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Bucharest, Romania: City of Culture and Architecture
Legend has it that the capital city of Romania, Bucharest, was named after a shepherd, Bucur, who was tending his sheep by the side of the river.
Charming, but a bit fanciful. Others suggest Bucur might have been a warrior or freedom fighter. What is known is that the city likely dates back
to the 15th century when it was mentioned in official records. But it only became the capital of Romania in the 19th century.
During the period between World Wars, the city thrived, earning the nickname Little Paris. But under communist rule for several decades, it
suffered the devastation of neighborhoods and then the chaos after the end of Nicolae Ceausescu's rule in 1989.
Today the city is a mix. Peeling paint and pieces of facade decorated with graffiti tags coexist with areas of cafes and patisseries, and the funky
charming historic heart of Lipscani.
Bucharest still has its eclectic architecture mixing French neo-classical, with Bauhaus and Art Deco and an enviable roster of museums as well as the
city's beloved green spaces. But Nicolae Ceausescu was far more interested in building monuments to his reign, and destroyed much of the historical
part of the city as well as building the peculiar form of block architecture that was prevalent during the Communist era.
There are many ways to see a city. In Bucharest, the hop-on-hop-off buses loop around the most interesting sites offering easy access to popular
attractions.
However, for Bucharest, I chose to engage the services of Adrian Rusu who I found through
Local Guiding . He is extraordinarily knowledgeable and amiable, readily tailoring an itinerary
to match my interests, as well as eager to showcase the best of the city. A guide is especially helpful if time is a factor. As Adrian drove throughout
the city, magically finding parking spaces
where few appeared to exist, I saw more, and with excellent explanations and information than I would have seen on my own. Plus, in places where
English wasn’t spoken, he was also my translator.
Exploring BucharestRevolution SquarePost-Ceausescu history starts here where in 1989 Romanians overthrew the government as Ceausescu spoke from the balcony of the former Communist Party Headquarters. Admire the gorgeous French Classical architecture, then gaze on the somber Rebirth Memorial dedicated to those who died when security forces fired on the crowd as they began to protest his reign. Revolution Square (Piata Revolutiei) also encompasses the former Royal Palace (now the National Art Museum), the stunning Romanian Athenaeum (gorgeous concert hall and home of the Romanian George Enescu Philharmonic) and the historic Athenee Palace Hotel. At the south end of the square, you can visit the small, but beautiful, Kretzulescu Church built in 1720, and reconstructed after the earthquake. Calea Victoriei Calea Victoriei, the street that borders the Square is one of the major shopping streets in town. Follow it north to more museums and the Bucharest version of the Arc de Triumph - the Arch of Triumph honors the victory of the Romanian soldiers during the WWI and was inspired by the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. It was initially built of wood but was finished in Deva granite in 1936. Going south along Calea Victoriei after Piata Revolutiei brings you to the beautiful classical building that is the CEC bank. The Old Court Princely Palace If you have a weakness for half ruined historic sites (and I do), you'll love Princely Court (Strada Franceza 25-31). It is considered the oldest feudal monument in Bucharest. It dates back to the middle 1400s constructed as a brick fortress, later enlarged by Vlad Tepes, also known as Vlad the Impaler, and Dracula. Currently undergoing renovation, it is open to the public and there’s an English brochure available for a self-guided tour. Great Synagogue The long formal name is Dr. Moses Rosen Museum of the History of the Jewish Community in Romania (Address: Str. Mamulari 3), but it is housed in the Great Synagogue built in 1850 in the city's historically Jewish neighborhood. It's a beautiful building and worth a visit just to see the architecture and restored interior. Inside are exhibits and information on Romanian Jewish life and history. Although Romania initially sided with Germany, late in the war Romania switched sides, enabling some of the Jews living in the city to survive the war. There is still a Jewish community in Bucharest and you can visit the other historic synagogue which still holds religious services. The Choral Temple (Templul Coral Address: Str. Sfanta Vineri 9) was built in 1857 with offers lovely Moorish touches. Truly Must-See PlacesParliamentary PalaceFor over-the-top extravagance head to the controversial Parliamentary Palace (Calea 13 Septembrie 1, ). Started by Ceausescu as a monument to himself, whole neighborhoods were destroyed to make room for it, and the boulevards he envisioned and the less than stellar architecture of the area's buildings. It is a huge construction that extends almost as far down below ground as it rises above. It is said that part of the reason for the underground floors is that in the event of war it could function as a bomb center. A network of now-closed tunnels is said to run under the city, and even out into the countryside. Today, it houses Romania's Parliament, but its enormous size leaves most of the space unused. It is the second largest administrative building in the world (the Pentagon in Washington DC is the largest) and took 20,000 workers and 700 architects to build. It has 12 stories, 1,100 rooms, a 328-ft-long lobby and four underground levels, including that nuclear bunker. Visitors can take a guided tour through a small section of building. Be prepared to gawk at the crystal chandeliers, mosaics, oak paneling, marble, gold leaf, stained-glass windows and floors covered in rich carpets. Today, much of the space is empty, and the land around it could use a bit of love and attention. But the building itself shines in the sunlight on top of the hill. It may be an expense the city can ill afford, but it is one very impressive building. Another of the architectural gems of the city is the Patriarchy Palace and Metropolitan Church (Aleea Dealul Mitropoliei) . Set atop one of the city's few hills, known as Mitropoliei, the Metropolitan Church has been the centerpiece of the Romanian Orthodox faith since the 17th century. The country is almost completely Romanian Orthodox (87%), and the compound of the Patriarch Palace is the spiritual home. The outstanding bell-tower at the entrance was built in 1698 and restored in 1958. Next to the church, and closed to the public, is the Patriarchal Palace (1708), residence of the supreme leader of the Romanian Orthodox Church. The architecture is truly striking. National Village Museum For a totally different experience, visit the National Village Museum - the Dimitrie Gusti tucked inside the beautiful Parc Herastrau (Sos. Kiseleff 28-30). One of the show pieces of Bucharest, the museum recreates, or has moved, actual houses and housing compounds from around the countryside. It's an architectural and cultural tour of Romania, in one place. And you can enjoy the views of the park and lake as well. Lipscani Bucharest is not really a restaurant city with sidewalk cafes, however, there is one district that must be visited and appreciated. It's the old part of the city called Lipscani. Barely escaping the fate of most of the historic parts of the city under Nicolae Ceausescu's let's-tear-everything-down approach to beautification, it is perhaps the oldest extant part of the city, and a pedestrian zone. Cafes seem to inhabit the ground floor of almost every building. Shops are supplemented by street vendors, and day or night, this is the best place to eat, drink, and people-watch. There's also a theater and several historic churchs that are definitely worth a visit. For evening entertainment, the city offers the Teatre National - with its whimsical sculpture in front - one of the few pieces of public art. The opera house is nearby. Festivals also add to the cultural life of the city. If You Go |
