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Genoa, Italy: Home of Columbus and much more

I was in Barcelona and sea travel beckoned -- an overnight ferry to Genoa in Italy. As becomes the birth town of the great Christopher Columbus, I thought it most appropriate to approach the capital of Liguria by sea.

Sightseeing in Genoa

Genoa was the venue of the Expo 92 and, more recently, became to European Capital of Culture 2004. This has done wonders for the improvement and restoration of a marvelous Italian city which is full of history, Medieval and Renaissance buildings, narrow picturesque alleys lined with shops and trattorias, Baroque churches, a thriving sea port and much more which is a great incentive to spend a few days in a place which is often bypassed by tourists on their way to more famous places like Rome, or Florence. The advantage is, that you don’t find many umbrella touting tourist guides and I had the pleasure of visiting the fabulous Doges Palace with exactly four other people

My first act was to walk down Via Balbi and stop at the Royal Palace. Built between 1643 and 1655 by two famous Genovese families, it got its name from the fact that in 1823 it was sold to the King of Savoy who used it as his private residence. Beautiful furniture, carvings, carpets, chandeliers and works of art can be admired in the palace and give you a first taste of the countless treasure to be visited in Genoa, topped by the Palace of the Doge located near Genoa’s most important square, Piazza de Ferrari.

If you get a map of Genoa, you will see that there are 50 palaces alone, not to mention churches and museums as well as more modern day sights.

From Via Balbi I turned right towards the port area. The port of Genoa is unique as it is the only major port in Europe which is practically in the city itself. Modern condo buildings and small shopping malls form a part of the port area as well as a movie prop: the vessel used in Roman Polanski’s film ‘Pirates’.

Of international acclaim is the Aquarium of Genoa with an enormous collection of fish and sea life as well as a sanctuary for injured fish and a biotope in front which is brilliantly illuminated at night.

You can embark on a sightseeing boat tour around the harbor which brings you to one of Genoa’s landmarks: La Lanterna, a lighthouse of 77 m standing on a 40m high rock, built in 1543 but rumored to have had a predecessor as early as the 1100.

I also took a city tour in a 12 seater open little bus to get an overview of the city, something I normally don’t do but enjoyed very much because of the reduced number of passengers and the really good explanations you can listen to with your earphones.

If after all that history and art you fancy a spot of shopping: no better place than Via Roma and Via XX Settembre, the latter adorned with beautiful inlaid marble mosaic pavements. Both streets can easily compete with Milan as far as chic shops and boutiques are concerned.

Genoa is a university town which means that you find a plethora of inexpensive eateries where you must try the local specialty: pesto Liguria poured over any kind of pasta. Or pastries, or ice cream or paninis…the choice is endless and for as little as EUROS 7 you can fill your stomach. There is no shortage of sit down restaurants either, nobody goes hungry in Genoa.

Cinque Terre: Day trip from Genoa

Genoa is the capital of the province of Liguria and a fantastic daytrip is an excursion to Cinque Terre, best done by train. The route leads along the picturesque Ligurian coast with steep cliffs and crashing rocks to a collection of five villages: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore which in turn are part of the Cinque Terre National Park, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The villages which consist of houses and fields, carefully carved in terraces out of the steep hillside, can only be reached by foot on winding paths, train or boat, but not by car from the outside which is part of the beauty and charm of the region.

With the exception of ruins, temples and statues of antiquity, Genoa has it all, but in a much more tranquil and manageable environment than other more famous Italian sites. Step out into Via Balbi and immediately you feel part of the locals, who by the way, are very friendly and helpful if you need to ask directions. I’ll certainly be back.

If You Go:
Depending on where you are, there are many possibilities to each Genoa. I went by over night ferry from Barcelona, run by the Italian company GRANDI NAVI VELOCI. The voyage takes 20 hours and I was very comfortably ensconced on the Sky Deck in a sleeping chair which cost me EUROS 80. There are restaurants, bars, shops and even a tiny pool, which, given that it was April wasn’t filled. Genoa also has two major train stations which connect the city to the rest of Italy and beyond as well as an airport which is expanding international connections to Munich, Brussels, Madrid, Paris and even Istanbul. There is also the motorway. Where to stay I chose the Hotel Bellevue a small hotel right at the beginning of the historical center of Via Balbi. The entire street is a pedestrian area and a World Heritage Site. You can’t be any closer to the treasures of history. The hotel is also just two minutes walk from the train station Statione Piazza Principe with the great statue of Christopher Columbus in front. My room was a bit tiny, but comfortable enough, with (working) free wifi, a bathroom, and an ample breakfast included in the price of EUROS 60 for a single.

Born in Germany, Inka Piegsa-Quischotte has lived and worked as an international attorney in Spain, Switzerland and the UK for many years. Two years ago she turned novelist and travel writer and now lives between Miami and Istanbul as basis for her many journeys either West or East. Her articles have been published in GoNomad, The Expeditioner, Literary Traveler, Travel with a Challenge, Europe up Close, Neos Kosmos newspaper, Lighthouse Digest and In The Know Traveler among others. She contributes regularly to Europe a la carte and is the Beirut expert for NileGuide. Her personal travel blog is called GlamourGrannyTravels.com

© 2011