Guernsey Channel Islands: History, Beauty, and More

Guernsey, located 75 miles south of mainland Britain and 27 miles from France's north coast, is the second largest of the Channel Islands. This incredibly beautiful island surrounded by flat and steep-cliff coastlines, rolling fields, small parishes and large marinas is a traveler's dream. Within the island's 24 square miles, there are 10 parishes and a population of about 60,000.

The Bailiwick of Guernsey along with the smaller islands of Herm, Sark and Alderney is not part of the UK but is self-governing and loyal to the British Crown. Moreover, Guernsey has its own currency and stamps but uses British pounds as well.

Biking, Hiking and Hedge-Veg Boxes

Several of the most popular activities on the island are coastal and nature trail walking tours and biking. Due to the varied terrain of coastlines and countryside with low traffic and top speed of 35 mph, the island is perfect for setting out on foot or bike and exploring.

On the south side of the island lovely (high bank) hedgerows that are made of stone and earth are covered in greenery and wildflowers; they encircle fields, pastures and properties providing the functionality of a fence but are ultimately more picturesque. However, one of the more charming aspects along the rural roads and into the neighborhoods is Hedge-Veg boxes. These square wooden structures are found all over the island and are filled with flowers, books, cheeses, eggs and assorted goods that the island residents sell on the honor system. It is fun just to see what different goods pop up in the boxes while riding through the gorgeous countryside and admiring the granite-stone homes and manors with flower-filled gardens that look like storybook cottages.

In fact, with the temperate climate, Guernsey looks rather like an English fairy garden all over the island, especially through spring and summer. And, make sure to try the famous dairy products in Guernsey; their golden cows and goats produce a rich milk that, when turned into butter, yields a deep yellow hue that is luscious.

History from World War II to Ancient Places

Guernsey has not always been a serene environment and a testament to this is found all along the coastlines with battlements and bunkers from World War II. The German military occupation of Guernsey and the Channel Islands lasted from June 30th 1940 until May 9th 1945, or Liberation Day.

This period of military occupation was extremely difficult on the islanders. With the advent of the invasion, many residents had to send their children and family members (about 17,000 people evacuated) to England for safety. Then many islanders were often forced from their homes when the officers commandeered the houses as military bases. Food became scarce especially towards the end of the occupation and many would have died if the Red Cross had not been able to get through. It was a grim time for Guernsians but the islanders are made of stern stuff and they recovered their way of life and flourished. Today, many of the remnants from the occupation have been kept for historical education and are open for the public to visit, such as gun turrets, underground bunkers, the German Occupation Museum and the German Military Underground Hospital and Ammunition Store and several additional and interesting museums with loads of WWII artifacts.

The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society is a bestseller fictional book written about the occupation on Guernsey, but many of the accounts were taken from fact. Authors Mary Ann Shaffer and Annie Barrows wrote the book after diligent research and speaking with islanders who lived through the period. The "book" as islanders call it, has shed light on the unique circumstances of an island occupation and the ways people lived and coped with the invasion. Although Guernsians have mixed feelings about the book, it has indeed brought many visitors to the island to visit locations that appear in the story, such as Sausmarez and St. Martin. The book is intriguing and a must-read, especially if you are interested in Guernsey or the WWII occupation.

Another intriguing aspect of Guernsey are the Dolmens, or pre-Christian burial sites, from the Neolithic period, that are scattered about the island. These underground grave chambers vary in size with granite capstones that cover the narrow passages and low-ceilinged hollows. Numerous artifacts were discovered in the Dolmens and now reside in the Island's museums (Guernsey Museum and Art gallery). One of the Dolmens named the Le Gardien du Tombeau or Gaurdian of the Tomb is especially interesting with the carving of a face and upper body that peers down from the capstone ceiling into the chamber.

St. Peter Port, Capital of Guernsey

St. Peter Port is the capitol of Guernsey and is located on the east side of the island. The city is bordered by a deep harbor and is where most of the commerce, shopping and main museums are located. St. Peter Port is appealing with its French and British influenced architecture and gardened terraces over-looking the sea and ship filled marina. The scenic and popular area has been home to notables, such as Victor Hugo and is where he wrote his famous book Les Misérables.

The town's streets meander in an uphill fashion from the port with captivating antiques stores, boutiques and unique shops, as well as brand-name designers. Walk to the top or take a bus (only 60 pence to take a bus on the island) to visit the Guernsey Museum and Art Gallery, located in Candie Gardens. It features their absorbing story of Guernsey that starts with the Neolithic period and progresses through time, and the Cabinet of Curiosities established by Victorian gentlemen collectors. The museum is a must, and when you have finished your tour, visit their Cafe Victoria with views of the lovely gardens for scones, teas, coffees, homemade fare and the traditional Guernsey Gâche; it is a delicious local fruit bread severed with Guernsey butter.

For stellar views and great photo ops, walk a few blocks from the Guernsey Museum and visit the Victoria Tower. To walk to the top however, you will need to ask for the key from the Guernsey Museum that unlocks the tower's door. The Victoria Tower was built in the mid-19th century to symbolize the island's links to the British Crown and to commemorate Queen Victoria and Prince Albert's visit to Guernsey and the post where the tower resides.

St. Martin for Lodging and Views

Each parish on the island offers a different landscape, attractions and unique neighborhood. The parish of St. Martin, located south of St. Peter Port resides mainly on a high plateau with cliffs that overlook the south coast bays. The coastal views are so impressive they even inspired Renoir.

This lovely town is one of the best places to walk by the lanes and admire the homes, architecture, shops and Sausmarez Manor and Art Park Gardens. Sausmarez Manor is set amongst beautiful grounds and gardens accented with art and sculpture that the public can walk through and enjoy with several special art shops, snacks, tea. In summer, a large famer's market that sells everything from gourmet chocolates to English bone china and local produce sets up on the grounds adjacent to the gardens. It is also one of the locations in the Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie society.

St. Martin is also home to the outstanding Bella Luce Hotel. The Bella Luce is our top pick for hotels in Guernsey. The hotel was originally built as a Norman manor house with parts of the hotel dating back to the 12th century. Today, the Bella Luce is a gorgeous boutique hotel set amidst manicured gardens and a tranquil setting. Their restaurant is excellent and the rooms are well-appointed and light-filled. The hotel imbues an elegant decor but is completely comfortable and is in a perfect location to explore St. Martin and St. Peter Port, as well as take a coastal or nature walk.

Guernsey is unique and the environment is awe-inspiring, as are the people who live there. With a wide variety of sites, attractions and natural beauty, the island resonates with all who visit. For additional information on Guernsey, visit VisitGuernsey.com. For additional information on Guernsey Museums, visit Museums.Gov.GG

Helpful Information
The island is easy to get to with direct flights from England's Gatwick and Stansted, plus nine UK regional airports with four different airlines: Aurigny Air Services Flybe, Blue Islands, and Air Southwest. In addition, visitors can arrive by ferry from Britain's mainland and from north-west France, CondorFerries

For in-depth Guernsey island tours that are fun and fascinating, go with one of the top guides on the island, Gill Girard.

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