Tango Hotels: Buenos Aires Treasures

It's everywhere you go. You can hear it on the streets and in the sidewalk cafes. You can watch Tango dancers performing every day and every evening on Florida Avenue, in La Boca district, at Dorrego Plaza in San Telmo and more places than one might imagine. I can't even guess how many Tango shows there are in cafes and restaurants of all sizes. Some are upstairs, some are in basements, some are on the main dining room floor, while some are in special showrooms that at first glance would make you think you're in Las Vegas -- Esquina Carlos Gardel, Madero Tango, others.

But the portenos -- the people of Argentina -- who are real tango aficionados don't spend much of their time at the shows - unless, of course, they are part of the show. The real, everyday Tanguero, who is deeply and passionate about the tango, will be found at his or her favorite milonga. And that might be a different one on different nights of the week.

As you might suspect, Buenos Aires, Argentina, which appears to have a valid claim to being the birthplace and home of Tango, has a number of hotels that have devoted themselves almost exclusively to the Tango.

I'll begin with my favorite.

Caseron Porteno

There is a delightful and charming Tango guest house by the name of Caseron Porteno located just a couple of blocks off the D Line subway at Ciudad de la Paz 344. While certainly not the largest Tango hotel in B.A. I get the feeling that they are probably one of the hotels most dedicated to the dance. If you visit their website and read the comments from visitors from around the world who have stayed there you might think it is the only Tango hotel, but I will tell you of more later.

Caseron Porteno encircles a lovely, small courtyard that leads to the dance studio at the back of the property. My balcony allowed me to see dance lessons in progress from by room through the glass doors of the studio.

If you're wondering about the rates I can tell you that you might well pay more for a single hour of instruction in the U.S. than you'll pay for the night's stay at Caseron Porteno which includes your breakfast and the usual amenities (like internet access, mineral water) and the less common free use of the kitchen.

It also features:

Free tango group lessons every day
Free use of the tango dance floor
Advice and reservations for different tango places

You should also know that they publish what I consider to be one of the best maps of the city available along with their very handy and free guide. If you're there for Tango, the guide includes a very comprehensive list, by day, of the various milongas, including location, time of day, phone number, organization putting it on as well as a key to find it easily on the included map. Could you want more? O.K., then, there are also some shopping ads for the latest in the finest Tango shoes, apparel, shows, and events.

Conventillo de Lujo

Another B & B Tango hotel a couple of blocks away is the Conventillo de Lujo. I was only there for one evening but found it to be very comfortable. Don't be confused by the name - it is NOT a convent. What you will find here is a very contemporary styled lodging, but warm and friendly like most of Buenos Aires. The rates are very reasonable and many amenities are included. You will receive one complimentary Tango lesson and frequent evening group lessons are available at a nominal charge.

I should mention that both of these establishments found in the Belgrano district will assist you with making travel arrangements, finding shows, etc. They are very helpful.

Mansion Dandi Royal

If you're inclined to go a little more upscale you may want to check out the Mansion Dandi Royal in the San Telmo District. It's just a short walk from the Plaza Dorrego with it's fabulous Sunday market where you will always see Tango dancers on the northeast corner. If you smile and ask politely, they'll gladly dance with you. The Mansion Dandi Royal has a number of special packages listed on their website and all include a complimentary Tango lesson. They have a dance academy adjoining the hotel and offer private and group lessons as well as their own milongas and practices. The hotel itself is an early 1900's family mansion with beautiful rooms, antique furniture, king-sized beds and even a small laptop swimming pool and a small gym. But, skip the gym and take Tango lessons instead - that's why you're here, right? There are other Tango hotels in Buenos Aires, but I think I should mention the Argentina Tango Hotel. I don't think this is a Tango hotel. Some of the reviews I've seen are not so good and I see no reference to Tango other than in the name.

Tango Shows

If you're visiting Argentina for the Tango you'll probably want to see at least one of the really high-end Tango shows. I've seen two of them and can recommend either one. My favorite was the show at Esquina Carlos Gardel. The dinner was excellent and I really enjoyed the show. The music was terrific and you can pick up a CD after the show. It was well worth the price. Visit their website at esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar and listen to the music.

The other is Madero Tango at the ritzy Puerto Madero. A dinner show also, it is a bit more contemporary and an excellent meal and show as well.

For that matter, there are tango shows all over town, some free, some for a fee. Street performers will pass the hat, some restaurants in LaBoca will ask you to buy something to drink or eat, but the fact is that none of them will bust your budget.

Reasonable Eating Options

And, since you also have to eat when not at the shows I can recommend La Estancia, an inexpensive, but quite nice somewhat touristy restaurant on LaValle just a few blocks off Florida where you'll want to walk in the evenings to watch the buskers. There will be Tango dancers there every night.

The joys of eating out in Buenos Aires are many - professional waiters who know how to serve, great steaks at prices one third of the U.S., real tablecloths and napkins on the table and no one rushing you out to "turn over the table." And, if you don't want real food there are plenty of very cheap hot dogs (panchos), pizza and ice cream stores everywhere. There is one restaurant that you simply cannot miss. You have to visit the Café Tortoni, founded in 1858. The oldest coffee shop in Argentina it is a beautiful building and you may find yourself standing in line to get in, depending on the time of day. If there is a busload of tourists walk away and come back later.

You can go next door and visit their Tango Museum. Also, remember to ask about their Tango shows. They won't be as expensive as the big shows, but they're very entertaining.

In August, the Tango Festival