Great places to stay

Marina Del Mar on Key Largo – This moderately priced resort is a favorite with boaters, fishermen and divers. A gaming vessel and various charters depart from the marina.

Looe Key Reef Resort & Dive Center on Ramrod Key – More a homey motor lodge than a resort, this property features a boat ramp and speedy access to Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary, which is known for its pristine reefs.

Cheeca Lodge & Spa on Islamorada – Offering luxurious accommodations with a casual ambience, Cheeca Lodge has a 60-year history of drawing celebrities and movers and shakers, including former president George Bush. www.cheeca.com Beachside Resort & Conference Center in Key West – The glamorous new five-star resort has its own private marina and beach plus some of the area's fine cuisine.

Great low-key Keys restaurants

Hungry Tarpon Restarant on Islamorada – The waterfront restaurant at Robbie's Marina is set in an old conch house. Don't miss the lobster bisque or feeding the tarpon before or after your meal.

Fish Tales Market & Eatery in Marathon – This fresh fish market isn't much to look at and has a limited dining area, but you will rarely find better seafood in the Keys.

Roof Top Café in Key West – The chic cafe specializes in serving new island cuisine accompanied by smooth jazz. It's a great location for a viewing Mallory Square's Sunset Celebration, and the evening sky.

Schooner Wharf Bar in Key West – This classic marina restaurant and bar features no-frills fresh seafood and the best in local entertainment, including singer songwriter Michael McCloud, who has developed his own cult following for good reason.

Don't miss

John Pennecamp Coral Reef State Park – The Key Largo-based park's underwater wonders can be seen via glass-bottom boat, diving and snorkeling tours. Hikers will enjoy walking the mangrove and tamarind trails. www.pennekamppark.com Theater of the Sea – This Islamorada marine mammal showcase first opened in 1946, and has maintained its family friendly charm. The daily line up includes dolphin, sea lion, stingray and parrot interactions and shows plus viewings sharks, alligators and sea turtles.

Dolphin Research Institute – Don't be fooled by the weathered exterior. Visitors to the dolphin interaction, education and research facility on Grassy Key leave amazed and awed by its marine mammals, including several of TV star Flipper's offspring.

Bahia Honda State Park – The Keys only has a few great beaches. One of the best is at Bahia Honda State Park. The park also provides kayaks and boat slip rentals. There's also a snorkeling boat tour to reefs in Looe Key State Park.

National Key Deer Refuge – Home to the tiny Key deer, the refuge on Big Pine Key features a blue-hole pond observation area and trails through hardwood hammocks. The deer are most active at dawn and dusk.

Pat Croce's Pirate Soul Museum – With the popularity of pirates these days following the "Pirates of the Caribbean" movies, this impressive new museum with its authentic artifacts and interactive exhibits is a "must see."

Sunset Celebration in Key West – About two hours every day before sunset, the Sunset Celebration begins at Mallory Square. Artists, food vendors, jugglers, musicians, tourists and locals gather to watch the sublime sunset.

If You Go
There is no bad time of year to visit the Keys. If you'd rather have more temperate weather, and are willing to pay high-season prices, go from mid- December through March. But those of us who don't mind the heat and like better pricing, visit April through early December.

If you visit The Keys during the late spring, summer or early fall you'll want to take care to avoid heat exhaustion, which can be life threatening. Drink plenty of fluids, especially water. Frozen drinks (watch the alcohol) will keep you cool as will stopping in air-conditioned museums, shops and the like during midday. To get where you need to go in a hurry to beat the heat, try a trolley, tour train or pedicab. (Your driver pedals while you sit back in a cushy seat.) The best approach to hot weather is to get wet. Swimming, snorkeling and diving are all good. If you're hiking or kayaking, try wetting down your hat and wearing a wet bandana around your neck. It works wonders.

For more information on the Florida Keys, visit www.fla-keys.com