The five islands that make up Channel Islands National Park (San Miguel, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz, Santa Barbara and Anacapa) stretch between Ventura and Santa Barbara some 20 miles off the California coast. Unlike Catalina, their famous sibling to the south, these islands haven't been developed into a tourist destination.

Programs and guided tours are offered to teach guests about the geology, history, plants and wildlife of this unique island chain. Over 2,000 plant and animal species make these islands their home, many of which can't be found anywhere else on earth.

Santa Cruz
Boarding a boat in Ventura, we started our two-hour journey to Scorpion Bay on the eastern end of Santa Cruz, the largest and perhaps most magnificent of all the Channel Islands. Sea life is abundant along this route. We spotted a pod of whales; gray humps barely visible in the murky ocean, yet unmistakable because of the misty blasts from their blowholes. Several dolphins darted by, then danced on the curling "V" of the wake; while seals poked their heads from the water as if to say 'hello.'

After a fairly smooth crossing, we disembarked and headed to one of the well-worn trails. The diverse terrain has something for everyone: from beaches and high ocean bluffs, to mountain ranges and pastoral valleys. At an elevation of over 2,400 feet, the highest peak, Mt. Diablo, occasionally receives a dusting of snow. Santa Cruz is blessed with natural springs. With an annual rainfall of 20 inches, in the wet months, rivers cascade over canyon walls in ribbon-like waterfalls.

In the spring, wildflowers spread splashes of color across the landscape. Ferns grow in shady places, and wild blackberries, snap dragons, and red Spanish dagger are scattered all over the island. The canyons are dense with willow and oak trees, and stands of Monterey pines pepper the shoreline.

The animal population is also fascinating. Bird watchers can find over 140 species residing on Santa Cruz Island, including the Island Scrub Jay, which is larger and bluer than mainland jays. Other animals found only on Santa Cruz include the tiny island fox and spotted skunk.

Perhaps the island's most unusual feature is the Painted Cave, the largest and one of the most beautiful sea caves in the world. Named for its vividly colored rocks, the cavern's huge mouth yawns open to a height of 160 feet at its entrance, and is a quarter-mile long and 100 feet wide. Each spring, an imposing waterfall covers the cave's entrance, making it inaccessible for exploration, but providing a spectacular scene for photographers.

Actually, there are many picturesque sea caves along the rocky coastline. Be cautious, as the strong current makes some of them too dangerous to approach. Water spouts shoot into the air through eroded fissures in the rock, reminiscent of the lava crevices along the coast of Hawaii. Smaller caverns hiss as the ocean rushes in, while the underground grottos groan and shake under the rush of the heavy seas. Kayaks are available for rent at the boat landing. Because conditions can be dangerous at times, the Channel Islands Kayak Center offers guided tours, a safer bet for those of us who aren't confident about tackling the ocean currents unescorted.

After spending a day reveling in the island's natural beauty, it was easy to see why Santa Cruz has attracted generations of artists, photographers, and nature lovers to its shores.

Ready for a swim, we returned to Scorpion Bay. Dangling a toe in the translucent aqua blue sea, I quickly changed my mind. Although the water looks like the Caribbean, it's ice cold. For the faint of heart, er, like me, I recommend bringing a wetsuit…even in the summer. These islands are renowned for their beautiful marine environment, huge kelp forests and orange garibaldi fish. For snorkelers and SCUBA divers, the underwater gardens are a must-see.

Santa Cruz History
An estimated 2,000 Chumash Indians once called the island their home. The natives of Santa Cruz (or "Lumi" in the Chumash language) were skilled fisherman who braved the choppy channel waters to trade with tribes on the mainland. By the time the Spanish removed the Lumis from Santa Cruz in 1814, a measles epidemic had decimated most of the tribe. Those who survived were removed to Santa Barbara.

As the decades passed, Santa Cruz was sold and resold to individuals who used the island for sheep ranching. Eventually, Justinian Caire, a wealthy businessman from San Francisco, took over the operation. He and his family moved to Santa Cruz Island, expanded the sheep ranching enterprise, and constructed additional buildings, including ranch and bunk houses, barns, wineries, a blacksmith shop, and a chapel. Many of these buildings are still standing.

While Caire was creating his ranching empire, the beautiful bays and coves drew campers, fishermen, and seal hunters. One of these fishermen was Ira Eaton, a young man with a small fishing boat and a big dream. Ira saw the potential for tourism on Santa Cruz and hoped he would find a way to set up a permanent camp, a place he could bring tourists from the mainland to hunt, fish, and enjoy ocean activities, just like Catalina's popular Avalon Bay.

In the late 1890s, Ira moved his wife and daughter from the mainland to desolate Santa Cruz Island. After a few years of camping in various locations, the Eatons received permission to build a tourist camp at Pelican Bay. Their efforts paid off. The little resort became so popular that guests booked a year in advance.

During the 1920s and 30s, the rich and famous often sailed their private yachts to the Eaton's camp. Anchored in the bay, they came ashore to enjoy "Mother" Eaton's wonderful cooking. Other tourists stayed in the little cabins Ira had constructed. There was no electricity, no running water, and no indoor toilets. And yet, they didn't seem to mind.

Perhaps their most famous visitor was actor John Barrymore, who frequently returned to what he said was one of his favorite places on earth. Gloria Swanson, Jesse Lasky, Cecil B. DeMille and many other stars stayed at the Eaton's camp while filming movies. Santa Cruz frequently doubled for a South Seas island, though barges of palm and coconut trees had to be hauled in to lend an air of authenticity.

In 1937 the Eaton's received word that they had to immediately vacate the island. In her book, The Sea Captain's Wife, Margaret Eaton wrote that the news came as a shock. Apparently, the island had been sold to a new owner who wouldn't allow them to continue operating their camp at Pelican Bay.

Today, The Nature Conservancy owns and manages the western 76% of the island, while the eastern 24% is operated by the National Park Service.