I'm sure some think of Italy because of the Italian heritage which is so strong here. Often when I overhear a conversation it even sounds Italian. And, combine that with the hand gestures and body language. But BsAs, as it is often abbreviated, has a special feeling and character all its own. You have to visit, walk the streets, meet the people and spend enough time here to understand this wonderful character.

I have friends that spent three months here to study the language and improve their tango skills. And, I met a retired dentist from California who has become a special friend and is now living in BA half of the year and may even be considering extending that percentage. Add to that the local citizens I have met, including my fine young dentist friends, Matias and Carlos and others, and, once you make your own special friends, you, too, will understand the passion many have for this wonderful city.

Now back to our current visit and more to see and do in Buenos Aires.

Attractions to Visit -- And Shopping To Do

Begin another day by visiting the Recoleta area and the Recoleta Cemetery where you will undoubtedly find the mausoleum of Eva Peron. The cemetery is an amazing place with small streets crisscrossing and hundreds of tombs of many of Argentina's most famous and notorious citizens. They are, for the most part, very ornate and elaborate . . . and, obviously expensive. Don't forget your camera. I would recommend a couple of hours for the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes with its excellent art collection just across the plaza. And, if it's a weekend, the plaza itself will be filled with yet another market - this one filled mostly with contemporary artists and craftspeople. A good place to look for some fine leatherwork.

There is even more good news for shoppers. In addition to all the wonderful street markets I found a couple of great shopping centers. The first one is directly across the street from the Esquina Carlos Gardel, so you can shop before the tango show at the Mercado de Abasto with over 200 shops and, hard to believe but... I mention it, even a kosher McDonald's.

Much easier to find is the Galleria Pacifico on Florida Avenue. You will be amazed at the ceiling paintings over the central stairway and entrance to the food court. And this is no ordinary food court - see for yourself.

Good Eating

Speaking of food, I hope you're ready for some simply delicious, grass fed beef. No feed lot, hormone stuffed cattle here. You can have the best and largest steak you can imagine for ten bucks - or, very likely, less. And I'm talking about a fine restaurant with table cloths, good china and excellent service. A really nice, somewhat touristy (yes, they even have a tango show at times) parilla with the beef cooking in the front windows by the entrance. The waiter will bring you a tray of uncooked beef and you can pick whatever you wish. It may he hard to believe the prices, but that giant steak he's showing you will probably be way less than $10. An added attraction - no surly waiters here, either. Your waiter will probably be an older gentleman trained in the art of good service and he will be friendly and eager to assist you in making the correct decisions.

My recommendation for your first BA dining experience is La Estancia, on LaValle between Florida and 9 de Julio. The Tortoni Café is a few blocks away on Avenida de Mayo. This place looks expensive, but, like most of BsAs it is very reasonable. (I get tired of using the word cheap.) It is a classic café founded in 1858 with a tango museum upstairs - go for lunch or a late afternoon snack. Or just coffee. The rest of the decisions are up to you. There are plenty of all you can eat places (tenedor libre) but I don't think you need to worry about keeping filled. Especially if you follow up the meal during your late evening stroll at an ice cream parlor. If you don't try the Dulce de Leche ice cream you will have missed out on a truly delightful experience.

Lodging and Hotels

If you need a place to sleep the InterContinental is well situated, has a great breakfast buffet, a very nice exercise room and even a swimming pool. If you do enough walking you may not need the gym, but the pool will be relaxing.

For a different, and more moderately priced stay, you might want to try a "tango hotel" like the Caseron Porteno. It is not nearly as conveniently located for city center activities, but if you're visiting for the tango it is a very nice little boutique hotel that includes free tango lessons almost every evening. They'll help you book tango shows and tell you how to use local transportation. Remember, public transportation is well organized and very, very inexpensive.

If you're a student or on a tight budget there are number of hostels in BA. Also, I can recommend the Hotel Alcazar on Avenida de Mayo in the city center at a very reasonable cost. An old colonial style building with high ceilings and lots of character. And spotlessly clean. No A/C but ceiling fans keep the rooms comfortable even on hot days. Plus, you'll have fun riding the ancient elevator. Open the door, slide back the gate and climb aboard. Just be sure to close the door securely when you get off so the next person can call it to his floor. Should you need the exercise; the broad, sweeping marble staircase will suit you just fine.

Outside the City

If you can, plan to stay a couple of extra days and journey up to Iguazu Falls. My friends have been and I'm going to visit the falls in December. I'm told they dwarf Niagara. But, go see for yourself. They're on the border of Argentina and Brazil. You don't have to go into Brazil to see the falls, but if you do, remember to take your passport and a Brazilian visa. Just your passport works for Argentina.