Which kept our neighbors in the next cabin over very busy –- the fire that is. Every time, Vic and I left to do one of the activities, which was often, we glanced in surprise at the family next door. No matter the time of day or night, there they were, huddled around a roaring blaze in the fire ring built outside each cottage.

It didn’t take long before we realized that our neighbors were looking back at us with equal wonder. They no doubt questioned where, and why, we kept rushing off when we could, like them, just relax, chat and take in the view of Moosehead Lake.

Then it dawned on us. That choice -– to participate in an endless array of activities, take part in just a few or simply veg out by the lake –- is why vacationers have been coming here for decades. But just between you and me, of course, I thought they were nuts!

The place traces its past back to 1930 when the main lodge was built, primarily to attract fishermen and hunters willing to live in very rustic quarters. When their unwilling wives decided to join them, a few simple cabins followed. Which they still are, with a few nods toward modern-day comfort. They have bathrooms now.

As a throwback to those long-ago days, the communal shower house still exists, there are still no locks on the cabin doors and the four lodge rooms still share a bath. But the scope of activities has expanded greatly.

Our visit was unfortunately limited to just two days. Here’s how it came down: Day 1. Hike, Jeep tour, Moose Cruise. Day 2. Hike, Kayak, Canoe. My kind of itinerary!

Okay – the hiking first. More like scrambling. On an old Indian trail. Uphill. The kind of thing that while doing, you ask yourself if you’re crazy and then once done, you’re so glad that you are –- crazy, that is. And suffice it to say that we saw a moose on both the jeep tour, traversing back woods accessible only by four-wheel drive vehicles, and on the moose cruise, which lived up to its name. It doesn’t get any better than that!

Our first sighting was a bull moose standing in shallow water and feeding on tender shoots that grew there. Every passenger moved to the front of the boat, training binoculars, cell phones and cameras on the object of our rapt attention. After a quick and I thought rather casual look in our direction, the animal continued feeding with only an occasional glance to make sure we weren’t venturing closer. The passengers were hoping the same thing.

After a more gentle hike the second morning, we took to the water. Our destination was Baker Brook, about a 30-minute paddle from the resort. The stream leads through remote forest where, with a little luck, it’s possible on occasion to encounter –- you guessed it -- a moose. But we had already seen our quota.

It was the total feeling of really being away from civilization that so appealed to me. We heard rumors that a small town was within several miles but we didn’t have to go through it to access the resort –- and nothing reminded us of it while there. It was us with nature –- and, as you know, that’s all the company I need.

Even after our somewhat frenzied days, we didn’t come close to exhausting the activities. Among those we ignored were fly fishing school and guided fishing excursions, float plane sightseeing rides, guided and on-your-own mountain biking, and river rafting. Oh, and there’s a fitness center, but we quickly concluded that it offered a poor substitute for nature’s own vast workout station. Enough to keep you busy for a week or a weekend; of course, there’s always the option of just sitting by the fire…

Just a word on accommodations. Basic is the word -– although some have more upscale touches than others; I may have even spied a microwave. But some had less -– there are three yurts on the grounds, isolated constructs accessible by cross-country skis and snowmobiles, that made the cabins look four-star. Housing a cot, wood-burning stove, and a propane gas cooking area, the good news is that you didn’t have to walk TOO far to get to the outhouse. Ya’ gotta love it! As long as you don’t have to stay in one…

OffbeatTravel