William J. Clinton Presidential Library

The 20,000-square foot Clinton Library has been dubbed the “front porch of Little Rock.” Although some wags have derisively likened the architecture to a mobile home, the building was conceived as a “bridge” that is cantilevered over the Arkansas River. The 30-acre grounds have spurred development in a formerly derelict part of town; the Rock Island Railroad Bridge will be converted to a pedestrian walkway. It boasts the largest archives of any presidential library, so plan to spend a couple of hours exploring flipping through notebooks of his daily schedule, exhibits that trace the eight-year Clinton legacy and the full scale replica of the Oval Office. Fancy a Clinton bobble head? Check out the Museum Store housed in its own building.

Central High School National Historic Site and the Little Rock Nine

Downtown’s River Market is Little Rock’s renovated shopping, dining and entertainment district; there’s even a twice-weekly Farmer’s Market and a 50-cent streetcar that runs the route. But for me, the most soul-stirring attraction—the second most popular in the city after the Clinton Library—is the Central High School National Historic Site. In 1957, the “Little Rock Nine,” nine courageous black students walked through an angry mob and defied armed troops to attend the high school of their choice. The case divided the city, closed public high schools for a year and commanded the world’s attention before finally reaching the Supreme Court. It symbolizes the commitment of the federal government to ending segregation.

Today, the stately, sprawling school looks bucolic. With a student body of about 2,400 (55% black, 45% white/other), it was ranked by Newsweek as the 20th best high school in the nation in 2006. Visitors cannot enter the school without advance permission, but can visit the visitor center, housed in a Mobil Gas Station across the street where reporters used to stand in line at the pay phone to call in stories of the standoff. A new visitor’s center will open in September 2007, commemorating the 50-year year anniversary of the Crisis at Central High.

Black history and Clinton history are, of course, intertwined. Little Rock Tours runs an excellent Black Heritage guided tour that includes sightseeing in the area formerly known as “Little Harlem,” along with Central High School.

Beyond Little Rock -- Hot Springs, Mountai View and more

Hot Springs, the nation’s first federally protected area, is still a popular resort destination and an easy day trip from Little Rock; it’s also where Clinton spent a good part of his boyhood. Named for its thermal springs, its well-preserved Victorian-era downtown is home to “Bathhouse Row,” antique shops and restaurants. Horseracing enthusiasts can visit Oaklawn, in its 103rd year of operation and open every day of the year save Christmas.

Arkansas is the smallest state west of Mississippi, but it has a rich heritage. Further afield—about an hour and a half from Little Rock, is the rustic town of Mountain View with its limestone bluffs and hardwood forests. The town is home to the Ozark Folk Center, the only one in the country dedicated to preserving Southern traditional culture, music and crafts. Strolling the grounds and talking to the artisans is like experiencing a living slice of American history. Basket weaver Sharon Fernimen explains, “You can’t be a perfectionist and a basket weaver,” as her hands coax white oak and pine straw into a functional work of art. There’s also blacksmithing, silversmithing, broom making, candle making, quilting, tintype photography, pottery and much more to witness.

If any of the crafts ignite the latent artisan in you, sign up for a hands-on workshop. And don’t miss a hearty meal at the Skillet Restaurant: fried chicken, fresh green beans, mashed potatoes and gravy and cobbler served family-style.

Stay at the country-cute Pinewood Cabins and you’ll be just steps away from the musical action at Courthouse Square on summer nights. That’s when “porch pickers” fill the night air with the sweet sounds of bluegrass, country and folk from perches on the square’s storefronts while the audience listens from folding chairs. Licking a black walnut ice cream cone, I listened, rapt, as a mother-daughter duo sat on the tailgate of a red pickup, playing a guitar and banjo and singing sweetly. I understood why Clinton has such a love affair with the state.