAS) was comfortable in coach because I had an entire row to myself, watched three first-run movies, and was pleasantly satiated with plenty of healthy Scandinavian cuisine.

The rest of the world doesn’t pay much attention to Norway, except for its minimalist, teak wood furniture. Oops, no, that’s Denmark; like I said, most people don’t think about Norway much. It rarely makes the news except maybe for Sonja Henning, but that was a long time ago. And I discovered that’s the way they like it.

Norway is shaped like a tadpole that clings to the western side of Sweden while its tail drapes over the top of Finland and Russia. Two oceans and two seas kiss Norway: the Baltic Sea, the Norwegian Sea, the Atlantic Ocean, and the Arctic Ocean. All except the Baltic Sea flow into the Arctic Circle: our final destination.

Shipboard on Ms. Trollfjord

Unlike American ships, there were no planned activities on board; most passengers read books on deck or in front of the walls of windows, or conversed. Regardless of the weather, many enjoyed the outdoor hot tubs. A bar and a cocktail lounge attracted some guests, but there was no casino.

The Arctic Circle and the Magnificent Geirangerfjord

The ship headed for Alesund to the Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO world heritage site and according to National Geographic Traveler Magazine, the world’s most untouched holiday destination. We arrived at Geirangerfjord at 10:30pm, at dusk, with a twilight zone of slate-blue haze blanketing the eerie scenery. Shadows and light played along a heart-stopping 15 kilometers of winding waterways carved between steep mountains with ribbons of colossal waterfalls (the Bridal Veil) rocketing into the Geirangerfjord spectacle.

The cruise stopped in many darling towns along the way to, but this story will cruise past the towns and begin at the Arctic Circle. We sailed into the Arctic Circle one morning with such excitement. There is a large globe perched on a tiny atoll to mark the point of passage and as is customary, King Neptune, in full regalia, presided over the event outside on the main deck. Passengers of all ages willingly lined up while the king ladled ice down their necks then happily received a shot of Aquavit (spirit distilled from potatoes and flavored with caraway) Skol! We were in the Arctic Circle at the top of the world.

Rafting the Maelstrom

Just north of the Arctic Circle we arrived in Bodo, the sea eagle capital of the world to begin our excursion with the RIB water-rafting safari in Saltstraumen.

Photo by Karen Hamlin We pulled on the waterproof gear provided and under an overcast sky, tottered into large inflatable boats. Attempting to toss one leg over a log shaped seat that held passengers in a tight conga line separated by metal arches was an exercise that many found challenging. Once all twelve passengers were arranged satisfactorily, like sardines sitting upright, the raft bolted toward the sea.

Rushing towards one of the world’s most powerful tidal pools, we slowed momentarily to watch little puffins sunbathing on the Caledonian belt fold, where the mountains are over 250 million years old. Soaring high above were a dozen white-tailed eagles with wing-spans of six feet. Unfortunately, they flew so high, you couldn’t appreciate their true grandeur.

Continuing on at full throttle, our boat weaved around the many whirlpools that could have sucked our boat in, had it not been for the skill of our guide. It was a smooth ride regardless of how rough the water was, no bouncing around at all despite thirteen billion cubic feet of water forcing itself back and forth through the narrow passage four times a day. The thrill of Nature’s power swirled above and below us.

The Viking Feast

We cruised into Stamsund in the Lofoten Islands to experience the Viking life. On this windswept island, we entered the recreated Chieftain’s house for a Viking feast in the banquet hall. In the dimly lit hall, a fire glowed in the center as the family in costume introduced themselves before pouring home-brewed mead or honey wine (made by fermenting honey with yeast) for their guests. Traditional fare of reindeer meat and root vegetables were served followed by folk singing that was unlike any I was familiar with: It was a high pitched tone with no words. It was interesting, but not quite the raucous Viking feast I was expecting.

As we traveled further north, following the fjords, the air felt clear and sharp awakening the mind, clearing cobwebs and fog: Feeling alive. Passengers sat on cheap, blue plastic chairs on the deck wrapped tightly in blankets, watching the mountains sweep by as the snow trickled down them like milk.

Continuing our journey, we arrived in Honningsvag, the most northern community in Finnmark, toward the 71st parallel — the North Cape. Joining a bird watching safari, we sailed into the little fishing village of Gjesvaer to a nature reserve. As the day became sunny and cottony clouds lingered on the mountain peaks, conditions were perfect for spotting Red-beaked puffins, flocks of kittiwake and swooping white-tailed eagles.

Norway may be happy to keep a low profile, but it shoule be a high priority destination for tourists.

Further Information: Hurtigruten Cruise Line