When there wouldn't be anything more challenging to think about than badminton and being rowed across the lake by a beau. In our fantasies we sleep in carved wood beds with lacy doilies on oak furniture, eat in spacious dining rooms overlooking the mountains. The pace of life so unhurried that there's time to stroll through the woods, and sit peacefully gazing at the water.

We found such a place. We went to Mohonk Mountain House, a national historic landmark, listed in the National Trust for Historic Preservation as a Historic Hotel of America

Serenity begins

The mood begins when driving slowly up the mountain on the narrow one-lane road. Mohonk is located on over 2000 acres at the top of the Shawangunk Ridge. It's difficult to stay uptight and tense when all you see are woods and all you hear are chirping birds and rustling leaves. We found ourselves sighing and beginning to relax (we were also thankful we weren't making the drive in the dark).

The hotel itself is a huge rambling collection of attached and wonderfully varied architectural styles located at one end of a half-mile long mountain lake surrounded by sheer cliffs. Despite its size, once you're inside Mohonk manages to feel intimate and cozy. Perhaps it is the 4pm tea that sets the tone. Or the well-tended plants. Or the small nooks and parlors, filled with well-polished wood, and comfortable chairs and couches, or the fires burning cheerfully (in winter). There is no bar at Mohonk House, or raucous game rooms off the lobby. In short, we could pretend it was the turn of the century, only with indoor plumbing.

Victorian hideaway

Most hotel rooms are best left undescribed, but not the rooms at Mohonk. When we visited in August the room was small but lovely, with a porch (complete with rocking chair) overlooking the valley. The room was furnished with a solid oak antique (reproduction) desk, upholstered chair and dresser with lace doily. Although it didn't have air conditioning (and it was in the middle of a heat wave), there was a door onto a tiny terrace, a ceiling fan, and all the windows opened. We could honestly say that it wasn't hot. In fact, we thought it perfect. For our next visits in early winter the rooms had a fireplace with a large supply of wood. Few things can match sitting in bed reading a Victorian murder mystery while watching the flames dancing in the fireplace.

Hiking and more

Although Mohonk does have lots of activities (horseback riding, tennis, swimming in the lake, sunning on the docks, boating, stables, with ice-skating coming soon), the real lure for many is the hiking. You can hike by yourself or join one of the guided walks. The leader was friendly, knowledgeable, and enthusiastic.

The trails range from paved roads up gentle slopes to hang-by-your-fingers climbs, with everything in between. They circle the lake, and wind their way up and down the mountains. Many have breath-taking views, and gazebos so you can just sit and watch the clouds, or notice how each layer of mountain rises higher and more blue in the distance. Or look down on the lake bordered with sheer white cliffs. Perched on a sturdy but rustic bench we watched in the stillness as a bird glided and banked on unseen air currents, and felt the world and reality drop away.

The other favored activity is rocking on one of the large public porches overhanging the lake. It's a lovely place to sit and sketch the activity on the dock. Or, bring a book, newspaper but don't expect to do serious reading. Instead you may find yourself chatting with the person rocking next to you. Mohonk is an inviting place with dedicated visitors. It's not unusual to find folks who have been coming for 20 years or more. On one visit we met a man who has been coming up for over 40 years. He knows more of the old trails than are listed in the current trail map. He offered to share his knowledge but we demurred not being quite as interested as he in rugged hiking.

The tennis courts have been resurfaced and look very inviting. The outdoor ice rink has been completed and sits a short walk up the mountain. With its rough rock walls and huge walk-in fireplace it looks like a natural part of the winter landscape. They've also just opened (August, 2005) their 30,000-square-foot Spa wing, also carved into the stone overlooking the lake. It offers has treatment rooms, fitness center, steam, sauna, and an outdoor heated mineral pool and indoor heated swimming pool. And, in a major shift, there's now a cocktail lounge serving alcoholic beverages (as well as hot and cold hor d'oeuvres).

The evening entertainment at Mohonk is mainly from a wide range of theme weekends. We had come up for the Gloria Rosenthal's Wonderful World of Words which she has been running for almost 20 years. Gloria is energetic and warm and her activities well-planned and very enjoyable.

Finally, for those who go can't go anywhere without checking their email there are a few public terminals.

Breakfast is a hearty buffet, and was my favorite meal. Fruit, cereal, sausage, bacon, pancakes, waffles, and a selection of rotating specials like breakfast burritos and more. Lunch and dinner are regular sit-down meals with a variety of choices including a meat, fish, chicken, and vegetarian. There are also kid-friendly entrees.

Ah, the good life. We sampled it at Mohonk.