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Mass MoCA (Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art)

We couldn't wait to get to Mass MoCA. We have a weakness for old buildings -of any kind. Even old factory buildings, especially if they go back far enough. And Mass MoCA is 13 acres of renovated 19th century factory buildings, their bricked courtyards and narrow passageways overlooking a slow moving river.

Listed on the National Historic Register, the 27 buildings form a labyrinth of brick and stone. Originally built in 1872, the site was purchased by the Sprague Electric Company in 1942. At its peak, it was the world's leading producer of electronic components, employing over 4,000 people. It closed in 1986 and languished until Mass MoCA filled it with art.

We made the trip to North Adams just to see MoCA. And it was worth it. We happily wandered around for hours alternating fascinated by the art and the architecture. Even the bathrooms are worth visiting, maintaining the gritty environment (but spotlessly clean. The café offers reasonably priced and tasty food. The gift shop is happily low-key.

But go for the art. Contemporary art is not easily described, or universally loved. As we were wandering around exclaiming about the art and the buildings one of the maintenance staff expressed some surprise at our enthusiasm. "Some folks get upset and want their money back," she observed. Offbeattravel can only conclude they weren't prepared for contemporary art. It isn't pretty paintings hung on walls. It isn't neat marble sculptures that you can look at, enjoy, and forget. Contemporary art is interactive, challenging. It dares the participant to think about and even perhaps change beliefs, perceptions, understanding. Because its art isn't pat and does require reflection, MoCA thoughtfully offers description cards (art cards) which are made possible by foundation grants and gifts.

Some Highlights From a Previous Exhibit - Unnatural Science
Uberorgan is described by its creator, Tim Hawkinson, as a giant self-playing reed organ. It sounds a bit like a bagpipe, but its huge inflated bags, which look a lot like internal body organs. The installation is huge, but the room is even larger, allowing you to walk through and around the whimsical creation. Even though the Unnatural Science has closed, Uberorgan is still part of the gallery exhibit.

In Long Shadows: Henry Perkins and the Eugenics Survey of Vermont artist Michael Oatman constructed a period room that depicts the style and substance of the movement which sought to save the country from degeneracy of immigrants. No detail is too small to escape inclusion into the exhibit. Not only are there wall charts, books, desk, an old typewriter, microscope and slides, even dust appears to have been brought in to add to the feel. It is complemented by a videotape of a man providing a lecture on eugenics, with statistics about how we would soon be overrun by undesirable aliens. Creepy, frightening, even horrifying. We couldn't help but remember that our own ancestors had once been classed as less-than-desirable potential immigrants.

Gary Schenider's obsession with his own genetic material makes for a fascinating and microscopic look at what makes us the same, and different from one another. There are finger prints, a retinal scan, dental x-rays and his chromosomes, as well as his sperm.

One last description, upside down trees. trees.JPG - 38829 BytesYes, Natalie Jeremijenko has planted trees in pots that were hung so the soil is on top and the tree themselves, well, they point towards the ground, in defiance of everything we know about growing things. Will their branches gradually turn towards the sun? Probably. Growing things usually do grow towards the light, the sun, the sky.

MoCA also provides for the kids too. Kidspace is a collaborative project with the Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute, the Williams College Museum of Art, and of course, Mass MoCA. It goes way beyond amusing children. Adults will love it, too.

More Than Just Exhibits
Mass MoCA screens movies, and stages events and lectures. It's a cultural center for people who like quirky and cutting edge. And, of course, that's offbeattravel. We really, really wish we lived near by.

How does offbeattravel rate Mass MoCA? It's world class, excellent, thought-provoking without being pretentious. ANd while you're in town, enjoy a visit to North Adams.

More information
MASS MoCA
87 Marshall Street
North Adams, MA
413 664-4481

© 2001

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