At the entrance I am greeted by a flock of pink and salmon colored flamingoes posing on long, thin delicate legs, like ballerinas waiting for their que. Nearby, disturbing the peace, were six stunningly beautiful macaws flaunting their jeweled colors of ruby, emerald, citron and aquamarine, all squawking up a storm like the gangs of New York. Since both animals are on the extinction list, Xcaret aims to protect them and other species.

It is a scalding hot day as I head for the ladies locker room, located ideally at the entrance to the park, to change into my suit. A cool shower from multiple fountains sprang from the sidewalk and I joined the screaming kids running through them emitting sizzling steam from our bodies.

Underground River
The most exciting attraction is the Underground River, possibly the only natural underground river on the planet (with the next closest ones possibly on Mars). Steps are carved out for entrance to the river. The water is as clear as glass and as cold as Maine mountain water, but on this sweltering day, it is a refreshing relief.

Wearing a hot pink lifejacket, and snorkel gear, it is an easy glide floating through the caverns illuminated by natural skylights. It is quiet as a monastery as I float past fossilized coral formations and waterfalls spilling over ancient limestone walls, unaware that I am 20 feet underground.

Along the 1,980 feet of waterway, I passed a bamboo forest and surface deep inside a dense jungle on the Mayan River where it meets with the sea. The salt water floats over the clear river water and I float over both, blissfully watching the sights: a girl trying her best to walk a tightrope over the lagoon as her boyfriend twangs the rope, causing her to flip off, laughing and shrieking; people jumping off high cliffs and plunging into the depths of the river; others just lolling about adrift in their tubes, dozing like contented cats.

Sea Trek
With twenty-five activities in the park, I needed to make some choices. I opted for the Sea Trek tour and walked on the bottom of the sea wearing a giant bell helmet over my head. It looked like something out of "Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea." This weighty head encasement had me walking/bouncing around the ocean floor like a drunken sailor trying not to bump into sea stuff like chartreuse sea fans and fluorescent fish. Had it not been for the guide rope, I might have just bounced off into oblivion.

Snuba
Since swimming with the dolphins was on my agenda, but the classes were full, I tried a Snuba Tour, a combo of scuba and snorkel. Six of us were attached to separate air hoses which connected to an air-tank floating on the surface. We each had the autonomy to descend 15 feet and travel twenty feet in any direction. This technique is far less cumbersome than scuba gear, however weight belts are still required. There is a plethora of marine life everywhere especially when the guide drops fish food and the yellow-striped angel-fish engulf the human Snubers.

Spectacular Night Show
The finale of this marvelous day is the Xcaret Spectacular Night Show (with or without dinner). The show is a mystical voyage through time beginning with pre- Hispanic Mexico showcasing music, dance and costumes. An ancient ball game called Pok ta Pok is played involving hip movements to maneuver the ten pound ball across the court and through the hoop. It is a high-speed, dangerous game played a second time using a fire ball.

What Else?
With all the park has to offer, you'll need a minimum of two days to visit everything:

• Wild bird aviary with 37 bird species
• Sea turtle conservation program-assisting 220,000 turtles
• Butterfly Pavilion among largest in the world
• Botanical garden-118,000 plants.
• Orchid conservatory with 114 species
• Archaeological ruins
• Jaguars
• Environmental Education Program
• Coral Reef Aquarium
• Mayan Village
• Horseback riding
• Cultural Museum
• Mushroom Farm
• 19 Mayan model cities

Xel-Ha State Park
A little further south of Xcaret, is Xel-Ha, a state park that offers similar attractions of Xcaret plus a few more. A natural paradise, Xel-Ha is entwined with jungle paths, caves, tropical outcroppings and sinkholes. The most stunning area is the path around the park that leads to the rocky, ragged coastline at sea level. Waves crash with thunderous roars, sending an explosion of salty water in my face as I walk along the edge. Small, shallow caves fitted with two chairs dot the path providing a space of solitude and meditation.

I sit there mesmerized by the spirit of the sea. After a long while, I move on to the Xel-Ha River Float: an adventure that you don't want to miss.

I plunk into a tube in the cool river fed by multiple tiny, underground fresh- water springs. Floating on a gentle journey to the sea, I study the myriads of colorful fish and fossilized coral like an underwater movie. At the end of this delightful, lazy cruise, I rent a bike and try a little exercise to make me feel worthy of all this relaxation. The 80-meter floating bridge proffers a sweeping view of the Cove and the clear aqua Caribbean. Huge fish pop through the water's surface near the bridge hoping for a benevolent hand-out. The sun is near the end of its day, so I head for Hammock Island.

Staking out one of thirty or so hammocks on the soft sand beach, I ditch my bike and settle in for a nice long nap while the sun sets. Can it get any better than this?