As commonplace as these things were, however, the real intrigue was found hidden away in the pages of the National Geographic Magazine. You may know that, in the absence of Playboy, many young boys checked out the magazine for the chance to sneak glances at bare breasted women from varying cultures around the world. I can't remember if that's what first drew me to this wonderful magazine, but I do know that the fascinating photos, stories and adventures that I discovered instilled a desire to visit everyplace in the world. I wanted to see every mountain, every river, every country and every different kind of person that lived in every one of these most exotic places.

The Galapagos Islands have long been among the top destinations that I have always known I would someday visit. The excitement of learning that I would finally achieve this long dreamed of goal not only got my pulse racing, but prompted me to begin thinking about what I would need to do to make this a perfect trip.

But first, let me tell you about the islands and the wonderfully strange and exotic creatures you will find there. Very likely your first encounter will be with a dark and ferocious looking marine iguana lazing in the sun surrounded by bright red Sally Lightfoot crabs. The iguanas spend a lot of time feeding in the water and need to spend time warming themselves in the sun in preparation for the next water excursion. But, they're not ferocious at all and will most likely just ignore you, even if you get up very close for a photo. Or they'll just scurry off into the water. The colorful Sally Lightfoots will let you take a few good pictures, then sidle away when they think you have enough. Very considerate.

I traveled from island to island on the motor yacht Flamingo, one of three almost identical craft operated by Ecoventura and Galapagos Network. With only about 18 or so passengers and two naturalists we normally split into two manageable groups for shore excursions. With our guide leading the way we were able to get very close to observe the amazing boobies, both blue footed and red footed, marine and land iguanas, giant tortoises, sea lions and, believe it or not, penguins. Yes, there are penguins on the equator.

Each morning I was awakened by the voice of our guide on the in-room speaker extolling the virtues of his home - the Galapagos Islands. And I was never disappointed. Each landing was by small boat carrying only 8 or 10 people including the guide. Each day was a day of discovery. Some mornings offered an opportunity to swim with the sea lions. It seemed prudent to stay away from the great, large beachmasters - the bulls guarding their harems and their portion of the beach. But those few aside, the curious sea lions that surrounded me as I swam and snorkeled were playful and amazing. One pair actually encircled me, swimming end to end in a perfect arc with me in the center! When snorkeling, some would swim directly into my face, then suddenly dive to prevent a collision. I was thankful for that since I would have been the loser in an impact with an extremely rapid sea lion. In the water they are sleek and dark. When they go ashore to sun themselves on the beach, the fur dries and they become a beautiful camel color.

One of the wonderful things about the Galapagos is the relative lack of fear or trepidation that the animals have regarding humans. They seem to know they are protected and that we mean them no harm. It would be tempting to touch and pet many of the animals but our guides have made it very clearly that it is not allowed.

There were ample opportunities for nature hikes with the eco guides. We walked on uninhabited islands and were able to see and photograph in a way that would be impossible almost anywhere else in the world outside of a zoo. The fierce looking but very docile land iguanas fed on great cactus pads while I placed my camera at ground level and focused in at very close range. To actually be able to experience this level of intimacy with so many varieties of wildlife was an extraordinary event. When we walked through a group of trees harboring red footed boobies with powder blue bills I could walk up and examine them from a foot or two away.

Watching great frigate birds in their courting ritual of puffing out the brilliant crimson sack in their necks was a sight I'll likely see no place else in the world. And seeing the baby chicks looking like large fluffy cotton balls with their gawky necks will be long remembered.

In this day and age of questions about evolution and intelligent design it seems only appropriate to visit the Galapagos - the islands that fostered this controversy. I won't take sides here, but watching a red billed tropic bird banging into a wall time after time while trying to fly into a tiny opening in a cliff wall makes you wonder. And watching the albatross trying to land on the edge of a cliff in the wind reminds you of a beginning pilot coming in for his first landing. After several passes, finally success.

I'm happy to know that the Galapagos are being so well protected. There is a concerted effort to limit the number of visitors at any one place at a time. And some of the local people have assisted greatly in the effort. The best example of this is probably the giant tortoises, some of which are viewed at private farms. They are allowed to "roam" freely about the farm and visitors can walk among them. They are magnificent animals who may live 100 years or longer. On the islands they have no natural predators, at least as adults. The eggs might be thought of as delicacies by some creatures. There are also research stations that help produce hundreds of the tortoises that can be released on several of the islands.

Most visitors begin their adventures either in Guayaquil or Quito. I chose Quito to see the old Colonial city and experience the 9,000+ feet altitude. I flew by way of Houston with a direct flight that allowed me to arrive in the evening and go directly to the Hilton Colon. Having had a good meal on the Continental flight I was able to retire immediately on arrival and awaken fresh and relaxed for my journey to the Galapagos Islands the next day. Across the street from the Hilton where I stayed again after the cruise is a very large public park with a terrific craft market. My Christmas list was easily filled with a number of beautiful Alpaca scarves and sweaters. There is almost always a volleyball game going in the park as well. A great place to people watch.

At the western edge of Quito you can take a cable car to the top of the mountain and get a fabulous view of the city. Assuming, of course, that you can see down through the clouds. I picked a somewhat rainy day, but the breeze moved the clouds enough for a few rewarding glimpses.

As in many South American cities, there is a great statue of the Virgin to the South overlooking the valley to the north in which Quito lies. Kind of hard to think that at 9,000 feet you're actually standing in a valley. Directly below the Virgin lies the Colonial sector of Quito, a perfect place to walk and explore for hours or for days. I had only a couple of days, but walked for miles, often retracing steps to see something I missed because I was too close to it and did not grasp the beauty the first time. And don't mistake the Virgin for an angel just because she has wings. I didn't get an explanation for that - I'll leave that mystery for you to solve.

There is much more to see and do in Ecuador and I'll be back. Maybe I'll see you there.