This is Alaska, the youngest and biggest state in all the nation yet the least populated. "Wide open and empty" is how Francis Donal from the UK described it. "Great scenery and fresh air" says his wife, of America's 49th state, which attained membership in the Union in 1959. And they're right. In this case, size really does have a lot to offer. Alaska is in fact so big it has its own time zone, being an hour behind Pacific Standard Time. And as well as being 1/6 the size of all the lower 48 put together, it also has more coastline than the rest of the states combined.

The history of the state and its largest city is also fascinating. The best place to find out more is at the Anchorage Museum of History and Art , Alaska's largest museum and one of the 10 most visited attractions in the state. Over 10,000 years of Alaskan history is showcased, including how Alaskan Natives survived and how the Europeans and Russians explored the area. One fascinating exhibit is on the Alaskan railroad, a tribute to the work and determination of the many who put this engineering feat together, right up to the golden spike being put in by President Harding in 1923. Check out authetic poineer and Native dwelling displays and an actual section of the Alaksa pipeline.

Cruising the Glaciers

Of course Anchorage is famous for its many glaciers. John Muir, the American naturalist, back in the 1800s, described his experience thus: "This is my first view of such solitude, and magnificence, such ice and snow newborn ... mysterious, yet wonderful" he wrote. If you want to experience mysterious yet wonderful glaciers, just as he did, then check out the 26 Glacier Cruise. The cruise ship has been going for over 20 years and has over 340 passengers on board at any one time. "It's different and beautiful here. Every day," says Captain Nina Himmelwright, who has spent 7 seasons on the boat. And who can argue with her?

The most popular of the 26 glaciers on the tour is undoubtedly the Surprise glacier, just for the rumbling, eery noises that eminate from it. Bits of ice break off and drop spectacularly into the sea in front of you. The floats that result can exist as ice for days at a time. Surprise Glacier is 1 mile wide and 275 feet high. These waters are the northernmost salt water in North America yet surprisingly they never freeze.

Surprising too, is the fact that there are actually 100,000 glaciers in Alaska yet only just over ¼ of them have names. Once glacier in Alaska, the Malaspina Glacier in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, is larger than Rhode Island. That's one enormous piece of ice!

The cruise boat runs seasonally until September 30th. "I think it is the best single day experience in Alaska. You get the cruise experience but get to go home to your own bed at night," says Marsha Barton, Marketing Manager.

Among the wildlife you'll see on the tour are playful sea otters, whale, bald eagles and kittiwake. Bald eages are protected in the rest of America but here in Alaska they are found in abundance, to the tune of 7,000 plus. Prince William Sound is actually home to over 200 species of birds, including bald eagle, arctic tern, gulls and the common loon.

And when it comes to the most common tourist question, it is, perhaps not surprisingly, "When do the whales come out?" In response, the staff will unequivocally guarantee that you will see ...glaciers. Alas, the whales can't be predicted, so it's just a bonus if you see one. That's just the way nature is. You do get to see all three kinds of glacier, so that's a nice compensation: alpine or hanging, piedmont, and incredible tidewater glaciers await you, some of the latter rising 300 feet above the water.

The 135 mile tour includes narration on the history of the daring natives who ventured into the Sound in the past. Many of the glaciers were named by the Harriman Expedition over 100 years ago. Prince William Sound, for example, was named by British navigator, Captain James Cook, for William Henry who later became King William IV of England. Cook is himself commemorated with a statue close to downtown Anchorage.

Another place to spot a glacier is at Portage lake which is surrounded by the Chugach and Kanai mountains. Check out the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center which shows the 20 minute film, "Voices from the Ice," every half hour. It's fascinating. Don't be surprised to see icebergs floating on the lake here too, right outside the visitor's center door--they regularly just drop off the Portage Glacier.

Wildlife

And of course apart from glaciers, people come to Anchorage to see the wildlife. One sure way to see bears, for instance, is at the Conservation Center, the only center of its kind in Alaska. This is a Must-See sight. Any bear you see, however, may not be healthy-- in fact it's likely to be a rescued or rehabilitated bear. The center is a nonprofit organization that takes cares of orphaned and injured animals.

These could include moose, brown bears, black bears, porcupine, elk, bison, caribou, musk ox, and birds of prey. Most of them simply cannot surive in the wild. Just take one of the residents -- Seymour, for instance. Seymour was an orphaned moose calf who wandered into a family yard. The family looked after him for a year but called officials when he became a threat to children in the area. Seymour has become so accustomed to humans, he can no longer fend for himself in the wild. As a result, he's lived at the center since 1997 and has actually appeared in nature shows and movies. The center has its own celebrity in him, but alas, he cannot sign autographs.

Seymour shares the Center with two great-horned owls, both of whom were the victims of gunshot wounds and are now unable to fly. Adonis, the bald eagle, is also the victim of a gunshot wound and his wing needed full amputation.

The caribou you'll see at the Center were rescued from Alaskan islands which were becoming overpopulated. To prevent starvation, some caribou were removed and brought here. It's interesting to note that caribou are the only species of deer in which both male and female grow antlers. And there are actually more caribou than there are people in Alaska.

Searching for Aurora Borealis: Northern Lights

One thing those people like to do, on clear and frosty nights, is to look for the aurora borealis, or nothern lights. The lights come about because ionized gas particles increase their speed and density while stirring in the Earth's magnetic field. Curtains of light shimmer in brilliant colors. Not surprisingly, in the old days people thought these lights were an omen from the gods and a sign of terrible things to come.

If you don't get to see them "live" or just don't want to brave such cold weather, then check out the Alaska Center for the Performing Arts where you can see 25 years worth of rare images in a 40 minute show set to music.

And More

And if you think that being in Anchorage means you're miles from the countryside, then think again. Book yourself onto a horseride and within minutes of leaving town, you'll be riding in some of the best countryside and scenery around. The four-hour horse ride with Turnagain Trails will take you through the backcountry of Chugach State Park, a 495,000 acre wilderness on the edge of Anchorage that serves as a backyard playground for residents and visitors alike. Enjoy sweeping views of the Alaska Range, Cook Inlet, Mt. Susitna (the "Sleeping Lady") and Denali (Mt. McKinley). Spruce woods and mountain hemlock along the trail give way to open tundra and jewel-like alpine lakes. Moose, wild sheep and bears are frequently sighted during this horseback riding adventure.

On your visit around town, don't forget to stop off at the Earthquake Park which commemorates the biggest earthquake on American soil and which happened right here in Anchorage. The 1964 earthquake on Good Friday reached 9.20 on the Richter scale, while the 55 aftershocks lasted all weekend and the 40 foot tsunami wave that followed forever changed the towns of Valdez and Seward. A peaceful park that overlooks the bay now commemorates the events. You might be surprised to know that it's Alaska, not California, that has more earthquakes than any other state.

Fans of law enforcement will love the Law Enforcement Museum displaying historic police equipment, a submachine gun, and a restored 1952 Hudson Hornet Patrol Car. Being a law enforcement agent in a state that has a small population of less than three quarters of a million people, spread out over more than half a million square miles, is a challenge indeed. This is one of the most unusual, rugged and far-flung jurisdictions under the American flag. Admission to the museum is free but check out their souvenirs. This is the only place you can get an Anchorage State Troopers T-shirt (and impress your friends). As soon as you walk in, though, look for the mug shot of Steve McQueen who was driving dangerously while drunk. Knowing this may also impress your friends.

From life in the spotlight, to life that went on quietly beforehand, check out the Alaska Native Heritage Center, just 10 minutes from downtown. Life for Alaska's 11 distinct Native cultures, who lived from the land and sea, is showcased. You can wander through native village sites and read about the traditional lifestyles while Alaska Native youths share stories about early village life. On stage inside the main building--the "Gathering Place"--you'll be treated to drums, drama, dance and storytelling and see native costumes, all while artisans show and sell their work.

If you fancy trying some fishing just like those natives used to do as a way of life, you can try your luck at Bird Creek on the road to Seaward. Here you can join the local people fishing for salmon. Fishing for those with a licence is 3 fish a day.

From the river to the lake, check out Lake Hood, the busiest seaplane base in the world. With over 87,000 take-off and landings per year, you can watch them firsthand from the observation deck. In the onsite museum Alaska Aviation Heritage Museum aviation buffs will find rare aircraft being restored. Alternatively, try your skills with the flight simulator.

Alaskans are not without their sense of humor. One sign you'll notice off the main street is a plaque that says: "In 1897 in this place, nothing happened".

One sure place to find something that IS happening, is at the Alaska Zoo. Native species at the zoo include a polar bear, brown bears, a rare glacier black bear, moose and many raptor species. There are also exotic creatures on view. The zoo has been around for more than 30 years and boasts nearly 100 mammals and birds.

While much of the rest of the lower 48 is sweltering in blistering heat, you'll be pleased to know that the temperatures in Anchorage reach a comfortable 60 degrees. And of course this is where you'll find those long lazy summer light nights where the sun sets at 11.30 pm and rises at 4.30am.

Alaska has been described as more than a state-it's more like a state of mind. It has beauty and wilderness unsurpassed. It has untamed mountains, glaciers, rugged terrain and soaring eagles. This is Alaska and this is Anchorage. Go discover them both.

Oh, and that moose? Enjoy the experience of watching one of nature's most regal creatures cross in front of you. He knows you're too small to be any bother to him. And in any case, this is Alaska, and he knows-- moose have the right of way.