Known variously as the Main Street of America, the Mother Road, and the Will Rogers Highway, Route 66 appeared in Steinbeck's The Grapes of Wrath (the term "Mother Road" comes from here), has been memorialized in song by Bobby Troup, and -- most importantly -- has been driven by millions.

Continuously paved by 1938, over the subsequent decades the road saw the westward migration of thousands of families heading to California, looking to escape the dust and poverty of the Great Depression. It also spawned the development of the motel, the drive-through, and, of course, the assortment of mom-and-pop businesses that sprang up along the way.

While Route 66 was eventually eclipsed by the many-laned sterility of the Interstate Highway and officially decommissioned in 1985, the road is experiencing a revival in the form of thousands of modern-day migrants who seek to re-create the classic journey of generations past. Purists fear the influx of tourists may result in higher prices and loss of character route-wide, but the roadtripper needn't worry -- whether you're searching for yourself or just a good burger and a cheap motel room, Route 66, in all its neon-lit glory, delivers.

The Route of 66

From Chicago, which offers world-class skyscrapers (not to mention deep-dish pizza), our route follows the original as closely as possible, through the rolling countryside of Illinois and Missouri, home to Henry's Rte. 66 Emporium and Rabbit Ranch, and one hell of a milkshake at Ted Drewes Frozen Custard in St. Louis. From here, the next stop is Meramec Caverns -- if the caverns' reputation as Missouri's biggest tourist attraction doesn't reach you, the sheer number of signs surely will. After passing the oddly Gothic Jasper County Courthouse, it's on to the lonely, dusty plains of Oklahoma, where traffic is sparse, cows are many, and almost every town has a street (or at least a park) named for Will Rogers. Route 66 passes through El Reno, OK, where Johnnie's Grill proudly cooks up the world's largest hamburger each May, before traversing Texas and entering New Mexico, where you, too, can stay in "Tucumcari tonight" at the Blue Swallow Motel.

Route 66 then cuts a magnificent swath across New Mexico and Arizona, through miles and miles of scrubby desert, where skies are blue and sweeping, and colorful little trading posts line the road, peddling Navajo crafts, road snacks, and, of course, Route 66 souvenirs. The road passes through Santa Fe, where Spanish colonial architecture, Native American influence, and green chiles come together in one spicy, delicious mix, and continues on through charming Albuquerque, the stunning and scenic pueblo country of Arizona, and the one and only Petrified Forest National Park. Take it easy in Winslow, AZ before reaching Flagstaff, where you can consider taking a brief jaunt off 66 to visit the Grand Canyon. Continue across the punishing Mojave Desert toward Los Angeles, the sprawling city of the stars. Finally, the near-perfect roadtrip reaches its near-perfect end at Santa Monica; after a day at the on the roller coasters, dip your toes in the ocean, kick back on the pier, and watch the sun set over the Pacific.

Visiting Chicago

From its start on Adams St. to where Joliet Rd. escapes the city, Chicago's portion of Rte. 66 takes drivers through the city's latest and greatest, as well as its tried and true. From the renowned museums and shopping along the lakefront to the varied and vibrant music and comedy scenes, Chicago's charms please almost any visitor.

Retaining some of the flavor of its industrial legacy, Chicago today is both a contemporary city and a place acutely aware of its historical roots. A symbol of industrialized city life in middle America since the late 1800s, Chicago continues to wear the mantle admirably -- travelers can expect to find a city of many voices, diverse neighborhoods, and spectacular food and entertainment options.

Getting Around
Chicago has overtaken the entire northeastern corner of Illinois, running north-south along 29 mi. of the southwest Lake Michigan shorefront. The city sits at the center of a web of interstates, rail lines, and airplane routes. And of course, depending on how you look at it, Chicago is the origin or terminus of Old Rte. 66.

The flat, sprawling city's grids usually make sense to drivers. At the city's center is the Loop, Chicago's downtown business district and the public transportation hub. The block numbering system starts from the intersection of State and Madison St., increasing by about 800 per mile. The Loop is bounded loosely by the Chicago River to the north and west, Wabash Ave. to the east, and Congress Pkwy. to the south. South of the Loop, east-west street numbers increase toward the south.

A good map is essential for navigating; pick one up free at the tourist office or any Chicago Transit Authority (CTA) station -- see below. It is a good idea to stay within the boundaries made apparent by tourist maps, as many Chicago neighborhoods are unsafe at night; especially avoid the South Side neighborhood.

Competition for parking in downtown Chicago is ferocious, and parking lot prices are extreme. To avoid driving and parking in the city, daytrippers can leave their cars in one of the suburban park-and-ride lots (24hr. $1.75- 10.75, depending on station). In the city, the Chicago Transit Authority (350 N. Wells, 7th fl. 312-836-7000 or 888-968-7282) runs efficient trains, subways, and buses. The elevated rapid transit train system, called the El, encircles the Loop. The El operates 24hr. Late-night service is infrequent and unsafe in many areas. Helpful CTA maps are available at many stations and at the Chicago Visitor Information Center.

Parking lots west of the South Loop and across the canal from the Sears Tower generally have the best rates, but avoid parking in the Loop if possible. Also, beware the 45 mph speed limit on Lake Shore Drive, a scenic freeway hugging Lake Michigan that offers express north-south connections.

Sights, Museums, and More

Only a fraction of Chicago's eclectic attractions are revealed by tourist brochures, bus tours, and strolls through the downtown area. Chicago's sights range from well-publicized museums to undiscovered back streets, from beaches and parks to towering skyscrapers, and to see it all requires some off-the-beaten path exploration. Fortunately, Chicago is one of a growing number of cities worldwide to have a Greeter program (312-744-8000), where a volunteer staff of knowledgeable Chicagoans will show you around.

The Loop Tours
Nearly leveled in the Great Fire of 1871, Chicago embraced the skyscraper as it rebuilt. Visitors can view the architecture via walking tours organized by the Chicago Architecture Foundation. Highlights of the 2hr. tours include Louis Sullivan's arch, classic windows, and Mies van der Rohe' s revolutionary skyscrapers. (224 S. Michigan Ave. 312-922-8687)

Sears Tower
A few blocks west on Jackson, the Sears Tower is undoubtedly Chicago's most immediately recognizable landmark. The tower is the second-tallest building in the world (first, in the minds of Chicagoans), standing 1454 ft. tall. On a clear day, visitors to the 103rd floor Skydeck can see three states. (233 S. Wacker Dr.; enter on Jackson. 312-875-9696.

The Plaza
The Bank One Building and Plaza is one of the world's largest bank buildings, luring gazes skyward with its diamond-shaped, diagonal slope. Back on the ground, Marc Chagall's vivid mural The Four Seasons lines the block and defines a public space used for concerts and lunchtime entertainment. The mosaic is a fabulous sight at night, when it is lit by various colored bulbs. Two blocks north, the Methodist Chicago Temple, the world's tallest church, sends its Babelesque steeples heavenward. Tours are available. (77 W. Washington St., at the corner of Clark and Washington St. 312-236-4548.)

State Street
State and Madison St., the most famous intersection of "State Street, that great street," forms the focal point of the Chicago street grid as well as another architectural haven. Louis Sullivan's beloved Carson Pirie Scott store is adorned with ironwork and an extra-large Chicago window. Sullivan's other masterpiece, the Auditorium Building, sits several blocks south at the corner of Congress St. and Michigan Ave. Once Chicago's tallest building, it typifies Sullivan's obsession with form and function, housing a hotel and an opera house with some of the world's finest acoustics.

For a museum blitz with easy parking, visit the Field Museum, the Shedd Aquarium, and the Adler Planetarium, which all share onstreet metered parking and a designated parking lot near downtown.

Art Institute of Chicago
It's easy to feel overwhelmed in this expansive museum, whose collections span four millennia of art from Asia, Africa, Europe, and beyond. Make sure to see Chagall's stunning America Windows -- the artist's stained glass tribute to the country's bicentennial -- as well as Wood's American Gothic, Hopper's Nighthawks, and Monet's Haystacks. (111 S. Michigan Ave., at Adams St. in Grant Park. 312-443-3600.)

Field Museum of Natural History
Sue, the largest T. Rex skeleton ever unearthed, towers over excellent geology, anthropology, botany, and zoology exhibits. Other highlights include Egyptian mummies, Native American halls, and a dirt exhibit. (1400 S. Lake Shore Dr., at Roosevelt Rd. in Grant Park. 312-922-9410.)

Museum of Science and Industry
This museum features the Apollo 8 command module, a full-sized replica of a coal mine, and a host of interactive exhibits on topics from DNA to the Internet. Stop by the Yesterday's Main Street exhibit for a scoop at the 1920s-style ice-cream parlor. (5700 S. Lake Shore Dr., at 57th St. in Hyde Park. Direct access to indoor parking garage on Cornell Dr., just before 57th street. 773-684-1414.)

Museum of Contemporary Art (MCA)
The beautiful view of Lake Michigan is the only unchanging feature in the MCA's ultramodern exhibition space. Pieces from the outstanding permanent collection rotate periodically. Call to see what is on display-their collection includes works by Calder, Warhol, Javer, and Nauman. (220 E. Chicago Ave., 1 block east of Michigan Ave. 312-280-2660).

Terra Museum of American Art
Wedged between the posh shops on N. Michigan Ave., this is one of few galleries to showcase exclusively American art from colonial times to the present. Exhibits include works from Hopper, Inness, and the celebrated Hudson River School. (664 N. Michigan Ave. Between Huron and Erie St. 312-664-3939)

Museum of Holography
This unconventional museum explores the wild world of holograms, including fantastic hologram pictures of famous people. (1134 W. Washington Blvd., just west of the Loop. 312-226-1007)

International Museum of Surgical Science
A sculpture of a surgeon holding his wounded patient marks the entrance to this unique museum, a harrowing journey through the history of surgery. Highlights, if they can be so called, include a fascinating collection of gallstones and bladderstones. (1524 N. Lake Shore Dr., at North Ave. 312-642-6502)

Oak Park

Gunning for the title of the most fantastic suburb in the US, Oak Park is the Chicago sight for any architecture aficionado or Wright buff, or just anyone looking for a quiet detour among some of America's most drool-worthy homes. Easily accessible from Rte. 66, Oak Park offers a leisurely walking or driving excursion at the Oak Park Visitors Center, 158 N. Forest Ave. Take I- 290 West to Harlem St. 708-848-1500 or 888-625- 7275.) Unity Temple
When Frank Lloyd Wright designed this cubical church, he declared it the beginning of modern architecture. Striking in both its aesthetic and its utility, the Unity Temple features an interior that employs receding planes and builds in wood trim to guide the eye. (875 Lake St., 1 mi. north on Harlem Ave. From I-290, turn east on Lake for ˝ mi. to Kenilworth Ave. 708-383-8873, tours available.)

More Facts and Sights

A Sticky Situation
With the laying of Rte. 66 and the increase in traffic, the land south of St. Louis became prime real estate. On the eve of Rte. 66, the St. Louis Times bought up a parcel of land along the Meramac River, and sold off chunks as the new Times Beach community. Rte. 66 was the sole access road to the community, as well as the only paved road around. To combat the summer dust raised, the town's board contracted Russell Bliss, a waste oil hauler who offered to spray their streets with the oil he was transporting. The oil kept the dust down, Bliss kept down transport costs, and kids loved to play in the stuff. Not until 1982 did the EPA reveal -- and residents learn -- that Bliss's oil in fact came from a chemical company unbeknownst to Bliss and contained Dioxin, a leading ingredient in Agent Orange. Although the federal government ultimately offered to buy out the Times Beach community to dissuade residents from staying, the controversy divided and ultimately destroyed the town.

Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio
Frank Lloyd Wright's house showcases the evolution of his creative ideas, from conception to reality. Visitors can see not only the studio where he planned his work, but also his house, which was the constantly evolving subject of his architectural experimentation. (951 Chicago Ave. From Rte. 66, go north to Chicago Ave., and head east for 3 blocks. 708-848-1606).

Ernest Hemingway Birthplace and Museum
Throughout the year, fans flock to the Ernest Hemingway Birthplace and Museum to take part in the many events honoring the novelist (including a birthday lecture and champagne/cake reception every July 21st). The museum features photos of Hemingway, his childhood diaries, and other memorabilia. (339 N. Oak Ave. 708-848- 2222. On-street parking.)

Magnificent Mile
Chicago's glitzy shops along N. Michigan Ave. between the Chicago River and Oak St. magnificently drain the wallet. Several of these retail stores were designed by the country's foremost architects and merit a look. The plain Chicago Water Tower and Pumping Station stick out at the corner of Michigan and Pearson Ave. Built in 1867, these were the sole structures in the area to survive the Great Chicago Fire. Across Pearson St., expensive, trendy stores pack Water Tower Place, the first urban shopping mall in the US. One block north, the John Hancock Building rockets toward the sky in black steel and glass.

Navy Pier
Big, bright, and always festive, Navy Pier captures the carnival spirit 365 days a year. No small jetty, the 1 mi. long pier has it all: a concert pavilion, dining options, nightspots, sightseeing boats, a spectacular ferris wheel, a crystal garden with palm trees, an Omnimax theater, and a Shakespeare theater. From here, explorers can rent bicycles to navigate the Windy City's streets. Free trolleys run from here to State St.; consider taking advantage of reasonable parking rates here, and ride to get a close-up of downtown. (600 E. Grand Ave. 312-595-7437 or 800-595-7437)

Adler Planetarium
Aspiring astronauts can discover their weight on Mars, read the news from space, and explore a medieval observatory. (1300 S. Lake Shore Dr., on Museum Campus in Grant Park. 312-922-7827)

Shedd Aquarium
The world's largest indoor aquarium has over 6600 species of fish in 206 tanks. The Oceanarium features beluga whales, dolphins, seals, and other marine mammals in a giant pool that appears to flow into Lake Michigan. See piranhas and tropical fish of the rainforest in the "Amazon Rising" exhibit or get a rare glimpse of seahorses in the oceanarium exhibit "Seahorse Symphony." Also, check out the sharks at the new "Wild Reef" exhibit. (1200 S. Lake Shore Dr., in Grant Park. 312-939-2438.)

The Lake
Lincoln Park extends across 5 mi. of lakefront on the north side with winding paths, natural groves of trees, and asymmetrical open spaces. The Lincoln Park Zoo is usually filled with children fascinated by the zoo's caged gorillas and lions. (312-742-2000) Next door, the Lincoln Park Conservatory is a veritable glass palace of plants from varied ecosystems. (312-742-7736.) Grant Park, covering 14 lakefront blocks east of Michigan Ave., follows the 19th-century French park style: symmetrical and ordered with corners, a fountain, and wide promenades. The Grant Park Concert Society hosts free summer concerts in the Petrillo Music Shell. (520 S. Michigan Ave. 312-742-4763.) Colored lights illuminate Buckingham Fountain from 9 to 11pm. On the north side, Lake Michigan lures swimmers and sun-bathers to Lincoln Park Beach and Oak St. Beach. Beware, though: the rock ledges are restricted areas, and swimming from them is illegal. Although the beaches are patrolled 9am-9:30pm, they can be unsafe after dark. The Chicago Parks District has further info. (312-742-7529.)

Entertainment
The free weeklies Chicago Reader and New City, available in many bars, record stores, and restaurants, list the latest events. The Reader reviews all major shows with times and ticket prices. Chicago magazine includes theater reviews alongside exhaustive club, music, dance, and opera listings. The Chicago Tribune includes an entertainment section every Friday. Gay Chicago provides info on social activities as well as other news for the area's gay community.

Festivals
The city celebrates summer on a grand scale. The first week in June, the Blues Festival celebrates the city's soulful music. The Chicago Gospel Festival hums and hollers in mid-June, and Nashville moves north for the Country Music Festival at the end of June. In early July, the Taste of Chicago festival cooks for eight days. Seventy restaurants set up booths with endless samples in Grant Park, while crowds chomp to the blast of big-name bands. The Taste's fireworks are the city's biggest. (Food tickets $0.50 each.) The ˇViva Chicago! Latin music festival steams up in late August, while the Chicago Jazz Festival scats over Labor Day weekend. All festivals center on the Grant Park Petrillo Music Shell. The Mayor's Office' s Special Events Hotline (312-744-3370; and Chicago, Illinois has more info.

The regionally famous Ravinia Festival (312- 847-266-5100), in the northern suburb of Highland Park, runs from late June to early September. During the festival's 14-week season, the Chicago Symphony Orchestra, ballet troupes, folk and jazz musicians, and comedians perform. On certain nights, the Orchestra allows free lawn admission with student ID.

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