North Carolina's Coastal Gem: Beaufort southern Outer Banks

It's all in the pronunciation: when you’re in North Carolina it's Bow-fort.

Residents are understandably sensitive. The lesser known of two towns with the same moniker—in adjoining states no less—will politely, but firmly, correct you if you slip and refer to it as the South Carolina burg.

I was in town for the Beaufort Wine and Food Weekend , a five-day event with receptions, tastings and dinners. As festivals goes, this was a small-ish affair, charming, but limited. The best part of the weekend was Beer, Bubbles & BBQ, held under a tent at the Beaufort Historic Site downtown. Eating ‘cue, collards, beans and banana pudding, knocking back a cold one and tapping your toes to live bluegrass is good, honest fun.

Attractions: Things to See and Do

The area’s promoters have billed this remote area of the lower Outer Banks as The Crystal Coast, referring to the way the Atlantic water sparkles when sunlight hits the surface. Beaufort and the surrounding area are known for saltwater pursuits: superb fishing, unparalleled wreck diving and boating.

Without aid of binoculars, I spied two from the boat. While kayaking, I spotted plenty of snowy osprey and dolphins, while paddling inlets that open into the Atlantic Intercoastal Waterway.

On land, there are several worthy attractions. Fort Macon State Park saw Civil War triumph and tragedy, and was a strategic World War II site used to protect nearby facilities. The North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores features more than 3,000 specimens of North Carolina aquatic life and a touch-tank teaming with velvety stingrays.

The North Carolina Maritime Museum is the repository for artifacts discovered on the Queen Anne’s Revenge, the ship famously captained by the pirate Blackbeard.

From a double-decker bus slowly winding its way through the tree-lined streets of restored colonial homes in downtown Beaufort, I gained a sense of perspective thanks to the costumed guide who narrated points of interest. History comes poignantly alive at The Old Burying Ground, listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

I liked thoughtfully, silently walking among the graves—some vaulted and bricked to protect from wild animals and high waters, the earliest marked with seas shells—as the afternoon’s light faded to amber. Touchingly heaped with such trinkets as stuffed teddy bears, gloss, hairbrushes and plastic necklaces, the “girl buried in a barrel of rum” marks the resting place of a young Beaufort girl who perished at sea and was preserved in a keg. Azaleas in brilliant pink bloom temper the somber atmosphere.

Lodging and Food

Stay at the 36-room Inlet Inn and you’re within walking distance of downtown Beaufort’s attractions—and you won’t need designated driver. Ask for a water-facing room with a wood-burning fireplace.

There are plenty of dining options on the Crystal Coast. Folks beat a path to Amos Mosquito’s Swampside Café in Atlantic Beach for its sunset views and creative bar fare; though I usually eschew logoed merchandise, I liked the slightly sinister baseball caps embroidered with the blood-sucking insect. Bistro by the Sea, in Morehead City has silky she crab bisque, grouper and prime rib accompanied by live piano music.

The Culinary Institute of America-trained chef at The Beaufort Grocery Store offers tempting salads, sandwiches and desserts in a sweet little downtown cottage.

But my favorite spot of all was the newly opened Queen Anne’s Revenge, where locals and festival-goers were mixing it up with the kind of restrained good cheer that certain southern settlements encourage. This chic little spot has it all: waterfront location, living-room style seating, friendly servers and a tasty menu of small plates. And surprise—the east coast’s first wine station is here (not Boston or New York City or even Atlanta), so you can taste an array of wines by the glass. Here, my notes fail me, but I had a lovely time, solo but not lonesome.

Strolling the waterfront at evening’s end, I paused to admire the water under the moonlight. It did have a crystalline quality.

"This is the only place I know where you can see wild ponies and dolphins from the pier downtown," offered a gray-ponytailed man as he ambled past. He may or may not have been addressing his comment to me.

Not that it matters. I won’t forget how to pronounce this town’s name.