Formerly part of Yugoslavia, the country of Slovenia is small in size -- making it easy to explore -- but covering a diversity of enchantments. Wine trails, Alpine villages, fairy tale castles, caves, and luxe hotels, are all within an easy drive of each other. And, the capital city of Ljubljana stands as its own destination.

Entering Ljubljana

Hovering over the Joze Pucnik Airport I saw red tiled roofed houses among cultivated fields punctuated by tight clusters of woods. The beautiful agrarian tableau was surrounded by low mountains.

As we left the airport, we passed tidy houses, each surrounded by gardens and grape arbors. It was autumn and the leaves were a riot of color. It was another beautiful tableau.

But by the time we reached the outskirts of the city there were unadorned concrete apartment buildings in shades of grey. I thought “oh, no! Was this to be a city constructed during the days of communist block buildings passing as architecture?”

In fact, as I soon discovered, Ljubljana is a gracious historic city whose architecture embraces a diversity of style, and all of it elegant and charming.

A Bit of Background

The history of the city reads like a tug-of-war between conquering and occupying forces. Romans, Huns, and more came and went. During World War II the city escaped destruction largely the result of its strong resistance movement. Italian occupiers erected a barbed wire barrier, intending to cut the city off from the outside world and choke its resistance movement. Turned into a prison, there was no strategic reason to bomb the city. Today that line has become a walking path that surrounds Ljubljana. Look for the signposts and plaques reading "POT."

The architecture of the city also fascinates. After an earthquake in 1511 destroyed much of Ljubljana, it was rebuilt in Renaissance style. Later on, Baroque architecture was overlaid. In 1895, another earthquake, and another architectural style added to the rich tapestry of the city.

These older architectural styles are now peacefully punctuated by the work of Joze Plecnik. Although born in Ljubljana, he spent much of his early career designing in Prague. In 1921 he moved back to the city of his birth and began to slowly redesign and rebuild parts of the city, adding his distinctive and graceful vision.

The Delights of Ljubljana

It’s early Saturday morning, not quite 10AM, and the bells are ringing like a mad carillon. People are returning from market carrying their purchases. The cafes are setting up for lunch and the afternoon. Some cafes already have their regulars talking and gesticulating. Book sellers have set up stalls along one of the wide pedestrian bridges across the river.

The people love their city, and their outdoor living. Cafes line the cobblestone streets along the river. Even grey mornings don’t stop them – outdoor heaters keep diners and drinkers warm.

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© 2009