If you are travelling to Eire forget the ‘tired and done it’ Dublin, travel north and savour a small city with a big punch. Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland is indeed an oft forgotten jewel set in the countryside of County of Down.

Belfast, the second safest city to visit in the world after Tokyo, is set on the Belfast Loch with the River Lagan bringing its lifeblood. It's roads and squares are set out on a grid pattern similar to New York and so easy to walk around. Each junction gives a new panorama to the viewer, often with a glimpse of the Black Hills as a backdrop.

Much has changed since Prince William of Orange set foot on the shores in 1690. The merchants from the early 1600’s traded with the Americas, followed by shipping and the linen trade, gave them the money to achieve the grand architectural style. Today Bushmills whiskey is a well known export.

Its maritime history is of note. The world famous Harland and Wolf shipyard (founded in 1862) were the proud builders of the ill fated Titanic. The area renamed the Titanic Quarter to the east of the Lagan is having mega money spent on redevelopment and in doing so will create a centre for recreation and living history. A hotel is to be built with the prow of the Titanic as an architectural feature. Within walking distance is the modern Odyssey entertainment centre with stage and cinemas. Many eateries vie for your attention. There is also W5 science centre, ideal for both children and adults on a rainy day.

A first day option is to take the open-topped red bus tour. The circular route takes two hours at a cost of Euro12. The well informed tour guide on board will give you an entertaining insight into Belfast. The trip travels through the Titanic Quarter and Stormont, the impressive building is now the seat of parliament of Northern Ireland. Then travel to the Falls Road and Shankill areas to view the street murals. These pieces of street art use the sides of buildings and walls to portray the political history of the two protagonists. They are now being preserved instead of being painted over because the tourist finds them such a draw.

Today the dividing wall between the two communities is still there but is called the peace wall. Perhaps in the future, like the Berlin Wall, it will come down.

The new buildings that replaced the bombed, sit comfortably alongside the old majestic ornate buildings many of which are being put to recreational use. The impressive City Hall is set at the heart of the city. Surrounding the green lawned square are commercial buildings and shopping centres.

The ‘troubles’ of the 70 and 80’s did much to portray an image to the world of a war zone, which indeed it was. But never has a city excelled so much in reinventing itself. Peace has brought a modern vision to all that live here and now a city has emerged that seems to have it all.

The four star Europa Hotel bombed and closed 28 times is now a modern, friendly central hotel and ideal as a base to explore. It has its own well documented history. There is a special Clinton stateroom where the American president stayed along with many well known celebrities and newspaper and TV correspondents.

Directly opposite are the famous public bars The Crown Liquor Store and Robinson’s. Their ornate interiors will draw you there but often a sup of beer will be taken too. Besides these there are alleys to explore filled with bars and local pubs.

The older Cathedral Quarter hosts hip bars and restaurants for a nightlife to rival Temple Bar in Dublin. Try out the Vaudeville Cafe, a stunning old banking hall converted to host bar, live music and good food. The mirrored room with a dome and chandeliers are furnished in red and gold. Palms add to the over the top theme but it is a great party venue. The local people if you can understand the broad Ulster Scott dialect are welcoming friendly and very talkative. The wicked sense of humour obviously helped them endure the troubles. The University area where the university building founded in 1862 is surrounded by cheap and cheerful watering holes and eateries to meet the student needs. The Botanic Gardens and palm house are close by.

The city offers something for everyone besides the night time partying. Try the Red Bus tour, a Lagan cruise, a guided walk pub tour, a round of golf, a visit to the living Ulster folk museum or the Botanic gardens. Or visit Belfast Castle and zoo on Cave Hill for a day with a beautiful view of Belfast Lough thrown in for free.

A whole day can be whittled away in the Ulster Museum set within the Botanic gardens. A wonderful archive exists on the history. The linen and other industries are well displayed.

The chef Ian Rankin is leading a food renaissance. Also Dean’s restaurants provide top quality food.

Well know people including George Best, Alex Higgins, C W Lewis, Van Morrison and Eamonn Holmes hail from here.

For the shopperholics Belfast attracts stars from London and elsewhere as the locals have money and style. This has attracted designer boutiques that are all in one small area. The Victoria Centre being the most recent addition to pull on those purse strings.

If you have the time, Belfast becomes a base for more extensive touring. Travel along the Down coastline to Strangford Loch. A walking tour to the Mourne Mountains and its city of Newry are an option. Visit the Giant's Causeway and be awed by the Antrim Coastal route's scenery.

Two airports are serviced well by low cost airlines making this an accessible destination. Local bus, taxi and train transport is very well integrated and at a viable cost. Arrive at Dublin Airport and travel north by train or coach right into the centre just 2 hours away.

A small but beautifully formed city bursting with life. Belfast ‘sure it is’ as the locals say.

For more information
Visit GoToBelfast.com and VisitNorthernIreland.com

 

Read more about Belfast and Northern Ireland

• Belfast to Derry and the Giant's Causeway
• Northern Ireland: Rebounding after decades of strife

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Caz Crutchley is a freelance, British born travel writer residing on Malta in the centre of the Mediterranean for some years. This is an ideal base for her independent travel trips to many of the usual travel destinations. However, her love of venturing off the beaten track has helped her discover places and people who with their stories have enriched the travel experience. Through her travel writing she hopes to encourage other less adventurous travellers to broaden their travel horizons too.

© 2009

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