The Crater of Diamonds: Jewel of the SouthAs the patient few soon discover, Arkansas diamonds can be an explorer's best friend.
For those who can't afford million-dollar diamonds from Cartier's, there's a little-known place in Arkansas, where, for a small fee, poor folks like my husband Dan and me can dig for diamonds to our heart's content. Crater of Diamonds State Park, just south of Hot Springs, is the only productive diamond deposit in the U.S. You wouldn't think it, though, to look at it. From the Visitor's Center, it seems like any other farmer's field, just before the crops have sprouted. Large open fields of dirt, 35 acres plowed into neat little rows - seemingly no place for a sparkling diamond, but that's the reason we'd come.
Though the park's open year-round, it's best to visit in the spring, when the seasonal rains make it easier to locate the biggest diamonds. We wanted to visit in April, but, as is typical to offbeat travelers, we came when we could. So, we bought our five-dollar day passes, gathered our strainers, spades, and rented gear, and headed off to the fields. We were aiming for diamonds, of course, but they're not the only precious stones hidden in the soil. There's well-rounded jasper, multi-colored agate, angular quartz and amethyst, milky white calcite, and shiny flecks of mica, or "fool's gold".
Looking for Gems The easiest way is to observe the surface or turn the topsoil over with gardening tools, looking for crystals that have been exposed by rain or plowing. An old diamond hunter, fond of this method, frequently sits on the edge of the fields in a folding chair, drinking a gin and tonic (Sprite to the park officials), waiting for the sunlight to show him the way. When he spies something glinting in the distance, he walks straight out towards it, often discovering a diamond in the topsoil. The other two ways are slightly more challenging, involving a process known as screening. When the soil's dry, you can shake fistfuls of dirt over a box screen or strainer to find minerals that are too large to fit through the mesh. But, the most effective method is probably the most time-consuming. Using water available in large bins on the mine, you can shake and wash the dirt through two screens - a top one that filters everything but larger rocks and a bottom one, with tinier mesh, that catches smaller gems.
Doing it
You'd be surprised how many rocks and minerals can be found in two handfuls of ordinary-looking dirt. Although diamonds are rare, quartz pieces and colorful rocks are almost always a guarantee. But don't give up on the diamonds - plenty have been found over the years. At the Crater, they're typically well-rounded white, yellow, or brown stones, about the size of a match head, with a metallic shine and an oily, slick surface to which dirt won't stick. Any crystal that doesn't get scratched or crushed under the pressure of a fingernail or pocketknife may, in fact, be a diamond. Just to be sure, the staff will weigh and certify your find free of charge.
It's possible to find one, but it's no easy feat. You could spend the whole day sifting through dirt and even cart home a 5-gallon bucket of washed gravel, only to find a handful of quartz, as we did. But, for five bucks to get in and a little bit more to rent the necessary gear, it's a lot of fun, and, better still, whatever you find, you keep. And there's always the chance you might find a record-breaking jewel, like the 40-carat Uncle Sam excavated at the Crater in 1924, one of the largest diamonds found in America. Can Cartier's guarantee such a find for so low a price tag? We think not, which is why we'll be back there again next spring.
Laura Raitman, an eco-travel columnist, fiction writer, and photographer, contributes various travel articles to numerous national publications. She has been living on the road with her filmmaking husband and adaptable cat for well over a year. Along the way, she's discovered an assortment of hidden American delights, from wacky Texas treasure hunters and massive Kentucky caves to some of the finest truck stops around. Contact Laura at americangypsies@wanderingsoles.com
Photos by Laura Raitman
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