Scotty’s Dive Centre is a PADI five-star training center and National Geographic Dive Center, located at the five-star, family-friendly Shangri-La Mactan Resort & Spa in Cebu. The island nation has some of the world’s best and least crowded dive sites and a one-on-one guide/guest ratio that delivers a personalized experience. I’ve come to get wet, eat well and enjoy spa treatments in luxury accommodations. The Philippines delivers—in spades—on all counts.

Chi Spa is gorgeous, modeled after a Himalayan village with temple-like architecture bathed in amber tones. Incense perfumes the air. Chi refers to life force, and after a brief questionnaire determines my element (earth), I am led to a private garden suite. Rady, my therapist, begins a two and a half hour treatment, the tropical linen and leaf wrap and massage, by slathering my body with a concoction of fresh mango, papaya, pineapple, aloe vera, honey and yogurt—ideal for sunburned bodies. I am then wrapped in fresh banana leaves. After a shower, her intuitive hands perform a Thai massage, working out unseen knots. By the time we are finished, night has fallen and candles illuminate the verdant pathways. After pausing at the gorgeous boutique to buy a few items from Tibet and Nepal, I head to the Presidential Suite with its panoramic views (the resort runs at near full occupancy, which works in my favor this weekend). Dinner at the Cowrie Cove, by the water’s edge, includes grilled lobster and New Zealand sauvignon blanc and fireworks bursting overhead, an onsite celebration of a corporate gathering.

Amanpulo, recently named the best Asian beach resort in the world by Conde Nast Traveler, makes for a plush base to explore the clear waters and pristine coral of Palawan. Located 225 miles south of Manila, discriminating guests arrive to this private island by chartered plane, complete with woven palm hand fans and chilled water in the seat pockets. Staffers greet the plane’s arrival standing next to golf carts, that double as personal transporation. After being draped in a fragrant jasmine sampaguita (lei), my personal guest assistant, Manuel, whisks me to my casita. Filipino architect Bobby Manosa has married traditional elements—pebble washed walls, coconut shell furnishings, a rattan headboard, cadiz (shell) lighting—with modern amenities in the spacious villas. A hammock is positioned to take advantage of the water’s view; thick vegetation provides privacy. After walking the white sand beach, I hop in my golf cart and head for the Five Star PADI Gold Palm Resort dive shop.

Bordered by the Sulu and South China Seas, Palawan boasts rich marine biodiversity and visibility of 100 feet. The calm, glass-like waters are ideal for both novice and expert divers. There are three of us on board for the short boat ride to Casita 29: a 72-year Brit, a 15-year old French boy and me, along with dive masters Nigel, Conrad and Jess. A drift dive with a gradual drop-off allows us to appreciate tuna, jacks, enormous black sea slugs, table coral, giant fans, turtles, blue starfish and lots of colorful tropical fish. As is my practice, I follow up my dive with a massage, this one expertly delivered by Shy in the privacy of my room. The lemongrass, lavender and mandarin oil smells divine; at my request, she bottles some for me to take home.

Night descends quickly, cloaking the island in darkness and silence. I follow the candlelight to a decadent dinner on the beach: prawn cocktail, Vietnamese spring rolls, grilled lobster, banana leaf-wrapped lapu lapu (grouper) with mango salsa and sweet chili sauces. There is fresh fruit for dessert. I am awakened the following morning by a sharp-pitched cry, like a child in distress. According to the staffer who brings my traditional Filipino breakfast of arroz caldo, rice porridge with sautéed chicken, ginger and spring onions and pan de sel bread with calmansi (lime) marmalade, it is the “yellow bird.” It swoops by, in flashes of yellow, black and red, but I cannot ever snap a picture.

Another day, another island—the Philippines has more than 7,100. After a day tour of the Hershey’s kisses-shaped Chocolate Hills (they are green during rainy season) and a peek at the tarsier, the world’s smallest primate (which looks like a cross between a rat and monkey, with enormous green-yellow eyes), I check into Eskaya Beach Resort & Spa on Panglao island at the southern tip of Bohol. Open just five months when I visit, it aims for Amanpulo-level service and exclusivity. My detached villa faces the Mindanao Sea, has a private pool, an outdoor rain shower and bathtub scattered with jasmine flowers. After a spectacular papaya-colored sunset, I enjoy dinner by the resort’s infinity pool, singing along with the guitarists covering John Denver and Beatles songs and chatting with a Brazilian mom and her two kids. Back in my suite, the bed is draped with a wedding-like confection of white mosquito netting. Stars are scattered across the sky. I take a skinny dip in inky privacy.

I head for nearby Alona Beach and Seaquest Diving. Dive master Nelson gets me outfitted for our dive and we hop in the boat along with a twenty something couple from Germany and head for BBC (Bohol Beach Club). Underwater, there are cuttlefish, sea cucumbers, shrimp, parrot fish and nudi branch among the coral formations. I stop at Bohol Bee Farm, for an organic lunch buffet featuring edible flower salad, honey glazed chicken, grilled marlin organic red rice and squash muffins, washing it down with lemongrass iced tea and locally produced corn coffee. Back in my suite at Eskaya, Eden gives me a hilot, a traditional healing massage technique, using firm finger pressure on key points. It’s another perfect day—both below and above water.

If You Go
The best time to visit the Philippines is during the cool, dry season from November-February. American citizens do not need a visa. Philippine Airlines offers direct flights to Manila from Los Angeles and San Francisco. Tour operator Ine Faustino of CCT. 168, can help you with on-ground arrangements; email: ine_faustino@hotmail.com.

---

A former Navy brat who traveled and lived abroad extensively, Suzanne Wright is a fulltime, freelance writer based in Atlanta. She is a member of NATJA, and ASJA, and has written numerous travel, food and decor features for numerous international, national and regional publications. Her articles have appeared in Elite Traveler, Wine & Spirits, Veranda, Atlanta Magazine, The Tennessean, Atlanta Homes & Lifestyles, Piedmont Review, Charlotte Place, Where, On Magazine and others. A suitcase is always packed and her passport always up to date.