Whether for a vacation or simply a weekend get-away, cosmopolitan Montreal has it all--- some of the best of the past and present, and diversity and diversions to suit all tastes and budgets.

Background
Founded in 1642 as Ville Marie de Montreal by French missionaries hoping to spread Catholicism to the native population, the port city of Montreal became an important fur trading center and base for continued western explorations. The 19th century immigration--primarily from England, Scotland, and IrelandC brought an expanded labor force. The Lachine Canal, Industrial Revolution, and Canadian Pacific Railway boosted productivity and trade. Montreal, prospering in its Golden Age, became the commercial and economic center and capital of Canada. Mansions were built at the foot of the mountain in such areas as Outremont and WestmontCand many of those in the Golden Square Mile are now part of the beautiful McGill University campus. Opened to the world as the site of the international World's Fair, Expo '67, and the 1976 Summer Olympics, and enlivened by a large student population, Montreal has evolved into today's dynamic, historic, and multicultural city, attracting millions of visitors annually.

Language
Montreal is the second-largest French-speaking city in the world. Use a little of the official language. Bonjour, bonsoir, and merci will be well-received and will give you the sense of being worlds away. Most people are bilingual, and English is spoken widely.

Living in History
Meander the streets of Old Montreal. See artists and artisans at work, search for that perfect painting, or simply watch street performers as you sip cafe au lait along Place Jacques-Cartier. Charming by day, at night gaslights glow and the architectural treasures are highlighted with a specially-designed illumination system. Stop at a boite a chanson, or French cabaret, like Deux Pierrots, for some Quebecois melodies.

To best experience what this once-walled city has to offer, opt for an auberge, a Continental-style inn, in the heart of Old Montreal. Elegant 18th and 19th structures of this historic district--former homes, shops, and warehouses-- have been restored to reflect their original grandeur.

Auberge Bonaparte was our retreat to another place and time. It's a four-star gem with Old World charm and modern refinements with rooms above Bonaparte, a top-notch classic French restaurant with an extensive bill of fare including a delectable six-course tasting menu and budget-pleasing Table d'Hote (3-4 course specials). Furnishings are in the Louis-Philippe style, bathrooms are marble, and robes are soft and fluffy. The rooftop terrace overlooks the city. A scrumptious breakfast -- fruit, crepes, omelets (try the spinach and brie) and croissants, is included. For that special getaway, splurge for the suite with a balcony overlooking the gardens of Notre Dame Basilica.

The Centaur Theater features English-language plays, and Notre Dame offers concerts, both just a few steps away. A more casual sister property, Auberge Les Passants du Sans Soucy, accessed through one of the area=s many art galleries, is located just around the corner on historic Rue St. Paul, a treasure trove of architecture, shopping, museums, and international dining choices.

The area is easily explored on foot. Streets run parallel to the river and numbers are given as east or west of Saint-Laurent Boulevard, The Main, traditionally separating the English- and French-speaking districts.

This is the first time I was ever in a city where you couldn't throw a brick without breaking a church window. Yet I was told you are going to build one more... Mark Twain, during his first visit to Montreal, 1881.

A visit to Montreal would not be complete without a stop at the magnificent Gothic Revival Basilica of Notre Dame. Tours are in French or English, and at night a sound and light show, And then, there was Light, highlights the features and heritage of this masterpiece.

Climb the steps of the steeple of Notre Dame de Bon Secours, or Sailors' Church, the city's oldest stone chapel, to the highest publicly accessible view of Old Montreal. The adjacent Marguerite Bourgeoys Museum portrays Montreal's first teacher and Amerindian life.

Want to dig deeper into the history of the area? Pointe à Callière, Montreal's Museum of Archaeology and History, is built on the excavated area where the first settlers traded with natives. A multimedia show projected atop the ruins precedes a guided tour.

Walk in the footsteps of the rich and famous. Benedict Arnold and Benjamin Franklin visited Chateau Ramazay, originally the residence of the 11th governor. It is now an historical showcase with stunning carved mahogany, gardens, and displays of early everyday life.

Here, fast food comes with a side of history. McDonald's is in the former home of Sieur Antoine Laumet de La Mothe Cadillac, who founded a colony in what is now the city of Detroit.

The promenade at the lively Old Port of Montreal is a great place to stroll along the St. Lawrence. Take a sightseeing or dinner cruise in a Parisian-style riverboat.

And More
Walking is a great way to experience the city, buses and cabs are plentiful, and the Metro is clean and convenient. Three and seven day transportation passes are a good value. The Montreal Museum Pass, available at and tourist information centers and some hotels, includes 3 consecutive day admission to 32 museums and other attractions and can be combined with a transportation pass.

The site of the 1976 Summer Olympics features a funicular that ascends the tallest (575’ at a 45º angle!) inclined tower in the world. Adjacent is Biodome, with four recreated climates and ecosystems of the Americas. The Botanical Gardens and Insectarium are a short walk or free shuttle away.

The Islands across the St. Lawrence were the setting of the 1967 World's Fair, and Expo '67. Biosphere, a center for environmental education, occupies the spherical former American pavilion designed by Buckminster Fuller. The former French and Quebec pavilions have been transformed into the government-operated Casino, replete with 5 Diamond AAA rated restaurant.

St. Joseph's Oratory, on Mount Royal, was the dream of Brother Andre, a humble doorkeeper whose devotion to St. Joseph led to his being regarded as a miracle worker. The dome is second in height only to St. Peter's in Rome. Inside are Louis Parent's religious woodcarvings.

Montreal's only remaining fort is on Île St. Helene. In summer, the Stewart Museum's collection is enlivened with costumed interpreters and re-enactments of 18th century military drills with French soldiers and Scottish bagpipers.

Rainbow-colored flags and the columns above the entrance to Beaudry metro station signify The Village. Quebec was among the first to forbid discrimination based on sexual orientation, and the mood is one of recognition and acceptance of diversity. A hub of gay life, The Village has become an entertainment and tourism center with fashionable boutiques, antiques, trendy restaurants, nightclubs and bars.

And don't forget Montreal's Underground City, a 20 mile climate-controlled network of pedestrian walkways with Metro stations, shops, banks, restaurants and cinemas, linking major buildings and shopping centers without having to go outside.

Gastronomic Paradise
With a variety of ethnic neighbourhoods, Montreal cuisine is a cultural cornucopia as diverse as its population. Explore public markets, like Atwater or Jean-Talon in Little Italy, for fresh produce, breads, cheeses, and Quebec wine or ice cider for a picnic.

Try croissants and cafe au lait at a boulangerie. Fairmount and St-Viateur, named for their street locations, are the best known bakeries for Montreal bagels. Landmark Schwartz Charcuterie on St. Laurent is a favorite for Montreal's smoked meats. Sample poutine, the French fries with gravy and cheese curds. Trendy and popular Au Pied de Cochon features traditional Quebecois fare.

Restaurant districts include Duluth Street and the Plateau area (many are BYOB), and, day or night, terraces along Crescent, Saint-Denis and Saint-Laurent Boulevards.

For some of the city's finest gastronomic experiences, try Nuances or Toque for dinner, and the opulent St. James Hotel for afternoon tea.

Festivals
With over 90 a year, Montreal is known as the City of Festivals, with something for everyone. Flora Montreal, International Fireworks Competition, International Jazz Festival, Just for Laughs Festival, International Film Festival, and Grand Prix Canada are but a few.

For More Information visit Tourisme-Montreal.org or call 1-877-BONJOUR (266-5687)

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An avid traveler with an interest in international relations, Linda Fasteson views travel as the best way to better understand the people and places around us. Linda is a member of NATJA and a contributor to Travelworld International Magazine, Offbeat Travel, So Go Now, Real Travel Adventures International, to CNHI newspapers, and is the Contributing Feature Writer on travel for the wire served Explore Magazine, a monthly magazine for active adults.

© 2006

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