Islamorada in the Florida Keys: Tropical delights close to home

Key Largo

Key Largo is the first of the sun-kissed islands that make up the Florida Keys. We're heading to the Key called Islamorada, but snorkelers will probably want to stop right here and visit the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. You don’t have to dive or snorkel to appreciate the park, there are also glass-bottom boat trips, boating, canoeing and kayaking among the water trails. Captain Spencer Slate at the Atlantis Dive Center (MM 106.5) also offers charters and snorkel tours.

As you pass through Key Largo, stop at Mile Marker (MM) 99.2 to admire the huge, 7,500-square-foot mural painted in 2007 by Wyland. The mural wraps around all four sides of a four-story building in the highway median. It was his 95th mural and it depicts a Florida Keys coral reef.

Islamorada Attractions

Many of the individual Keys have become known for their different specialties. Islamorada is famous for being the sport fishing capital, and we stop at Florida Key Outfitters to learn a little about casting under the expert attention of long-time Key resident Sandy Moret.

Windley Key Fossil Reef Geological State Park is one of the more unusual parks in the state. It's actually the old limestone quarry (fossilized coral) used by Henry Flagler when he was building his railroad down through the Keys in the early 1900s. Visitors can see where the cuts for the quarrying exposed the ancient coral, complete with fossilized imprints.

The Keys are home to several people and groups committed to saving injured wildlife. The most northern of these sanctuaries lies just south of Islamorada in the tiny Key of Tavernier.

The Florida Keys Wild Bird Center, mile marker (MM) 93.6 bayside, is the labor of love of Laura Quinn, affectionately known as the Bird Lady, who founded and runs the center.

The facility’s primary purpose is to rescue, rehabilitate and release ill, injured and orphaned wild birds, but in fact they end up feeding hungry birds who know to show up for food, and cats who have taken to calling the sanctuary home. The basic premise seems to be "feed the hungry." Local nurse sharks now show up since the bay has become too filed with fertilizer and farm runoff to support a healthy fish population.

Show up around 3PM daily and you can watch the wonderfully informal and sometimes chaotic feeding.

Scenes of Key Largo and Islamorada

The land itself is a mangrove swamp so a boardwalk takes visitors around the cages housing wild hawks, ospreys, spoonbills, egrets and more. At the end the bay spreads out just past the mangroves.

At the Theater of the Sea swim with dolphins, sea lions, and stingrays in natural salt water lagoons. Enjoy the lagoons, and lush, tropical gardens with the Atlantic bottlenose dolphins, California sea lions, sea turtles, tropical and game fish, sharks, stingrays, alligators, marine invertebrates, colorful parrots, and birds-of-prey.

When you're ready to turn to art, it's time to visit Stacie Krupa at MM 82.9 in Islamorada. Her bold colorful paintings of ocean life, people, and animals fill her gallery/art studio. Her distinctive style incorporates iridescent colors layered with drips and sparkles. Most are on the paintings, some are on the floor. Step carefully, every inch of the studio is covered with her vibrant art. You can usually find her working at the gallery and visitors are welcomed.

Food and Lodging

There is no shortage of lodging anywhere in the Keys, but the Pines and Palms Resort offers comfort, charm and the ocean in one tidy package. The cheery large one-room cabins include a bedroom area, open kitchen, and sunroom. Larger cottages with two and three bedrooms are also available.

For breakfast try the Green Turtle Inn with its emphasis on local and organic. Of course, you can get turtle soup (farm raised), but for breakfast stick with their pancakes, eggs, sausage and the finest grits you’ll ever have, creamy enough to be a cheese pudding. Their locally made lean sausage, pancakes with fresh mangoes and real maple syrup make this a food-lovers orgy.

Another local favorite for breakfast is the Islamorada Restaurant & Bakery - Bob’s Bunz at MM 81.6 Muffins, bunz (that would be buns) of all sizes and types. And who could resist a place that says “After all, they are the "BEST BUNZ IN TOWN"!”

For dinner try the Island Grill . This restaurant/bar is on the dock and boaters often can pull and park to enjoy the food and music. The tuna nachos were outstanding - fresh with a bit of a bite. There’s also an oddly named fish that is popular in the Keys - hogfish. Despite its unfortunate name it is a firm and delicious fish and has nothing to do with swine. The Hogfish with jerk seasoning and mango had a real bite which I enjoyed.

For dining literally on the beach head to Morada Bay Beach Café (MM 81.6) Naturally the specialty is seafood but there’s plenty of innovative dishes for every taste. And innovative drinks as well. Everything we tried was excellent. For me sitting with a good meal and a fine drink while watching the sunset is one of life’s true pleasures.

For more information on visiting the Keys go to Fla-Keys.com