Molokini

Sunrise cruises to this submerged crater offer magnificent underwater island vistas. The crew distributes snorkel gear, including masks with prescription lenses and wet suits. Much of the sight-seeing can take place above water as gigantic cetaceans (whales) leap from the ocean spouting flumes of mist and slam back into it again. Often flying fish add their less splashy performances.

As our catamaran anchors inside Molokini, co-captain Dan demonstrates safety and water critter sign language. He ultimately croons an adapted Dean Martin classic, Put your hand in the crack and you don’t get it back... that’s a moray! We laugh though plan to be out of hands and arms way of moray eels. Dan grins offering buoyant five-foot neon noodles to those less confident swimmers.

Like underwater bird watchers, several aquanauts loop marine I.D. cards over their wrists. I wear my shirt in the water, which displays 30 of 250 distinctive local fish. About 57 of these vibrant beauties live only in Hawaii’s isolated waters.

The old crater’s rim embraces a diverse marine community with water visibility to 48 metres. Slipping into Molokini’s refreshing water, we swim with kaleidoscopes of dazzling fish. I identify black durgons, tangs, unicornfish, pufferfish, and several kinds of butterflyfish and angelfish. Exotic celebrities parade below. Whiskered yellowfin goatfish scavenge the very bottom. Red squirrelfish peek out of rock cavities. Spotting a chocolate brown octopus meditating among some lobe coral, my daughter is excited and delighted.

Manele Bay

Some catamarans slip across the wide channel to Lana’i, the former pineapple island and always the best place to sight dolphins. For those prone to sea-sickness, these double hulled boats are both stable and fast. Many are equipped with sonar microphones to listen to whale divas sing lengthy and booming arias.

This longer excursion not only provides more up close encounters with whales but short detours are made to witness the huge social interactions between mamas, babies, and escorting males. The family stays very close as the hungry tyke requires two gallons of her thick milk every three to four hours.

At the edge of Manele Bay, we view Sweetheart Rock memorializing Hawaii’s Romeo and Juliet tale. It is said that stricken with a Maui princess’s beauty, a Lanai warrior brought her to live with him in a nearby sea cave. When she tragically drowned, he buried her atop this 80-foot rock; then heartbroken, leapt to his death.

A pod of over one hundred spinner dolphins romp inside Manele Bay. True to their name, they corkscrew up out of the water. Though captains must keep their vessels at a distance, these pink-bellied dolphins love to ride in their wake.

Both rugged black lava cliffs and Hawaiian law protects Manele Bay. Designated as a marine sanctuary, its deep clear waters team with large, diverse colorful fish. Among the familiar piscine beauties, I discover several species that are new to me. To me, this is marine nirvana.

Olawalu

Some glass-bottomed catamarans stop at “Coral Gardens” below Maui’s leeward cliffs. Inspired at what we’d seen on one such trip, we drive back later in the day parking at mile marker 14. Off Olawalu’s narrow beach, flippers propel us through the deep channel’s crystaline waters to the outer edge of this magnificent shoreline reef.

Maluaka Beach

Just beyond posh Wailea lays another popular dive site off secluded Maluaka Beach. After an easy swim south through the frothy surf, we arrive in “Turtle Town” gliding alongside a well-shelled resident. Yellow striped sergeant fish surround us as we investigate this underwater area’s famed lava arches. Beyond two raccoon butterflyfish, my son spies a huge turtle resting under a rock ledge. Turtles can nap for two hours underwater.

Ahihi Bay

That same southern coastal road continues past Makena Beach to Ahihi Bay marine sanctuary. Knee deep, I find a flat rock to slip on my fins then dash through the murky shallows into its sublime depths. Maui’s last recorded lava flows created this holey preserve of crags and crevices. Off limits to fishing, the piscine inhabitants thrive. Passing through a school of butterflyfish, we spot another green turtle grazing on seaweed. Further ahead, reminiscent of a scarlet macaw, a parrotfish pecks at finger coral.

Kaanapali

Two northern beaches offer consistent terrific conditions for snorkeling. Calm crystal waters regularly surround Kaanapali’s Black Rock. Immersed off this popular chunk of lava we hold our breath listening to distant cetaceans, likely male humpback escorts serenading females with haunting melodies. The revered green turtles love this location as well. My son jokes about underwater paparazzi snapping pictures of these docile mammals. Swimming ashore, I watch a peacock flounder rippling along the sandy bottom.

Kapalua Bay

Outstretched lava arms embrace this extraordinary marine haven with crystal clear water. Triggerfish fish welcome us along with flamboyant wrasses and yellow trumpetfish. Shyly retreating along Kapalua’s shallow rocky edge my son points at a rocklike fish squatting on the sandy bottom. As I try to name this grey-brown lump sporting striped red and yellow fins I see another eel and burble, Pointy teeth, beady eyes! Gnarly eel! Careful guys! That’s a moray!

You never know what you’ll discover amidst Maui’s finny fauna – and it’s no wonder snorkeling ranks as Maui’s number one activity.

Cautions

In addition to water safety, beware of that fire-ball above us, which can inflict serious sunburns and even sunstrokes. Water resistant SPF 15 filters 92% of sizzling UVB rays but it loses potency after two hours. So I wear a t-shirt in the water as an extra safeguard.

When wading into the ocean, you’ll often find it easier to wear only your mask and snorkel when going into the surf. You can then put on your fins in the deeper water.

If you go:
Pacific Whale Foundation provides good introduction with cruises to Molokini and Lanai. Visit them as PacificWhale.org

Trilogy catamarans sail to Maui and Lanai Hawaii for scuba diving, snorkeling and whale watching. Visit them at SailTrilogy.com

Maui Ocean Centre Aquariums offer dry orientations to Hawaiian marine life at MauiOceanCenter.com

At Snorkel Bob’s or one of the island’s many dive shops you can pick up a Free Maui Dive Guides as a further introduction to terrific snorkeling areas.

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