Their bodies were sleek and graceful, the skin soft to the touch, their demeanor welcoming even if a bit skeptical. Still, they were more used to this
than I was. But I spread my arms out as instructed and flapped them in the water. Annie and DeeDee, my dolphin snorkeling companions, then swam under
my outstretched limbs, and as I grasped on to their dorsal fins, they took me on a wild water-park ride the likes of which I’ll never forget.
Such is one of the many highlights at the Dolphin Academy, one of several up-front-and-personal animal encounters available at the Sea Aquarium on the
Caribbean island of Curacao.
Now I don’t usually like watching animals perform tricks that are alien to their DNA for the amusement of tourists, but at the Dolphin Academy,
the residents are treated with such loving care, I swam alongside them with minimal guilt. According to trainer Yvette, the dolphins are the first
priority. “They are on a very light work schedule and every day, it varies. Like humans, they react better when their life is not all that predictable.
And if for any reason they don’t want to perform -– perhaps they’re preoccupied with a personal family situation (I didn’t pursue that) -– the program
is called off.” And once I found out that both Annie and DeeDee were pregnant, I chose to think of our swim together as a pre-natal exercise program.
Prior to the snorkel, Yvette instructed us on how to proceed: be patient; let them come to you; stroke them along their flanks. She taught us how to
encourage the dolphin to come alongside and then free dive in unison. Annie and I shared a number of shallow dives together and in parting she gave
me a kiss. Okay, so she did it because she got a fish but still I thought she was actually smiling at me at the time –- and I’m pretty sure she winked.
Dafne Greeven, a dive instructor from The Hague, Netherlands, said she had seen dolphin in the ocean, but had never interacted with them. “Most animal
encounter are much more commercial,” she observed. “Snorkeling with them was a very special, personal experience. It was wonderful to see how well
they treat the dolphins here and encourage us to be relaxed so that the dolphins will be.”
The snorkel exercise is one of six interactive programs conducted at the Academy. Other options include standing with, swimming with and diving with –-
plus two multi-day programs where participants actually work alongside the trainers. The Dolphin Academy, like the other animal encounter offerings at
the Sea Aquarium, is one of the very few -– if not the only –- such program in the world.
And it was only the start of my very personal connection with sea life in Curacao. My next encounter took me even further underwater -– my first dive.
I again received basic information on how to use the equipment. There were so many hoses, gadgets and gauges -- and the many things that could go wrong
with any of them -- that the simple act of when and how to breathe took on a life of its own. The equipment was more intimidating than the sharks I was
later to encounter. It reminded me of the fine print that comes with a bottle of aspirin: if you were to actually read it you would never take the pill.
But I now know why divers are as fanatic as they are. When you snorkel, you’re an observer; when you dive, you’re part of the experience. I was surrounded
by dozens of fish of multiple hues, plus sting rays, grouper and tarpon. And I was feeding them all squiggly little sardines while at the same time making
meaningful eye contact. Well, meaningful to me anyway.
Billed as the only place in the world where first-time divers can swim with and feed fish, huge loggerhead turtles and sharks, I wasn’t really surprised
to find those turtles and sharks behind a Plexiglas shield and fed through small holes in the glass. Still. the shark didn’t look any less menacing for
being behind protective covering.
Back on land, my next animal rendezvous was of a more playful nature. I got to meet and greet Corey, the sea lion. Again, there are multiple ways to
interact. There’s a land option where you get to spend some personal time, a snorkel program and an open ocean get-together involving a dive along a
reef with the sea lions in their native habitat. You may notice a pattern here but it is the only dive of its kind in the world.
I learned the difference between sea lions and seals and watched Corey do a seal imitation as he flopped along on his belly. Sea lions are much more
genteel when they move –- they walk on all fours. Using flippers, of course, but still… Corey had a bit to say during our tete-a-tete but his
vocalization unfortunately resembled a very loud, deep belch that tended to continue long after it was socially acceptable to do so. But still
he was very cute -– and, like Annie, very affectionate. Yup, I got another kiss. Between the two, I got more action that weekend than I remember
occurring at the height of my dating career.
There are, of course, other more mundane opportunities to interact with animals on the island, in addition to the excellent diving and snorkeling for
which the island is known. These include a visit to an ostrich farm, horseback riding, a butterfly farm, viewing bats hanging out in caves, lots of bird and lizards, and if so
tempted, a visit to Jaanchie Restaurant. Here an iquana, a relative of whom I had just seen scurrying across my path on a hike, showed up instead in a
stew. According to chef and owner, Jaanchie, it may "taste like chicken but it acts like Viagra." Ha! At least the iguana had more to recommend it than
the ostrich meat.
If You Go
Both getting to and staying in Curacao offers much more value than most Caribbean destinations. The Breezes All-Inclusive Resort, with everything from
lodging, activities galore, all meals, plus alcohol, in a beautiful setting with excellent snorkeling right offshore.
Fyllis Hockman is a Washington, D.C.-based freelance travel writer. She writes regularly for The Washington Times, Creators News Syndicate, and is a
feature columnist for several online travel magazines. Ms. Hockman's travel stories also have appeared in the New York Post, Memphis Commercial Appeal,
Providence Journal, Halifax Herald, Boston Herald, Gazette Newspapers, Asbury Park Press, New Hampshire Sunday News, Buffalo News and many other
publications. She is the author of AAA Guidebook: A Photo Journey to Washington, D.C. and co-author of the Pelican Guide to Maryland. Ms. Hockman is a
member of the Society of American Travel Writers and Travel Journalists Guild.
Photos by Victor Block
© 2009